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wfridolfson

351w stroker

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the only area that needed clearenced on mine was around the oil pump. besides the stroke, i'm guessing the parts used will impact where and how much grinding needs done.

 

i'm running a 4.1" (418ci w/.030 overbore) with scat 6.2" h-beams in a 69 block.

Edited by BuckeyeDemon

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another FYI, some 4.1 crank applications can start having interference issues between the rods and the camshaft. mine fortunately didn't.

 

with the same top end, more cubic inches can result in a power curve that's shifted down in RPM. Thus the cam is designed to operate in a lower RPM range that can aid in perceived street-ability (i.e. curve shift from 2000 - 7000 rpm down to 500 to 5500 rpm).

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Streetability depends on the combo. It has nothing to do with the displacement.

 

Exactly!

 

 

Just to give you an idea of what you can run on the street. I run 11.5:1 compression, .622 lift/291 duration solid roller cam, AFR 205 heads, Victor Jr intake with a 830cfm double pumper on top. My combo is very streetable. I run the biggest aluminum crossflow radiator you can stuff under the hood of Mustang. No overheating issues. The compression is a little steep for daily street use as I have to dump a couple gallons of 100 octane in to keep the detonation away (I bought the engine built, but unfired). I would have kept it at 11:1 if I had built it.

 

Modern roller cams are awesome with what kind of profiles you can run on the street and still have nice driving and idling characteristics. 25-30 years ago my cam would have been a monster to run on the street (as a flat tappet cam). Not so anymore. I'm also in the neighborhood of 550hp-600hp. 25 years ago that would have been king of the street. Not so much anymore. Especially when you can drop by your local Ford dealer and pick up a brand GT-500 kicking out 662hp.

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