wfridolfson 10 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 anyone stroked a 351w? does the block need clearenced like a 302? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LEE 69 18 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 Mine has been stroked to 393, and love it, what do you mean by clearenced? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 (edited) the only area that needed clearenced on mine was around the oil pump. besides the stroke, i'm guessing the parts used will impact where and how much grinding needs done. i'm running a 4.1" (418ci w/.030 overbore) with scat 6.2" h-beams in a 69 block. Edited May 3, 2013 by BuckeyeDemon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 I believe anything over a 408w needs the bottom of the cylinder wall clearanced for the longer stroke. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rchappelear 28 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 stroking out my C9 block to a 418ci. I will let you know when its done! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969vert 55 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 had to grind around the oil pump for my old 393w Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 Only had to clearance the oil pump on my 351W stroker (393). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 3, 2013 Same for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wfridolfson 10 Report post Posted May 4, 2013 thanks for all the responses, how is the steetability with the 393, my 69 is basically a weekend warrior now and going to keep it that way, just want that horse power and torque, lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sportsroof69 13 Report post Posted May 4, 2013 Streetability depends on the combo. It has nothing to do with the displacement. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 4, 2013 another FYI, some 4.1 crank applications can start having interference issues between the rods and the camshaft. mine fortunately didn't. with the same top end, more cubic inches can result in a power curve that's shifted down in RPM. Thus the cam is designed to operate in a lower RPM range that can aid in perceived street-ability (i.e. curve shift from 2000 - 7000 rpm down to 500 to 5500 rpm). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted May 4, 2013 Streetability depends on the combo. It has nothing to do with the displacement. Exactly! Just to give you an idea of what you can run on the street. I run 11.5:1 compression, .622 lift/291 duration solid roller cam, AFR 205 heads, Victor Jr intake with a 830cfm double pumper on top. My combo is very streetable. I run the biggest aluminum crossflow radiator you can stuff under the hood of Mustang. No overheating issues. The compression is a little steep for daily street use as I have to dump a couple gallons of 100 octane in to keep the detonation away (I bought the engine built, but unfired). I would have kept it at 11:1 if I had built it. Modern roller cams are awesome with what kind of profiles you can run on the street and still have nice driving and idling characteristics. 25-30 years ago my cam would have been a monster to run on the street (as a flat tappet cam). Not so anymore. I'm also in the neighborhood of 550hp-600hp. 25 years ago that would have been king of the street. Not so much anymore. Especially when you can drop by your local Ford dealer and pick up a brand GT-500 kicking out 662hp. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites