Lots of question! Hope to get a few answered.

[69droptopgt 10]

First of all I wanted to say hi to everyone. :phone:I just purchased a 69GT Convertible and have some questions. The car is in really good shape except interior and floorpans. I was told it had been dry stored for 30 years. Numbers match. Frame "rails" are all good. Tranny worked good for a few days and it stuck in first. Not the shifter. Not really too important to me anyways gonna put in a T5. Here are my questions:

1) It needs a new interior Who make the best affordable deluxe interiors. Need everything pretty much.

2) Are all floor pans created equal? Is there one floorpan better than other? All old pans are rusted pretty bad. I think they must have just put into storage with wet carpet. Bottom of car is in really good shape without rust besides floors.

3) It does not have power steering. From what I have read, the old powersteering is not very good. Has anyone did a rack and pinion setup without doing damage to car. I would like to be able to remove to make the car back stock as it is a fairly rare car.

I got the car at auction for a really good price and want to put some money into it to get it back into shape. It runs really well and cannot wait to get moving on this project. Thanks,

Paulo

[Phils69 27]

I put on a Randall's rack power steering kit about 3 years ago. It was pricey but has worked very well.

[RPM 1,190]

Welcome Paulo, congrats on the purchase of the GT convert. The conv has a different seat /crossmember /riser piece that runs from rocker to rocker above the floors. Much stronger than the DB/coupes. Nice score on the good price. Where are you located? Bob.

[69droptopgt 10]

Live in AnnArbor, Mi. Cannot believe the price I got it for. It was a good price even for a non GT car. But they advertised as a GT so I was hoping it was. Got the Marti and it checked out. It is in amazing shape considering the age.

[MustangChuck 16]

Bad floors are usually a sign of a bad cowl (the area between the hood and the front windshield). Thankfully, the top part can be unscrewed and removed to get a good look at it.

 

No, not all floors are created equal. I bought the cheap Chinese set of full length floors from Mustangs Unlimited and they aren't that great. The edge that goes to the door side is rounded instead of being bent at a 90. The fit was ok, but not great. The body shop had to do a bit of work to get them in.

 

I have been told that Dynacorn floors are really nice. I am sure the other floors MU sells are better than the ones I bought.

 

I have no direct experience with rack-and-pinions, but I am planning my own rack based on the GM J-body rack. It should install very similar to the Steeroids rack (but with a cross brace instead of two mounting brackets). If you do the rack upgrade, I believe that you have to either replace or cut your original column.

 

Welcome to the forums and congrats on the purchase! Hopefully you will get it back on the road soon!

 

Chuck

[69droptopgt 10]

Cowl area is fine. Been inspected the car alot because I wanted to take it for a spin and did not want to die lol. If you do your rack and pinion I hope you post it here. Would be nice to see. Will it bolt up or is it going to hard to "undo"? Looked at the randall rack it looks nice. I wont be doing this until next spring so I go a little time to think about it unless something come up to speed me up lol. This winter will be body work, interior and floor replacement. Hope to score a good T5 this week and do the change over. I had a line on a 94 cobra t5 but I read that you need to use the 93 and before :( I think I can get a 91-92 non cobra (300 torque) for around 600. Trying to decide if I will keep original bell housing or replace with a better one. Eventually all driveline will be pulled and set aside because it is the original (at least motor is). I can still drive it in first gear lol. Any ideas on interiors? Mine is totally shot and it looks like somone painted with spraypaint lol. I hear some are better than others but cannot find any info.

[danno 128]

Are you going to go with a Deluxe or standard interior. That is one of the first questions you will need answered? Parts for deluxe are more difficult to get and more costly. Find out the original color of your interior also and if you want to stay with that. Mine was black, and parts for it are easy to get. I have not had to replace any parts for my 69 'vert, but all except for the rear side window panels are the same as a hardtop. The backrest of the rear seat is also different, but as long as you have the steel frame, that is all the upholstery shop should need.

 

You also need to find out what your original seat covers were, and if you want to stay with that, or go with something else.

 

I also have Randalls rack, it is based on the GM J car rack. It does require drilling a few holes to mount it. It also requires cutting a little off the bottom of the steering column shell under the hood. I am like you, I try to do very little to my car that cannot be reversed some day to return it to original. The small cut needed to install the rack was a compromise that I have never looked back on.

[69gmachine 15]

I did my own j car rack installation as well. See my cardomain site for pictures in my sig below.

 

In addition to the r&p I designed the entire front suspension steering and brakes using the Wilwood spindle. I can fit 275s on a 17x9 wheel in the stock front fender without spacers. I also have a turn rate and radius on par with a new Mustang. Of course there's no need for such a large front tire on the street, but you can't have too much tire for autocross.

 

Jimjific will be posting pics soon of a hybrid installation using many of my parts for his rack install (I think in the project progress forum).

[PaleRider 12]

Since it is a GT I would try and stay close to its roots as possible.

