waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 18, 2013 Hey Guys, I'll give you a little history first: I grew up around Mustangs since my Dad and uncles all had classics at somepoint. Some very cool ones as well. '69 Mach1, '71 Mach1, '68 302 Convertible, '78 Cobra. All of my buddies growing up had them too... mostly Fox's and SN95s. I finally got my first Mustang in 2007 - A black/black 2006 Mustang GT. After racing it, supercharging it, and doing every mod you can think of - they shut the track down out here, and I really stopped driving it. It wasn't the most street friendly car, and it just sat for months. That's when i decided to sell it in order to pay off my daily driver truck, and finance a restoration project! I searched all over the country for a rust free 69-70, and that proved to be harder than I thought. I finally found one in Texas. From the description it looked good, and after talking with the owner on the phone several times we settled on a deal. Turns out he used to do mustang restorations, and retired a few years ago. He had two cars left, and finished one for himself, and decided to sell the '70 before finishing it. The good news is that (according to him) the car was bought new in MO, but then spent a lot of time in Nevada before coming to TX. It's spent the last 20-years in Texas. Both quarters were professionally repaired and one was replaced. The rails and boxes are in amazing shape, and the car has never been hit or cut up. He had started to replace the floors but didn't do the finish welding yet. He just has them tacked in. The car was sprayed in primer a few years ago, and there is really only minimal surface rust on some spots. He has ALL the parts for the car except a decklid, carpet, and dash pad. Other than that he's sending me every single spare 69-70 spare part he has so I'll have the pick of the litter. He had a 351w block, but asking him to try to turn it with a socket on the crack proved impossible. Not knowing what I would get into, i passed on the motor which brought the price down a bit. He said it was originally an Auto, but somewhere in its life it was changed to a stick since it has the clutch pedal installed. It's also got an 8.8" rear. I'm super excited to start the work, and after some hiccups with the shipping companies, its finally going to be here this weekend! You can follow the shipping woes here: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=13296 Here's the pics he sent me... more to come as soon as I get them! The Marti Report shows that most of what the seller thought was true is in fact true! (good news) This was the last pics he took before it went on the trailer. He has it packed to high hell! LOL Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 18, 2013 This past Sunday, while searching my local craigslist, I found a guy about an hour away with a 351w in really good shape. He pulled it from a wrecked mustang, and although he didn't have it running, it turns over easily, and has fresh oil in the pan. The rockers, springs, pushrods, etc all look to be in good shape, and there's no sludge built up on the heads at all. I'm pretty sure it'll run without much of an issue, but I'll still go though it all as I put it together. He sold it without the Intake/Carb since he was going to use them on his car. I didn't really care to much about that since the price was right... $450! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted April 18, 2013 Nice score, and it already has the correct WP and pulleys for a '70. Are you going to leave the '75 up smog heads on it or do you plan to replace them with the '70 - '74 style heads, or even aluminum aftermarket? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
390mach1 49 Report post Posted April 18, 2013 Nice looking car! Let the fun begin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 18, 2013 (edited) Nice score, and it already has the correct WP and pulleys for a '70. Are you going to leave the '75 up smog heads on it or do you plan to replace them with the '70 - '74 style heads, or even aluminum aftermarket? Yeah - pretty good deal withe the pulleys & wp! (Although I have to check the WP so make sure its in good working order). I honestly didn't know there was a difference in the 351 heads. How do you tell them apart? I was looking at differences between 351 & 302 heads, and now I'm confused. This image shows that the 351s have an "L" shaped coolant port. Mine don't seem to have that. Could these be 302 heads on my car???? Anyway.. I may just leave them for now, and upgrade later or as the budget allows. I'd love to throw a set of Aluminum AFRs on there. My goal is to get the car up and running in the following order: Body/Paint Drivetrain Interior Trim Once all that is done - I'll go back and upgrade bits as needed. Edited April 18, 2013 by waketek516 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 19, 2013 Okay... I found lots of info today on my motor! This is my Engine Casting Number... D9AE And this is the decoding charts for Ford Motors First Character Year C=1960 D=1970 E=1980 F=1990 etc. Second Character Year in the decade Third Character Car line A=Full size/Galaxy B=Bronco (70-75) C=Torino/Elite D=Falcon (60-69) F=Outside US G=Comet (61-68) Montego (69-76) H=Med./Heavy Truck J=Industrial L=Lincoln(58-60) M=Mercury O=Fairlane (62-68) Torino (69-76) R=Capri S=Thunderbird T=Truck U=Lincoln(61-up) V=Lincoln W=Cougar Z=Mustang HM=Holman-Moody 3A635=P/S kit 4000--4599=Rear axle 4600-4999=Driveshaft 5000-5199=Frame 5200-5299=Muffler 5300-5399=Front springs 5310=Spring chart 5400-5999=Stabilizers 6000-9999=Engine ID tag/pulley ID chart 6900-7999=Manual trans-exc. linkage 7000-7299=Manual trans linkage, etc 7300-7499=Manual trans linkage, etc 7500-7999=Clutch 7000-7999=Auto trans - exc. linkage 7000-7199=Auto trans linkage, cooling, etc 7200-7399=Auto trans linkage, etc 7400-7999=Auto trans linkage, etc 8000-8499=Radiator, grill, cooling 8500-8599=Water pump 8600-8999=Fan 8620=Drive belt chart 9000-9299=Fuel tank & lines 9300-9399=Fuel pump, gauge Forth Character Series code A=Chassis B=Body E=Engine M=Motorsports X=Muscle Parts Y=Lincoln/Mercury Z=Ford Parts & Service 9400-9499=Manifolds, t-stat, emission 9500-9599=Carburetor 9500-9999=Carb parts/lists 9600-9699=Air cleaner and related 9700-9999=Choke, accelerator, speed control 10300-10599=Alternator, pulleys, mounting 10600-10999=Battery, instrument cluster 11000-11999=Starter, ignition, headlamp sw 12001-12999=Coil, distributor, plugs 13000-13999=Headlamps, parking ,turn ind. So that means that my particular 351 is a 1979 from a full size car. (D) 197x (9) 1979 (A) Full Size/Galaxy As for the heads... in 1978 Ford started making the 302/351 heads interchangeable - so that explains why the coolant passages have the "302" square port. "In 1978, Ford made both the 302 and 351W head interchangeable with no displacement numbers cast on them." http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_identify_SB_Ford_heads_without_pulling_them Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 19, 2013 She's supposed to be here later today as long as the guy made it out of Phoenix on time! I finished up the garage last night. Its tight (apartment garage), but it'll do for now! I also got a new set of Lakewood mounts, and ARP bolts. I'm waiting on the frame brackets from CJs so I can drop it in to get it out of the way for now. I also got my assembly instructions as well! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69FB 12 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 Nice! Where did you get the assembly manuals? Those look great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 She's supposed to be here later today as long as the guy made it out of Phoenix on time! I finished up the garage last night. Its tight (apartment garage), but it'll do for now! Dont feel bad I am also working out of a 1 car garage. Unless the work can be done on the workbench it has to be done outside. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
maxum96 32 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 Okay... I found lots of info today on my motor! This is my Engine Casting Number... D9AE The top number is called the engineering number. The bottom one is the block's casting date. Your block was cast on July 27, 1969. 1969 351W blocks are desirable. Nice score. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 476 Report post Posted April 21, 2013 The enginering # says D9 that would make it a 1979 351. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 Okay.... She finally arrived Friday evening as the sun was going down! It was on the top rack of the transporter, and I had the privilege/stress of helping the driver unload it! I didn't get any pics of rolling it down the driveway since I was helping push/steer it. Here it is for the first time in the garage, and with the shrink wrapping off! It was absolutely FILLED with parts: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 After a day of unpacking it... Luckily all the glass made it, and it has most of the exterior trim. A lot of the interior parts are well worn, but complete... a little restoration on some will bring them back. Others are beyond repair (dash pads, radiator, etc) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 Oh what a feeling! Now the fun begins. Is it in the condition you expected, as it was reported? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 Oh what a feeling! Now the fun begins. Is it in the condition you expected, as it was reported? Bob For the most part yes. The only items that weren't completely as I thought they were was the following: The hood he said was "easily repairable", but its shot. The bracing underneath is all rusted out. The topside is fixable, but the rest is no good. Not a big deal as the hoods are readily available. I'm not holding that against him - he's a body guy by trade so maybe those repairs would be worth it to him. He said the "floors were in, but need to be finished up" I assumed that meant Tack-welded in place. What it really meant was that the passenger side floor is in, and the driver side floor is just resting in the car (not welded at all). not holding that against him either since I never had him clarify what that meant. He said he had "all the interior trim less door panels". That wasn't really the