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69_Mustang

I live a quarter mile at a time... while running. :|

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EDIT: Added some pics!

 

Hey, hey!

 

New around these parts; I've always liked the older stangs, just never really got into them up until just recently.

 

I can from an interesting history. First vehicle ever was a Ford Ranger Edge (back in 2005). Then I moved onto Subarus; I ended up having, at different times, a 2006 Subaru STI and a 2009 Subaru STI. After moving away from the turbo/japanese import scene, I got into BMWs. M3s to be specific. I had bought a 1995 M3, kept it stock, other than an exhaust system. Then.. shortly after that I bought a 2003 M3 (inline 6 with a 8200 RPM redline and 333 BHP aka 265-270 WHP). I took that from a completely stock car, from 3450 lbs, to a 2980 lb street car. Kept stock airbags, stock seat belts, just a lot of carbon fiber. Kept it N/A and brought the WHP up to right around 315 WHP. Had some Intrax coilovers put on and the thing handled like a dream....

 

Then I realized I have zero time to ever enjoy that car and I was always scared to do anything with the engine; although it's actually a 11 year old design, that engine still runs pretty damn expensive!

 

That's when I decided to go American, for the first time in 7 years and just into something I've always wanted... as well as have access to a lot more inexpensive parts. Good example... my 2003 E46 M3 headers were 2k alone. :(

 

Well, now I back to American and rocking 2 sweet ass mustangs. One is white and the other is a Corvette Dark Metallic Grey. Both 69 stangs, white one has a 302 and the Grey has a 351 in it. Although... it feels like the 302 pulls a little harder. Not sure why, maybe the exhaust.

 

Anyways... First forum I've joined that has to do with Mustangs. Everything else is BMW and Subarus, lol.

 

Adam

Edited by 69_Mustang

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Thank you!

 

Looking forward to learning a lot about these cars. I think I might sell the white one already, lol. the girlfriend isn't too pleased about me having two.

 

I think my end goal for my car is to make a semi high revving 351 (7-8k depending on what's needed), maybe bored out a bit to get a little more displacement just to keep the stroke shorter to get that comfy high rev. Put in some streetable, but semi aggresive cams, run stepped headers with 3" collectors and a dual 3" exhaust with a xpipe. :D

 

That's about all I can think of right now... any pointers would be great!

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Cool, I have a local good friend that drives a BMW by day and a Fox body at the track and to shows. What gears and trans are both cars running? Final drive ratio is the single biggest factor in the pulling factor... besides engine torque of course.

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Hey Adam, welcome! Are your cars fastbacks?

 

No, unfortunately they're not. Just coupes.

 

Welcome Adam. There is alot to learn here if you hang around a while.:thumbup1:

 

I can only imagine. After a year on M3 forums I know a TON about almost every aspect of the car. Too bad I don't have that car anymore :\

 

Cool, I have a local good friend that drives a BMW by day and a Fox body at the track and to shows. What gears and trans are both cars running? Final drive ratio is the single biggest factor in the pulling factor... besides engine torque of course.

 

Not sure about the gears, they both are 3 speed, so I'd imagine the c4 trans. Final drive not sure either, I'd like to know. Coming from a M3 that was a big factor on how the car responded in the corners or even straight line on the track. Stock on the 03 M3 was 3.62 final drive, I shot it up to a 4.10 final drive and that think felt like a beast! On top of the 400+ lbs I dropped off the car, it was a fun daily driver. lol. But I sat at about 2850 RPMs crusing at 65 MPH... haha.

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Welcome, post pics when you can.

 

One thing from what you have said so far, 3" is a lot of exhaust for these cars, if it's not taking in an equal amount of air you may find that counter productive aside from the issues of running it front to back. 2.5" is more than enough without any major issues of fitting it underneath with an X pipe and readily available even in full stainless from a variety of manufacturers, the magnaflow set up is particularly nice.

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Welcome, post pics when you can.

 

One thing from what you have said so far, 3" is a lot of exhaust for these cars, if it's not taking in an equal amount of air you may find that counter productive aside from the issues of running it front to back. 2.5" is more than enough without any major issues of fitting it underneath with an X pipe and readily available even in full stainless from a variety of manufacturers, the magnaflow set up is particularly nice.