 

1. From an interior standpoint there are only a couple manufacturers TMI being the most popular one. All the mustang suppliers carry them. Since you are pretty close to the end of the year - I would check CJ Pony on Black Friday and in Dec - they run the bigges sales. can get up to 20%. I need an inerior for my 66 and holding off till then.

 

2. Floor Pans - definitely go full floor pan. Less work in long run + Looks better. Go Dynacorn. Will need to pay truck freight so if you need other large parts, doors fenders, etc. Order at same time. One flat rate usually regardless of number of pieces.

 

3. Power Steering - I have OEM in my 1970 all new parts and hoses - works fine. Not as stiff as R&P but I like it. OEM PS gets a bad rap because a few more hoses and if not not done right chance for more leaks. The key is when replacing hoses drop the unit so you can get to all the fittings and use new seats. I just redid my 1970 - new power control valve, cyclinder, and hoses - no leaks and drives great. Upgrading my current 1966 project to PS and going OEM parts too. Cheaper than a quality R&P system - no cutting or special mods. Check out Chockostang website. Got all my parts thru them. Very knowledgeable and excellent customer service.

 

Good luck and congrats on your find. I'm jealous currently looking for a 69/70 vert. If you find another good deal pass it on. :-)

 

http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/powersteeringunits.html

Edited October 26, 2012 by PaleRider

[69droptopgt 10]

FIrst,

I would like to to thank all of you for the info. Everyone here has been so helpful. Yeah I need the deluxe because I want to keep it original. It is/was a acapulco blue car with 7WA (white decor vinyl bucket seats with black components). That brings me to another question, what exacty is the diference in the 7w and 7wa trim code? The codes I see listed seem to only have 2 digits. Did not know if one company had better quality than others. I had planned to go full pans because they are all bad. I was not sure of the dynacom quality because I have seen some people complaining about them and others singing praise lol. I am divided on weather to put oem or go aftermarket on the power steering. Original drivetrain will get mothballed for posi, t5 replacement of 3speed and protection of original engine. Again thanks everyone.

P.S. like the buildup 69gmachine!

[Pyetime 10]

69GMachine, Great looking car! What r and p set up did you use? There are so many options out there. I like the fitment of yours. Direct bolt in? Thanks

[Klutch 17]

Wow, nice score on a GT!

 

- Last year I installed new floor pans in my 1970 Mach 1. I used the Premium long pans from Mustangs Unlimited. These are made in Canada for the "Spectra Premium" brand and I'm very happy with the quality. The metal is a little thicker than other sheet metal I've ordered, to include Dynacorn. And the Spectra Premium pans match the 69/70 original pans almost exactly. The only difference is there's an extra drain hole in front of the front seat. On other floor pans I've seen, the ribs stamped into the metal go in the wrong direction for the 69/70 Mustangs.

 

If I had to do it again, I would install a complete, new floor. A new floor is easy to install and, when it's done, it looks just like factory. I butt welded my pans in and it looks pretty good. However, it would look better without any welding seams. You can order a new floor from Dynacorn. You'll get punished harshly on shipping, but I still think it's worth it.

 

- Rack & Pinion setups are cool, but I personally don't see the justification. I drove a '69 Cougar as a daily driver for 12 years. It had the factory power steering and I was very happy with it. No, it doesn't feel like a modern power steering setup. But it did the job just fine. I would also recommend Chockostang for steering and brake components.

 

- For the interior, I would recommend calling NPD and asking them for their best quality parts. NPD typically carries lower cost parts that most people want because they're cheap. But they also carry higher quality parts for those who don't mind paying a little more.

 

There's a guy who restores door panels and I've heard very good things about his work. I don't recall his name, but you can probably find references here if you search "door panels".

[69droptopgt 10]

Thanks. I scored the car at less than $8,000 (original engine)at auction and major problem is only floors and interior. Rails and everything else in great shape. Pass fender and light bucket is a little pushed in. A couple holes around quarter size in trunk. All the rest of sheet metal is excellent. hardly a ding in them. Still not 100 percent sure what the 7wa interior code is about will work on that. In next few weeks gonna put a t5 in and maybe pick up another 351 windsor because it has the original in it. Put in a posi (why do they make a 351W without posi? lol) Set the original drivetrain aside to preserve it.

[Klutch 17]

Thanks. I scored the car at less than $8,000 (original engine)at auction and major problem is only floors and interior. Rails and everything else in great shape. Pass fender and light bucket is a little pushed in. A couple holes around quarter size in trunk. All the rest of sheet metal is excellent. hardly a ding in them. Still not 100 percent sure what the 7wa interior code is about will work on that. In next few weeks gonna put a t5 in and maybe pick up another 351 windsor because it has the original in it. Put in a posi (why do they make a 351W without posi? lol) Set the original drivetrain aside to preserve it.

 

If you order a Marti Report, it will list every option that was ordered for your Mustang.

