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SM69Mach

New Engine Setup - Details??

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I am going to be pulling the motor soon for a new motor set up and wanted see what you guys are doing for detailing and painting. I have normally always painted the motor Ford Blue, but think it is time for a change. Looking at doing the maybe dark Ford Blue or Black on the block, heads will be aluminum. I have an aluminum Edlebrock Water pump, but may paint that engine color.

 

Just seeing what you guys thought and maybe post up some pictures of your engine bays for idea. Car is resto mod, so not overly concerned about orginality.

 

Here is the most recent pic. Most of the loose wires have been cleaned up.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=1010&d=1327417010

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Mine sounds similar to yours, and it's painted black, and I left the aluminum finish on the water pump. I think I'd paint the water pump next time, because it gets dirty, and it's about impossible to get it clean.

 

Engineinstallation7.jpg

Edited by sportsroof69

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That is what I was thinking as well. I have the intake powdercoated so it doesnt even match that well either. I was learning towards painting it, cause I dont think I can take it apart enough to get it powdercoated.

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Mine sounds similar to yours, and it's painted black, and I left the aluminum finish on the water pump. I think I'd paint the water pump next time, because it gets dirty, and it's about impossible to get it clean.

 

Engineinstallation7.jpg

 

I had a SuperFormance 427 Cobra with a Ford Racing 392 stroker motor. I swapped out the Ford Racing polished valve covers for a welded aluminum set very similar to what you have. But, I sanded down the polish to a brushed, race car like, finish....

 

2vl8d9j.jpg

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I like the Dark Ford Blue that was used in the late 1960's. What I plan to do when I have my 428 out is paint the parts Ford Blue that are supposed to be Ford Blue, but also cover with gloss clear coat. All parts that should be semi-gloss black with be gloss block with clear coat. I plan to polish and clear coat all aluminum parts such as intake manifold, valve covers, waterpump, etc.

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The clear coat helps protect the paint, and helps keep the aluminum looking nice with the polished look. If you don't polish the aluminum, the clear coat still makes it easier to clean up. For example, aluminum intakes will clean up much easier if something is spilled (coolant, gas, etc.) if it has several coats of high temperature clear coat on it. Most stains will just hose off. I think the dark colors really brink out chrome, polished aluminum, and other bright colors like Accell Super Stock yellow plug wires. I think the yellow plug wires match theyellow in the "428 Cobra Jet 4V" sticker on the air cleaner. I know it's nit-picking, but I love an engine that I'm proud to pop the hood on.

Edited by jholmes217

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I guess I'm the odd guy out here. I painted my engine bay body color with basecoat/clearcoat system. Also painted the block the same color. I did get the Ford racing polished valve covers, painted the insets body color, then had them powdercoated.

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I guess I'm the odd guy out here. I painted my engine bay body color with basecoat/clearcoat system. Also painted the block the same color. I did get the Ford racing polished valve covers, painted the insets body color, then had them powdercoated.

 

 

Got any pics? I doubt I go body color, but would be interested to see how it is different from the standard black engine bays.

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Here is my new 408 just dropped in still have to make distributor wire look neater ad put headers in hooker super comp 6116 they were tight but didn't have to ding them they missed everything.Had to put in ron morris mounts the chinese aftermarket shock towers and motor mount horns were 1'4 inch narrower on each side stok mounts wouldn't work was either a half inch to either side wouldnt match the other split difference with ron morris mounts and alls well now.Went with Ford Sterling Gray same color I am going to paint the rest of car,then do matte black out hood like mach 1

Edited by 69boss408
needed to add

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Isn't POR for covering up rust?

 

No, it can also be used as a rust resistant coating. The body shop down the road sold me on it. Here's the description from the POR 15 website. POR-15 is the product that changed car restoration permanently and is used by manufacturers world-wide to protect their factories from rust and corrosion. POR-15's non-porous coating keeps moisture away from metal permanently. The secret lies in POR-15's curing process. Most paints dry through evaporation, but POR-15 dries faster when moisture is present.Now add to that POR-15's incredible hardness, toughness, and flexibility and you have a coating that is practically indestructible.

POR-15 is great for auto restoration, but it's also a state-of-the-art concrete preservative and floor coating.

Try the many uses of POR-15 and you'll understand why this incredible product is now sold in 52 countries around the world!

 

I can say it is pretty durable. I've drop a few parts and tools on parts coated with POR 15, and it didn't even scratch it.

Edited by jholmes217

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Here's a few pics of mine:

 

i'm guessing your mopar had some influence over you?

 

i always joke with my friend how much easier it must be to restore his challenger's as opposed to these mustangs since everything in the engine compartment seems to be painted body color (bolts, hinges, brackets, etc...)

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You noticed the similarities eh? Yeah, I like the Mopar idea of body color under the hood but I dont like painted bolt heads. I also like polished aluminum and stainless lines but no steel braid!!! Those sleeve kits may look ok when first installed but ultimately will look ghetto after some time.

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well i've always been a sucker for a fairly stock looking engine bay with a ford dark blue block engine but with an aluminum intake instead of a painted cast iron piece and black sheetmetal, brackets and pulleys. i also like to throw in a few chrome accessories here and there like valave cover breather/oil cap, radiator cap, thermostat housing, dipstick, master cylinder cap, air cleaner wing nut, etc.

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