The Bitch is Back!

[RPM 1,190]

Should've started this thread with these pics, but just relocated them after many years, 5 moves and 2 divorces! Any who, back in 1998 or 99, the car was running and had about a 2 yr old paint job in Porsche India red. The trans leaked fluid bad and as I was filling it with the car running, it started hauling ass in reverse. It hit a faucet spigot with the right quarter, and pinned a concrete mixer against a gate post. Nice, didn't realize it was in reverse. But I do NOW use the parking brake!

Figured with the damage, might as well do a total refurbishment. I built this rotisserie out of materials on hand, stripped the body completely and had it soda blasted. Plastic baggies are nice to label parts in, but mine sure didn't last 10-12 years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bob

Edited July 29, 2015 by RPM

[waketek516 10]

Wow - Great updates! Your work is amazing!

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks waketek. My golf game and fabricating/welding and such have something in common. I know what I'm capable of, I always expect my best results, and rarely am I satisfied with the outcome. Only saving grace with this car is anything I do to it, is better than the factory did.

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

Several years ago I thought about building a chromoly tube front suspension using coil over shocks like I'd seen on many hot rods. I considered the Mustang II, but didn't really want to cut up the car. I figured by using the basic stock suspension design and pick up points (with Shelby drop), but using tubing and quality coil overs, I'd have something that rode well, looked cool and different. I knew that with my basic skills I didn't want to pay someone for something I could do as well, and for a lot less.

It didn't take to long to pick the materials and components I wanted to use. One day at the grocery store while looking thru Mustang mags I ran across a write up on the Ron Morris front coil over suspension. Holy crap, mine looked almost identical. About the only difference was he used a 1" lower control arm, and I had a 1-1/4". I felt confident mine should work out OK.

 

 

 

I bought the front and rear 4130 tubing from The Chassis Shop. They bent the upper 1" x .083 wall arms. I used the stock arms to build jigs to fab the tube arms. I used tube adapters to attach rod ends. The strut arms were originally 1" swedged tubes with 5/8" ends. I had a change of heart and wanted to use a 3/4" clevis. The new strut rods are 1-1/8" x .083 4130, as that is the smallest size tube I could use with 3/4" thread rod ends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used a piece of hex bar to make the UCA pivot shaft. Center drilled it, tapped it 1/2" -20 and tapered the ends all on the lathe.

 

 

 

I made the sway bar link from mild steel hex bar. I center drilled it on the lathe, then tapped them for left and right hand threads.

 

 

 

Front upper coil over mount.

 

Edited February 15, 2014 by RPM

[RPM 1,190]

Since the front end is lowered a bit and I don't care for bump steer, I bought a tie rod adjuster from Afco. It took several adjustments to get the rod end at the correct height location. After each adjustment I moved the spindle thru its arc of travel till I found the position with the least amount of toe change.

 

 

 

 

The tie rod adjuster replaced the stock outer tie rod with a shorter rod end. The stock crappy stamped steel toe adjusters were not long enough to fit the shorter rod ends. I made a pair out of 1" 6061-T6 aluminum round bar. I drilled the center to size and tapped them 11/16-18 (odd size) left and right hand. I milled flat spots for wrench adjustments.

 

Edited December 12, 2013 by RPM

[FordRacing 10]

RPM,

 

Where did you get the screw-in ball joints and screw-in ball joint housings from? Did you have to drill out the spindles to make the ball joints work, or did they fit the factory holes?

Love the Fab work!

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks Fordracing. I bought the screw in ball joint cups from AFCO. No mod to the spindle hole needed. I think they are the Mopar bj, I'll look for my info.

 

Bob

[FordRacing 10]

No mod to the spindle hole needed. I think they are the Mopar bj, I'll look for my info.

 

Bob

 

 

Oh that's great news, when you get a chance the info on the ball joints would be greatly appreciated.

[Jimjific 23]

Bob,

 

I'm surprised with all of the mods you have done that you haven't put a rack in this car. Is it in the plans? Following your thought that anything you do is better than stock, a rack is worlds better than the slop box that came with these cars.

