no instrument lights on my 69

[foothilltom 33]

Matt, did the fuse solve your instrument light issue? Last we checked in with our hero, you said the fuse was bad, but did you get a new one yet? If so, do you have lights?

 

With all due respect to relic, I would probably do some additional tests on my instruments before tearing my dash apart (because that is no fun at all). Relic may be 100% right about the voltage regular being bad, but it would be nice to rule some things out.

 

Have you tried any tests on, say, your fuel gauge? Have you tried grounding the wire at the sending unit to the body (with the key on) and see if your needle pegs? That would prove that you have power to your instruments and tend to rule out a bad regulator.

 

I guess I'm suggesting you do some additional voltage tests on your instruments before you go taking your dash apart, but that's just me.

 

If you do go that direction, just go slow. The dash pad has to come off first and that is tricky business given how fragile they generally are. There are no real tricks except to make sure you find all the sheet metal screws before you start horsing things off.

 

Good luck,

Tom

[panteramatt 1]

No Foothilltom, the fuse didnt work. I didnt do any more voltage tests. Can you guide me as to what to check,how, and where?

[panteramatt 1]

No Foothilltom, the fuse didnt work. I didnt do any more voltage tests. Can you guide me as to what to check,how, and where?

[relic1864 10]

I am telling you that on mine I spend from 10am till 11pm non stop checking wires using meters and getting no where. If your guages are not working its the instrument voltage regulator and your circuit board will be very brittle and needs to be replaced. If you go to the trouble to take your dash out you might as well fix everything you want done the first time. I didn't and it took about 3 different dash removals to complete what I should have did the first time. Its no fun takeing all that stuff apart and and not getting everything done the first time. Get a new instrument voltage regulator, circuit board, all new lights, if your instrument glass is scratched or dull, get new ones,these are plastic not glass. The LED lights came from California Mustang not Mustangs Unlimited. I still need to fix my Alt guage which is ordered and on the way now. It has a broke wire on the inside of my old guage.

[relic1864 10]

I am telling you that on mine I spend from 10am till 11pm non stop checking wires using meters and getting no where. If your guages are not working its the instrument voltage regulator and your circuit board will be very brittle and needs to be replaced. If you go to the trouble to take your dash out you might as well fix everything you want done the first time. I didn't and it took about 3 different dash removals to complete what I should have did the first time. Its no fun takeing all that stuff apart and and not getting everything done the first time. Get a new instrument voltage regulator, circuit board, all new lights, if your instrument glass is scratched or dull, get new ones,these are plastic not glass. The LED lights came from California Mustang not Mustangs Unlimited. I still need to fix my Alt guage which is ordered and on the way now. It has a broke wire on the inside of my old guage.

[PaleRider 12]

Are turn signal lights or high beam working - if not could be something in circuit board. If yes - I'm still betting on headlight switch. If guages are not working could be voltage regulator also. Sorry don't know how to test switch - but on both 70s I've owned - dash light did not work changed headlight switch and they worked fine. What the history did they ever work for you?

[PaleRider 12]

Are turn signal lights or high beam working - if not could be something in circuit board. If yes - I'm still betting on headlight switch. If guages are not working could be voltage regulator also. Sorry don't know how to test switch - but on both 70s I've owned - dash light did not work changed headlight switch and they worked fine. What the history did they ever work for you?

[foothilltom 33]

Relic's experience is definitely fresh and his situation is quite similar to yours, so I'm inclined to not stir the pot much more, but I'm thinking you have at least 2 separate problems:

 

1. Non-working dash lights

2. Non-working instruments

 

The root of these problems are, unfortunately, not always the same. The most cost-effective solution is to diagnose them separately and fix only what you find to be broken. This is not always the most satisfying or time-effective as it takes some skill with a meter and fundamental knowledge of wiring/electricity.

 

By the way, it would be VERY helpful to know what *does* work in terms of electrical stuff (signals, flashers, head lights, dome lights, marker lights, brakes, etc.) to give us a sense of scope.

 

In any case, PaleRider has a great point about the headlamp switch. This baby controls about 5 different circuits (though not the instruments themselves) and I've had to replace the switch in both of my coupes. The little twisty resistor thing can go bad quite easily and render your dash lights inoperative. It also happens to have the luxury of being relatively cheap and easy to replace.

 

So I would agree with PaleRider on that score.