case. He has a lot of duplicate stuff, but its missing the sail panels, one of the trim pieces near the seat, package tray, and I think some of the upper door trim. None of that is too big of a deal - since I can get most of it over time, and he made up for it by including some stuff we hadn't even discussed and stuff that was in better shape than what he said: He said the seats were "totally gone" but he'd throw them in anyway. Luckily for me that just meant that the upholstery was gone. The frames, sliders, springs, levers, and back covers are all in great shape! He threw in two sets of bumper brackets for the front, 3 fenders and 3 headlight buckets, but I'll have to strip them all down to see what's worth saving. I know one fender is toast. Its dented badly, and has a couple of tears in it, but the bucket may still be good. He also included two full heater assemblies - Two heater cores, two blowers, two heater controls, and various duct work. I'm not going to be running heat or AC on the car, so those will be up for sale soon. They look to be in decent shape, and the blower fans spin freely. He gave me 4 sets of gauge clusters.. so I'll have to see which ones I want to go with, and sell the other 3 So overall I'm very pleased with what I got. I'm into the car/motor for $5,500 so far, and have plenty to get started with! :yes: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69SlowResto 19 Report post Posted April 22, 2013 Looking good! Looks like your an unlucky member of the "One Car Garage" Club....its not a great club to be in but its better than nothing. I'm a member myself, its not easy but workable. Cheers Lee Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rd49221 14 Report post Posted April 23, 2013 Now the fun begins...........Looks like you've got a lot of parts to work with. I've got to say, though, I am very impressed with your Lethal Performance posters Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted April 23, 2013 awesome project you have there! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jandj1970 13 Report post Posted April 23, 2013 Nice project, good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted April 26, 2013 Some new toys came in this week!!! I should have some fun weekend projects ahead of me for the spring. I scored a sweet Steeroids manual rack in the for sale section on here. I decided to go with a manual rack since this car will be a weekend street car, and I'm trying to keep it as light and bare bones as possible. Although PS would be nice, the original PS doesn't have much feel to it, and the newer R&P systems are pretty pricey. This was a happy medium considering I had to replace the entire steering system anyway. I'll be hooking this up to the stock column for now until I save up some money for an Ididit column. I also scored a Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap intake on ebay for cheap! Only issue with it is that someone plugged up the holes for the coolant. I'm not sure why you'd do that other than to keep hot water out of the intake, but I'd guess that would screw up the flow in the heads. Needless to say - I'll be scraping all of the sealant out of those coolant ports. I also go my motor mount brackets and bolts from CJs, so that once the steering is in, I can drop the motor in for now to give me some more room in my 1-car garage. Also scored a complete set of taillights locally for $30!!! I popped one in for fun Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted December 6, 2013 Hey Guys, Not much has happened this summer with the car itself, but I did decide to go in a TOTALLY different direction with the Motor. In the middle of the summer I had a co-worker who blew the motor in his truck, and desperately needed a new block. He offered me way more than I paid for my 351, so I decided to let it go to him. That got me thinking that since this isn't some numbers matching rarity - I should follow my real dream for it, and Resto-Mod it! Almost as soon as I had that thought, I found a SMOKING deal on a 2004 Mach1 Engine and Tremec Transmission. It included all the harnesses, computer, pedals, cable, etc. I use the last bit of money I had in my "car" budget and ordered it up! I'll be going with the Rod & Custom Front end kit to mount this baby in there. I'll also have a field day wiring it up, but am hoping that Ron Francis can help out with most of that stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted December 6, 2013 That's going to make one sweet ride. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
waketek516 10 Report post Posted December 6, 2013 That's going to make one sweet ride. That '69 you guys are doing with the Boss Motor, and the Agent 47 Harbinger were a bit of inspiration for that decision! So thanks, MTF!!:rockon: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted December 7, 2013 lucky! I could never find a good deal on 4.6 32v motors :( lol Can't wait to see this car come to life! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted December 7, 2013 Nice. You'll like those bump steer studs, should be able to eliminate nearly all toe change. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
