Ray 10 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 Has anyone on this forum carried out the 1" nose drop that the trans am race cars in 69/70 had. I am curious to see how it was done. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 It's called a "Shelby Drop" and there are dozens here on the site that have done it. Just Google "Shelby Drop" and you will find templates and methods.......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 I seem to recall hearing that the Boss Trans Am cars actually had the frame and/or front fenders sectioned somehow and tilted down at a different degree, maybe that is what he is reffering to? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 I think it was one of the 69 trans am cars being set up to run at daytona. IIRC, the radiator support was shortened and the side aprons were modified in order to angle the fenders & hood down at the front. The aft edge of the fenders were notched and the fenders tilted slightly from the top and overlapped the lower rockers about an inch or so. I have a picture somewhere, in a book I believe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silverjade 35 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 "I seem to recall hearing that the Boss Trans Am cars actually had the frame and/or front fenders sectioned somehow and tilted down at a different degree, maybe that is what he is reffering to?" Yes my brain says that Shelby Drop didn't change body stance, but Trans Am drop does. Can't remember where I read this,... JIM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silverjade 35 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 Is it O.K. to put in links to other sites? http://www.thecarsource.com/shelby/transam69.html This talks of a 3 inch body drop after significant suspension changes. JIM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
970fizz 19 Report post Posted November 21, 2013 (edited) It's a pie shape cute done from the core support to the shock towers. Kar Kraft did it to the 1969 trans am mustangs ( team Shelby, bud Moore, smoky yunick, Allen moffat and probably a few more cars) There is a few people on boss302.com that have done it to build Vintage racing mustangs. It looks like a tough modification to do. Edited November 21, 2013 by 970fizz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray 10 Report post Posted November 22, 2013 Thanks for the reply's guys, yes it is the pie shaped cut in the inner fenders I was refering to. I have seen it done once and in his blog he says there are more than one way to do it so I wanted to look at alternatives although the way this has been done looks pretty good, here is a link if anyone wants a look at what I am talking about. https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray 10 Report post Posted November 29, 2013 So Is anyone aware of alternative methods??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miketyler 15 Report post Posted November 29, 2013 Wow - I had never heard of this. It's a pretty subtle drop though isn't it? Doesn't look like it would be that hard to do but I would bet it gets more complicated with how the front end fits together. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted November 29, 2013 Looks like a cool and not so difficult mod. So I take it that the vehicle fender/door gap is not affected? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray 10 Report post Posted November 30, 2013 If you have a look at a Real Trans am race car from back in the day, like Allan Moffats, you will see how much lower they sat at the front. A lot is due to suspension mods but a significant amount is due to this nose drop. On a road car you can only lower the suspension so far before you start hitting speed humps etc so I thought this might be way to get that low stance without hitting everything. I might try this on my next project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray 10 Report post Posted November 30, 2013 The way this guy has done the drop doesn't seem to have affected door gaps etc but it sure looks good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TX427Cobra 19 Report post Posted December 9, 2013 I just did it on my '69 TA clone racer. I copied that yellow car above, which is here in Houston as well. Its not too hard if you can weld. Here are his pics: https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551 I'll try and post pics when my car gets rolled out into daylight. Right now I am installing the rear bulkhead panel and rear roll cage legs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ray 10 Report post Posted December 10, 2013 Hi TX427Cobra, I for one would love to see progress photos when you get a chance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 10, 2013 I just did it on my '69 TA clone racer. I copied that yellow car above, which is here in Houston as well. Its not too hard if you can weld. Here are his pics: https://1970mustangvintageracer.shutterfly.com/551 I'll try and post pics when my car gets rolled out into daylight. Right now I am installing the rear bulkhead panel and rear roll cage legs. Dude, post up the roll bar tab pics! Pleeese :) Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TX427Cobra 19 Report post Posted December 12, 2013 Hi TX427Cobra, I for one would love to see progress photos when you get a chance Will get some up this weekend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 13, 2013 This looks like it might be fun to do, and different. Leave it up to racers to figure this sort of stuff out, I certainly would have never came up with it. Need new front aprons and a radiator support anyway, why not cut up new parts before they are installed, just about have myself talked into it...:hammer: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TX427Cobra 19 Report post Posted December 31, 2013 Leave it up to racers to figure this sort of stuff out, I certainly would have never came up with it. ...:hammer: Here is the side panel welded back in even with the top of the shock tower. Notice in the background on the vertical fender edge the primered area....this is where the barb is removed and re-welded allowing the fender to come down. Second pic shows the stance with the roughed-in flared front fender. Stance is 24" from ground up to center of flare lip. First attempt at flaring.....amazing what you can do if you are forced. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted December 31, 2013 Nice! LOVE the Mini Lite wheels, along with the flairs, looks like you've played with some metal before. When you sectioned the fender (primered area) to get them to fit, did it "pooch" the fender out a little in the wheel well area? Looks like there is quite a bit of room since you've done the flair also. 24", Dang! I like it even more! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TX427Cobra 19 Report post Posted December 31, 2013 Nice! LOVE the Mini Lite wheels, along with the flairs, looks like you've played with some metal before. Actually, my only prior experience was last week when I did this as a test on a partial rear quarter. Before this I didn't even own a body hammer: When you sectioned the fender (primered area) to get them to fit, did it "pooch" the fender out a little in the wheel well area? Looks like there is quite a bit of room since you've done the flair also. No, the nose drop did not cause any pooch, though I had expected it would. The flaring has created more than ample room for turns at speed under compression without rubbing. I am now beginning to work on the final edge shape and surface. Amazingly, using the hammer and dolly I almost have it where I can't feel any imperfections in the surface. The quarter panel above was smooth as glass. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 31, 2013 Dang, you got skills! Nice work. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TX427Cobra 19 Report post Posted December 31, 2013 The rear flares were a combination of a 5/16" outer rod and an insert I cut after some measuring and calculating arcs. The end result is a flare that feels like it has a rolled lip but doesn't. It was harder to setup and design the arcs and the rods than to flare the front. Wish I had it to do over knowing what I know now (that I have Michael Angelo flaring talent), I'd flip the car over on a rotisserie and I think I could flare the rears with 6-8 hours on each. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
latoracing 256 Report post Posted January 3, 2014 TX427Cobra, Have you stuck your radiator back in to see if it fits? Didn't know if 1" made a whole lot of difference in how it would fit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TX427Cobra 19 Report post Posted January 6, 2014 TX427Cobra, Have you stuck your radiator back in to see if it fits? Didn't know if 1" made a whole lot of difference in how it would fit. This car will have a 302 Boss racing engine stuffed in it so the stock radiator isn't going back in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites