Full shock tower & frame-rail

[jmlay 80]

Has anyone installed a full shock tower, frame-rail & apron assembly, pre-assembled as in the pictures below? If so would it be possible to post or e-mail more detailed pictures of the assembly, especially the shock tower reinforcements?

 

 

[maxum96 32]

Yup, I did all new steel from the firewall forward. Unfortunately I don't really have any pictures showing the work other than these two,

 

Before

 

 

 

After

 

 

 

 

The second picture in your post is not for a 69-70 Mustang. I believe that's for a 65-66. The shock tower reinforcement on the aftermarket assembly for the 69-70 is the big block style with the rap around brace.

Edited November 17, 2013 by maxum96

[manley 13]

Hey Maxum, I've always been skeptical in regards to how well the pieces are aligned when they come pre-assembled like that. Did you notice any poor assembly or alignment issues? The individual pieces I bought and used were not perfect by any means.

[jmlay 80]

Maxum,

 

Thanks for replying. I found your pictures right after I posted this, the first 2 at least. Both pictures are 69/70 the second is odd because it shows the outside no the inside, I had to look at it twice also.

 

I have the same questions as Mike Manley. Do they fit well? Did you have any difficulties installing? When installing how did you insure the car was "square"? I have thought about tacking them in & taking the car to a frame machine to make sure it is strait & square before final welding.

 

How do the wrap around braces compare to the Ford originals?

 

Thanks,

[Wycked69 20]

Like Maxum96, I too installed the dynacorn assemblies on both sides of my brothers 69. They surprised me how well the fit and were put together. The only negative thing I can say is where it meets the firewall we had to do a little massaging and aside from removing many spotweld burrs they had (as a result of poorly set spot weld tips). The quality was quite good. I would not hesistate to use them again. As maxum96 indicated, they do have the wrap around shock tower reinforcement already added (big block style) which is a plus.

 

Again, fit and dimensionally they were pretty good.

[jmlay 80]

Maxium,

 

I went back into your hubgarage & found the pictures were higher resolution than shown, click on the picture a second time & you may see the original resolution. If the picture was dark I was able to lighten it enough to see the detail I was seeking. The big block supports on my R code are 1/8" or more. Looking at your pictures the reproductions look like they could be 1/8" as well. Would you mind measuring & reporting back?

 

http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96/vehicles/31304

[maxum96 32]

The aftermarket big block shocktowers use the same thickness steel as the originals, if not slightly thicker. I took lots of measurements before cutting off my old steel and welding the new steel on. I also used my export brace and the crossmember under the engine to help ensure I had the front end on square. I didn't have the factory assembly manual when I did my steel work. It would have helped out with the correct measurements.

 

They fit pretty well. Some minor tweaking here and there to get them to fit correctly. Not bragging on my workmanship, but I think the engine compartment came out good and you'd be hard pressed to tell it's been replaced unless you were some ninja expert show judge on Mustangs. And it was the first time I'd ever done steel work on a car. Just take your time and take lots of measurements and good quality digital photos. I used the photos a ton when putting the car back together to make sure I had things looking original.

[jmlay 80]

Thanks for the info.

[jmlay 80]

Wycked69,

 

When you "massaged" where the rail & the firewall meet, did this include the outer rail on the on the driver side where it meets the TQ box? My rail needs move back roughly a 1/4 in order for the rear apron to contact the firewall and my overall measurement between the firewall & the radiator support.

 

I will be cutting the 90deg where it meets the inner TQ box & moving it 1/4" in the morning.

 

Thanks,

[Rsanter 152]

I have done a few but always with original parts, never the repo stuff

It is a lot of work but you measure 10 times and weld once and you can get through it.

One tip is if there are areas where you can't get clamps in or around you can use pop rivits or self taping screws to help hold things together. Then do your welding, remove the screw or rivit and weld,up the hole

 

Bob

[jmlay 80]

I agree you can not measure enough, this is how I know it needs to move another 1/4". Also to note at the radiator support it is a slightly taller than the ford original. Regardless of original parts or reproduction you are fighting manufacturing tolerances of the car & the parts. Overall I am happy with the fit. I m curious to hear the experiences others have had with the full framerail/apron assemblies.

[Rcodenewf 44]

I too did as the others here. I installed the one piece heavy export brace as well as the the cross brace under the framerails. This helped immensely.

 

At the front i used the screw type jackstands used to level out trailers as they have infinite adjustment.

 

Lots and lots of clamps and some clecos and sheetmetal screws.

 

Measure diagonally, front to back and level out the car initially and put an accurate straightedge on the floor to measure up from.

 

Prior to cutting mine out i measured numerous points and drew a diagram.

Measure between the sides of the framerails at several points and take a measurement between the two bolt holes where the motor mounts drop down.

 

As suggested by the others take lots of measurements and photos prior to removal.

The part is made fairly well and i did have to hammer / dolly the lip where it comes in contact with the firewall. Other than that....as maxum96 says it's pretty hard to tell it was replaced.

 

Regards....John

[fvike 173]

I've done it also, there's a couple of pictures in my build thread.

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=12219&page=11

 

I didn't do it myself but had a collision shop do it since mt car needed jigging too. So everething was installed with the car in the jig.

[jmlay 80]

Fvike,

 

I have reviewed your a couple of time recently. Great work going on there.

[jmlay 80]

I'm happy I tackled the driver side first. Today I removed the passenger side & fit the replacement. As can bee seen in the picture I am unable slide it back far enough to attach the apron to the firewall. 1/2" to long between the shock tower & the firewall. Guess I will get the clippers out and give it a trim also.

 

Just to verify my measurement would someone, with original frame rails, aprons & radiator support, break out their tape measure from the cowl, just above the pinch weld, to the front of the radiator support?

 

Thanks,

[RPM 1,190]

I'm not sure which pinch weld you speak of. I measured from the face of the cowl to the front edge of the radiator support which on my stock car is 43-3/8".

 

 

 

 

 

Bob

[jmlay 80]

RPM,

 

I was not sure if I had communicated my request clearly but you nailed it. Looks to be 43 7/16 - 43 1/2", depending on viewing angle. That verifies my measurements as 43 1/2". Thanks for taking the time and effort!!!

[RPM 1,190]

The camera angle makes it look off. If other cars are like mine no two measurements are the same. From front to back, mine measures like it was made by crackheads... on a Friday. From the strut rod locations and the brackets to the leaf spring mounting holes in the game rails. Unbelievable. But I digress.

 

Bob

[jmlay 80]

I hear ya! Unfortunately if I use the Taiwanese manufactures assembly as is I would have a 3/4 in gap between the door & fender. Must be the metric conversion that is throwing it off. :-)