 

I've read that, about the 2.5". I'm hoping to just do my exhaust once, then follow it up with some head work, a little bit of boring and cams down the road to pull in the air needed. I don't mind losing a few HP for now. I'm curious as to whether someone has ever used the oval pipes, to help with clearance issues? I'd imagine with a good transition it should flow about the same but help add vertical clearance.

 

I'll definitely take what you said into consideration and do a lot more research to make sure it's worth while for me. I appreciate the input so far; you all are definitely a lot more helpful than when I first jumped on the M3 forums... they weren't so nice at first. lol. Now I'm like a lightweight/power mod god over there. :thumbup1:

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7k is obtainable. Depending on cam, lifters and heads it may not pay to run much above that. Strength depends on a lot of other factors too. Hp, stroke, bore, crank, NA or boosted, piston height, rods, bolts, etc. The block and webbing is only one piece of the equation.

 

There are probably more combinations of parts for strokers now than there are cam an intake kits for 302s... Its crazy!

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Yeah, with running. Lol. I do a lot of it.

 

I guess I have a lot of research to do.

 

For sure forged pistons, rods, maybe titanium valves/ valve springs, cams with all supporting parts, good heads (ported a bit), some port matching where ever else It's needed, etc...

 

Underdrive pulley set, electric fan, champion 4 row rad and thats all I can think of off the top of my head.

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The question is WHY do you want to spin a V8 to 7-8K? They can make a TON of power in lower rpms, which is their main advantage. Building, and spinning, a V8 motor to that rpm range very often will significantly cut down the engine's life too. Not to mention, when on the street will you even get the chance to spin the motor that high?

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Oh, ok. So maybe more like a 6500-6750 Redline?

 

Do we know how much weight is saved from the stock pistons and rods then going to forged? I imagine the slight weight savings per cylinder will aid a lot in getting it rev comfortablely high.

 

I'm not sure, but are the stock 351 heads 2 valve? I'd definitely like to step it up to a 4v, if its not already.

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Well, you'll be hard pressed to find any pushrod motors with 4 valve heads. When you see the engines referred to as "2V" and "4V," it's in reference to the number of venturis in the carburetor. The 4bbl and 2bbl engine, had different heads.

 

 

Before we get carried away here, the first thing you need is a realistic budget, and goals. How much do you want to spend, and how fast do you want to go?

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Well, coming from a M3, I revved to 8100 rpms daily. So in this car, I definitely would, if I could.

 

But I also want to be realistic; which is why I need to research more and hear more from you experienced guys.

 

 

Those are two completely different engines. American made V8s don't need to spin super high rpms to make power. You can build a 550+hp V8 which will make it's power under 6,000 rpm. No need to rev it to the moon to be a total beast.

 

And, as sportsroof69 said... what's your budget? Normally, the total build budget directs your build plans. Keep in mind, if you build a big power motor.... your drivetrain, and suspension, better get upgraded accordingly too. The "weak link" WILL fail with a big power engine. Transmission, U-joints, Drive Shaft, differential, and suspension all better be able to take what your putting through them. Budgets can quickly grow when you start making big power.

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Well, learning is happening. Oddly enough, American engines/ drivetrain are foreign to me. Lol.

 

I honestly, for now, want to do "little things". Like an underdrive pulley kit (maybe serpentine), headers, exhaust, electric fan for the rad and tac. Unsure if a carb Spacer will help or not, saw that at oriellys today.

 

Once I'm happy with the basic setup, I want to move into suspension. I know this car isn't made to handle like the M3, but for its type and "class" of cars, I'd like to make it a fun car in the handling department.

 

And THEN... I'll move onto big power stuff. lol. My budget, for the year is maybe a couple grand. But come next year... Pretty much can do whatever I want.

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Oh... So my headlights and dash lights started to dim in and out, not off, just quick flickering. I was thinking alternator, but I'm unsure. I need to check that and the battery to make sure they're hood.

 

Any idea as to what it could be? After the car is warmed up, I'll stall when coming to a stop, as well. It kind of really sucks! Could be related issues, since it seems to happen more when I have the headlights on. Could be coincidence.

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Does sound like a charging issue. Could be alt, voltage regulator or crap wiring. This will definately reduce power since your spark will be crap.

 

Regarding the carb spacer, this will add a little low end torque due to charge velocity by increasing the runner length, aid in atomization and perhaps most importantly in the summer, keep the fuel in the carb cooler.

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