 

Jim

[RPM 1,190]

Fordracing, the AFCO part #'s are:
Upper bj-20034. Lower-20036
Ball joint threaded sleeve-20043

On a related note, the tie rod adjusters that allow you to change the position of the tie rod angle fot the big bearing 70 spindle, but not the 69. They have the same hole taper but need reamed out a bit larger. The 69 has a 7/16" hole at the small end, and the 70 has a 1/2" hole. Speedway Motors sells the Ford tapper reamer.


Bob

Edited March 27, 2015 by RPM

[RPM 1,190]

Bob,

 

I'm surprised with all of the mods you have done that you haven't put a rack in this car. Is it in the plans? Following your thought that anything you do is better than stock, a rack is worlds better than the slop box that came with these cars.

 

Jim

 

Jim Jim Jim. what person in their right mind would add rack and pinion steering to a classic Mustang? I thought of adapting a r&p back in the mid 90's. I wanted a quality unit, one I could modify myself because I'm that way, one that I could get the center tie rod pivots at around 13-1/2" (I think) to fit in line with the UCA & LCA pivot, and one with about 4 turns lock to lock like the stock Mustang box. I contacted the hot rod shop Total Cost Involved as they made a coil over front kit with rear steer. They originally used a modified Omni rack, but changed to their own design.

 

I bought a used Omni rack but didn't like it because of its cheap construction. I then bought a BMW alum case rear steer rack, narrowed the housing and the rack. The problem with this was by narrowing it, the steering shaft was moved to far in to the vehicle centerline and would interfere with the oil pan. I wasn't smart enough to modify it like the popular units used today are done.

I really lost interest in the conversion after it didn't work. Once I saw the current adaption method I decided that I will add the r&p after I get the car on the road. One of the first things I bought for the car was a Flaming River new box, so I'm currently not too worried about the steering. Good observation Jim.

 

 

 

 

Bob

[FordRacing 10]

Fordracing, the AFCO part #'s are:

Upper bj-20034. Lower-20036

Ball joint threaded sleeve-20043

 

On a related note, the tie rod adjusters that allow you to change the position of the tie rod angle fit the big bearing 70 spindle, but not the 69. They have the same hole taper but need reamed out a bit larger. The 69 has a 7/16" hole at the small end, and the 70 has a 1/2" hole. Speedway Motors sells the Ford tapper reamer.

 

 

Bob

 

Bob;

Thank you very much for that info…..

 

Gordon

[RPM 1,190]

My method of restoration is one step forward, two backwards. It's not my intention, but seems to go that way for me. Back around 2001 when I brought the car home from the body shop the first time, I noticed the stock fender opening wouldn't work for my plans. So I decided to roll the fenders which means more paint time on the fenders.

 

The fronts were fairly easy. With them off the car and sitting on a padded table, I used a tool designed to roll the edges inward. It bent the edge so that the tire wouldn't get cut, but was still at least an inch thick. I pounded with a soft hammer with a sand bag under it. I was able to make progress, but not as much as I wanted. I cut slits to allow the fender lip to roll under till I was happy with them. The top of the w/o is .300" thick, and the lower edges .400". I used a mig to weld the slits, and let the body shop finish the edges.

 

 

 

 

The rears were a major pita! The problem lies in the double layer of panels from the quarter panel and the wheel house panel. I did it entirely with a body hammer. Spent 2-3 hr's per side and was able to get the edge to just under 1". They have a smooth radius without any worry of cutting tires. I did not cut reliefs like the front due to the double panels.

 

 

 

 

 

Even though it was a lot of work with a hammer resulting in sore arms and hands, I'd definitely do it again.

 

 

Bob

Edited May 6, 2014 by RPM

[pimpinx7 12]

The fender work looks great! You could make a killing in the import scene. I have seen some cars that would look amazing, but.... the fender work is an eyesore! X1000!

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks pimpin. One of my Dad's many lines was, if you're going to do something you might as well do it right. I "try" to follow his good example.

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

In the past couple of months I've decided to add a six point roll bar, mainly for the added body stiffness. I also located and bought a set of 2011 Mustang GT 18x8 wheels. They were local on craigslist and about half a mile down the road. They are pristine and came off a Mustang with 5,000 miles on it. I intent to use a Competition Engineering main hoop, and get the straight forward and rear bars locally. I'll modify the forward bars to have swing out door bars.

 

 

 

 

I'm in the process of installing the main hoop and rear bar 1/8" footings.

 

 

 

 

 

The front 18x8 wheels have 6-3/8" backspace, and somehow fit with 1" wheel spacers. It might have to do with the front round tube control arms with screw in ball joint sleeves. Plenty of threads left on the studs to add 1/8" of more spacer.

 

 

 

 

 

I hope to buy and install the roll bar and materials within the next couple of weeks. I should be able to use my brothers Miller Tig to weld up the roll bar. I've had two Tig welders, but had to sell my last one when I was laid off. I gots to be having me a Tig.

 

Bob

[stangme428 33]

awesome on the progress!! cant wait to see how you design/build the swing out door bars.. i have thought about doing this but held off..

[latoracing 256]

Nice score on the wheels. Ought to look fantastic when done.

I see that you are going with a bar as well, I have picked out the same location for my main hoop attachment point. I measured my widest point of the main hoop to be 55", which will put it real tight to the B pillar. Are you going to attempt to put the bar in enough for the stock interior panels to cover the bottom portion of the hoop? That is a good price (except for the shipping part) for that much material, and all the bends completed.

I am contemplating some kind of door bars on mine as well. I have some ideas on how I want to make them bolt in, instead of the swing open type. Jut do not know if it is practical.

TIG welding is fun, I would never be with out one. Jump back into it an by a Dynasty 200. I want to see what you come up with, and I'm shure you will make some purdy welds.

[69droptopgt 10]

I just read thru you post and you have done some beautiful work. What color are you gonna paint it? You have some amazing skills there.

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks guys.

Stangme, the swing out bars will be like most guys I've seen do them, and use a straight bar. It's basically a standard forward bar with a section cut out and these tube end adapters welded in. They usually pivot at the lower end and secure at the upper with a quick removal pin. These pieces are expensive at the retail level, so I plan on making my own. The forward bars will not be in use very often as I will only use them when on a track.

 

 

latoracing, at $350 I believe I did get a good, not great deal. The verticle part of the main hoop is 52-3/4" wide per CE. If I use the CE hoop I might add a bend at the lower end to bring them in a bit. I have a local race car Fab ship local that can bend up some 4130 for the hoop for $125. The flipping freight from Summit on the hoop is 80 something dollars. Back in the day I could make some purdy Tig welds, but I think old man age caught up with me.

 

69droptopgt, I'm going to stick with my original plan and use Porsche Indian red.

 

Bob

Edited February 15, 2014 by RPM

[RPM 1,190]

Stole an idea from buening and drew up plans for a roll bar main hoop. Didn't take long to get the angles, tangent points and leg lengths. I really didn't want to pay twice as much for shipping than the part itself. Figured I'd spend twenty bucks more and have a nearby race car fab shop bend some 1-5/8" chromoly and support the local economy.

 

Bob

 

[latoracing 256]

You stole my cardboard! Going 4130, that sounds like even more fun than a mild steel cage. It seems like we are on the same page, I'll be watching what you come up with, and get more ideas...

[RPM 1,190]

Oh crap, see what happens when old guys try to think. Sorry bout that lato, but buening isn't too bad a guy to get confused with :) I'll get your cardboard back to you this week. If I could get some dom here at a decent price I'd go with it.

 

 

Bob

[RPM 1,190]

Change again in roll bar plan, sheesh. After talking it over with my engineer nephew who has installed a roll bar or two, I decided to use 1-3/4" x .134 mild steel. I Bought the Competition Engineering main hoop thru Summit, $48 plus $89 shipping. I'll get the remaining tubing locally at a better price than what's included in the kit. When I was looking into the roll bar a guy at Summit said they were in stock, but they need to coordinate shipping with a trucking company. The S&W roll bar is made to order, East coast and 2 weeks out.

 

Ordered online yesterday around noon. Got a phone message today at 9:30 a.m. from Fed Ex, part is in at their nearby location about a mile away. I check my order confirmation from Summit, freight is $12 not $80. Think I need to buy a lotto ticket. Anywho, now the "fun" begins, fitting and welding.

 

Bob

 

Edited March 5, 2014 by RPM

[latoracing 256]

That hoop doesn't look bad at all, and a very good buy at around $5.00 a foot, with bends. Are you going full cage, or just a bar? Either way, it will look great. Fit your interior panels before you tack it in place.

 

Are those the new hollow style coil overs in the shock access holes? (LOL)