 

Without diagnosing your instruments, I'd concur with relic that your likely next suspect is the voltage regulator or printed circuit board. I also agree that if you're going in, go deep and get it all done in one go as he suggests. I'm just saying that's a big step and expensive.

 

My preference has been to diagnose when I can and avoid "shotgunning" electrical problems, though it may be faster to do the latter.

 

Electrical problems are a bummer as everyone here can attest. Do yourself a favor and learn how to debug them. Get a color wiring diagram and become familiar with it.

 

My $.02,

Tom

[foothilltom 33]

Relic's experience is definitely fresh and his situation is quite similar to yours, so I'm inclined to not stir the pot much more, but I'm thinking you have at least 2 separate problems:

 

1. Non-working dash lights

2. Non-working instruments

 

The root of these problems are, unfortunately, not always the same. The most cost-effective solution is to diagnose them separately and fix only what you find to be broken. This is not always the most satisfying or time-effective as it takes some skill with a meter and fundamental knowledge of wiring/electricity.

 

By the way, it would be VERY helpful to know what *does* work in terms of electrical stuff (signals, flashers, head lights, dome lights, marker lights, brakes, etc.) to give us a sense of scope.

 

In any case, PaleRider has a great point about the headlamp switch. This baby controls about 5 different circuits (though not the instruments themselves) and I've had to replace the switch in both of my coupes. The little twisty resistor thing can go bad quite easily and render your dash lights inoperative. It also happens to have the luxury of being relatively cheap and easy to replace.

 

So I would agree with PaleRider on that score.

 

Without diagnosing your instruments, I'd concur with relic that your likely next suspect is the voltage regulator or printed circuit board. I also agree that if you're going in, go deep and get it all done in one go as he suggests. I'm just saying that's a big step and expensive.

 

My preference has been to diagnose when I can and avoid "shotgunning" electrical problems, though it may be faster to do the latter.

 

Electrical problems are a bummer as everyone here can attest. Do yourself a favor and learn how to debug them. Get a color wiring diagram and become familiar with it.

 

My $.02,

Tom

[jimmystang 13]

You can do as relic says and still not fix your problem. A lot of people throw parts at cars when it may not be necessary. You should definitely earth out your fuel sender wire, your temp sender wire and the oil pressure wire first. See what that tells you, as it is important to go the easiest option first.

If the gauges do nothing then it is time to remove the cluster.

Then firstly check for a power feed to the cluster. After that is confirmed then test your CVR and the printed circuit. Thest things are very easy to test with an Ohm meter & test light.

Good luck.

[jimmystang 13]

You can do as relic says and still not fix your problem. A lot of people throw parts at cars when it may not be necessary. You should definitely earth out your fuel sender wire, your temp sender wire and the oil pressure wire first. See what that tells you, as it is important to go the easiest option first.

If the gauges do nothing then it is time to remove the cluster.

Then firstly check for a power feed to the cluster. After that is confirmed then test your CVR and the printed circuit. Thest things are very easy to test with an Ohm meter & test light.

Good luck.

[panteramatt 1]

Thanx guys and as Jimmy put it, I dont want to just throw parts at it as a headlight switch, circuit board, and vr are expnesive. Anyone know if the 70 headligth switch will work as they are 1/2 the price. Im looking at cj pony parts for parts, anyone know anywhere else to get them cheaper? Can you test the gauges and lights with it out of the panel or does it need to be grounded to the panel to work?

[panteramatt 1]

Thanx guys and as Jimmy put it, I dont want to just throw parts at it as a headlight switch, circuit board, and vr are expnesive. Anyone know if the 70 headligth switch will work as they are 1/2 the price. Im looking at cj pony parts for parts, anyone know anywhere else to get them cheaper? Can you test the gauges and lights with it out of the panel or does it need to be grounded to the panel to work?

[panteramatt 1]

Oh, and the only thing that works are the ignition and shifter light. NO other lights work and no gauges. I just got the car.

[panteramatt 1]

Oh, and the only thing that works are the ignition and shifter light. NO other lights work and no gauges. I just got the car.

[69RavenConv 286]

+1 on Jimmy's advice. If 12V power feed is missing, nothing else you do is going to help. Take a look at these drawings. Start at the battery/solenoid on page 2 and work your way back thru the harness to see where the 12V goes.

 

http://1969stang.com/main/content/view/75/42/

 

You can test the gauges and lights out of the car with a bench power supply or a spare 12V battery but you need to be very careful.

Edited March 17, 2010 by 69RavenConv

[69RavenConv 286]

+1 on Jimmy's advice. If 12V power feed is missing, nothing else you do is going to help. Take a look at these drawings. Start at the battery/solenoid on page 2 and work your way back thru the harness to see where the 12V goes.

 

http://1969stang.com/main/content/view/75/42/

 

You can test the gauges and lights out of the car with a bench power supply or a spare 12V battery but you need to be very careful.

Edited March 17, 2010 by 69RavenConv

[relic1864 10]

Ok you bought an old car. Then you knew it was going to need fixing up and cost money. There is no need to try parts from other years that MIGHT work. Go ahead and order the correct parts to fix the problem. These parts are not that expensive. Instrument voltage regulator is high 30 dollar to low 40 dollar range, circuit board is under 40 dollars, if you want a new light switch and I put one on just to rule out some problem that could have been even tho I might not have needed a new on. It was around 45 dollars. And light bulbs LED for all dash lights around 45 dollars. Get the new parts, get it done right the first time and you will save time and money in the long run. Being cheap on fixing up your car will only lead to problems. So if you buy the new correct parts in the long run you will save money and have the satasfaction knowing things you have replaced are new and wont be another problem.

[relic1864 10]

Ok you bought an old car. Then you knew it was going to need fixing up and cost money. There is no need to try parts from other years that MIGHT work. Go ahead and order the correct parts to fix the problem. These parts are not that expensive. Instrument voltage regulator is high 30 dollar to low 40 dollar range, circuit board is under 40 dollars, if you want a new light switch and I put one on just to rule out some problem that could have been even tho I might not have needed a new on. It was around 45 dollars. And light bulbs LED for all dash lights around 45 dollars. Get the new parts, get it done right the first time and you will save time and money in the long run. Being cheap on fixing up your car will only lead to problems. So if you buy the new correct parts in the long run you will save money and have the satasfaction knowing things you have replaced are new and wont be another problem.

[panteramatt 1]

Ok, so I tore the dash out tonight and did some testing. I have power going to the courtesy lights but they are all blown. I also noticed that the high beam light in the dash works. I tested the dash plug and the top 3 right side pins light up with my tester and a couple others light up once the ignition is on so I am getting power to the cluster. All the bulbs in the cluster are good also.

[panteramatt 1]

Ok, so I tore the dash out tonight and did some testing. I have power going to the courtesy lights but they are all blown. I also noticed that the high beam light in the dash works. I tested the dash plug and the top 3 right side pins light up with my tester and a couple others light up once the ignition is on so I am getting power to the cluster. All the bulbs in the cluster are good also.

[panteramatt 1]

Relic, where do you get that Im being cheap? I just spent $600 on CORRECT good parts for my car that I barely have. You mean to tell me that throwing $ into the car for parts that it might not need is smart? COME ON!!! Id rather do the work to figure what is wrong than just replace things that dont need it. For all that, why dont I just replace the whole damn car!!!

[panteramatt 1]

Relic, where do you get that Im being cheap? I just spent $600 on CORRECT good parts for my car that I barely have. You mean to tell me that throwing $ into the car for parts that it might not need is smart? COME ON!!! Id rather do the work to figure what is wrong than just replace things that dont need it. For all that, why dont I just replace the whole damn car!!!

[PaleRider 12]

Still leaning toward headlight switch. I think if you are on a limited budget - i'd try that next - maybe able to return if not needed - check with CJ on policy on electrical parts. I'm a believer in finding the problem first also. But get caught up a lot in "while I'm at it". When I had my cluster out I changed circuit board, dash lenses, went LED, and painted plastic housing. It all depends on what type of budget you have - and plans for the car (long time keeper vs enjoy & sell). I've had cluster out many times - you get pretty good at it after awhile - can always do other things later.

Edited March 18, 2010 by PaleRider

[PaleRider 12]

Still leaning toward headlight switch. I think if you are on a limited budget - i'd try that next - maybe able to return if not needed - check with CJ on policy on electrical parts. I'm a believer in finding the problem first also. But get caught up a lot in "while I'm at it". When I had my cluster out I changed circuit board, dash lenses, went LED, and painted plastic housing. It all depends on what type of budget you have - and plans for the car (long time keeper vs enjoy & sell). I've had cluster out many times - you get pretty good at it after awhile - can always do other things later.

Edited March 18, 2010 by PaleRider