 

Yeah, you see some strange option combinations on Mustangs. Remember, back then buyers would look at a long list of options and simply check what they wanted. My 70 Mach 1 was ordered with only the Mach 1 package and a shaker. Thus, it had a 351 Cleveland 2V, a 3-speed manual and single exhaust. Of course, it too has an single track rear with a 3.00 gear.

 

FYI, there's not really a need to preserve the original drive train for your car. It's up to you. But there's no VIN stamp on a 351W block. The Boss 302 blocks and some 351C blocks had the VINs stamped into them. (The 351W engines that came in the 69 Shelby GT 350 may have had the VIN stamped into the block. I'm not sure.) Either way, it's no big deal. 351W blocks are easy to come by. If you use iron heads, just be sure you get the closed chambered variety.

[Klutch 17]

Thanks. I scored the car at less than $8,000 (original engine)at auction and major problem is only floors and interior. Rails and everything else in great shape. Pass fender and light bucket is a little pushed in. A couple holes around quarter size in trunk. All the rest of sheet metal is excellent. hardly a ding in them. Still not 100 percent sure what the 7wa interior code is about will work on that. In next few weeks gonna put a t5 in and maybe pick up another 351 windsor because it has the original in it. Put in a posi (why do they make a 351W without posi? lol) Set the original drivetrain aside to preserve it.

 

If you order a Marti Report, it will list every option that was ordered for your Mustang.

 

Yeah, you see some strange option combinations on Mustangs. Remember, back then buyers would look at a long list of options and simply check what they wanted. My 70 Mach 1 was ordered with only the Mach 1 package and a shaker. Thus, it had a 351 Cleveland 2V, a 3-speed manual and single exhaust. Of course, it too has an single track rear with a 3.00 gear.

 

FYI, there's not really a need to preserve the original drive train for your car. It's up to you. But there's no VIN stamp on a 351W block. The Boss 302 blocks and some 351C blocks had the VINs stamped into them. (The 351W engines that came in the 69 Shelby GT 350 may have had the VIN stamped into the block. I'm not sure.) Either way, it's no big deal. 351W blocks are easy to come by. If you use iron heads, just be sure you get the closed chambered variety.

[fvike 173]

TMI - http://www.tmiproducts.com/ makes great intereor parts. This is what you will be sitting in and looking at when you drive your GT, so buy quality stuff.

[fvike 173]

TMI - http://www.tmiproducts.com/ makes great intereor parts. This is what you will be sitting in and looking at when you drive your GT, so buy quality stuff.

[69droptopgt 10]

Thanks.

BTW Ford did have vin numbers on 351W. Was required by federal law. Some plants started late 68. My car does have a vin number and it is correct. Thats only reason I want to pull it lol. I have seen lots of people say that TMI has nice stuff. Have been looking more into the 7wa and read somewhere saying that it denotes non standard variation in interior. They said it can mean "dark teak"/walnut inserts or something non-standard as comfortweave. That strikes me strange because they have the 5w code but not for converts. Need to get home but I do think they are comfortweave dont know if they are original but they look like it. I sure wish I could find the build sheet. Looked around but did not find it. Gonna replace full floor pans for reason you said Klutch.

[69droptopgt 10]

Thanks.

BTW Ford did have vin numbers on 351W. Was required by federal law. Some plants started late 68. My car does have a vin number and it is correct. Thats only reason I want to pull it lol. I have seen lots of people say that TMI has nice stuff. Have been looking more into the 7wa and read somewhere saying that it denotes non standard variation in interior. They said it can mean "dark teak"/walnut inserts or something non-standard as comfortweave. That strikes me strange because they have the 5w code but not for converts. Need to get home but I do think they are comfortweave dont know if they are original but they look like it. I sure wish I could find the build sheet. Looked around but did not find it. Gonna replace full floor pans for reason you said Klutch.

[RPM 1,190]

So where does one find a vin on a 69 351w block? I've got 2 in my shop and the closest number I see is a C9 part #.

[RPM 1,190]

So where does one find a vin on a 69 351w block? I've got 2 in my shop and the closest number I see is a C9 part #.

[69droptopgt 10]

Vin is on the back of the block on the drivers side. Right below the head. Will only be last digits of vin. I think like 8 or so. Started in 68 some time. They must be hand stamped becuase they are not in perfect line. Pontiacs are perfectly lined up

Edited November 19, 2012 by 69droptopgt

[69droptopgt 10]

Vin is on the back of the block on the drivers side. Right below the head. Will only be last digits of vin. I think like 8 or so. Started in 68 some time. They must be hand stamped becuase they are not in perfect line. Pontiacs are perfectly lined up

Edited November 19, 2012 by 69droptopgt

[RPM 1,190]

Hmm...right you are droptop. Never knew, thanks.

[RPM 1,190]

Hmm...right you are droptop. Never knew, thanks.