no instrument lights on my 69

[panteramatt 1]

I used a test light on my fuse panel and it showed that all the fuses were good except the little one. It wont light up with the key on or off. It looks like the panel says its a 4amp for intrument lights which might explain why none of my interior light work. Fuse doesnt look like its blown. Could it be the fuse or the fuse panel or something else?

[panteramatt 1]

I used a test light on my fuse panel and it showed that all the fuses were good except the little one. It wont light up with the key on or off. It looks like the panel says its a 4amp for intrument lights which might explain why none of my interior light work. Fuse doesnt look like its blown. Could it be the fuse or the fuse panel or something else?

[PaleRider 12]

If no blopwn fuses - most likely headlight switch. Prety common ailment and an easy fix.

[PaleRider 12]

If no blopwn fuses - most likely headlight switch. Prety common ailment and an easy fix.

[panteramatt 1]

Anyway to check the switch cause I dont want ot waste $50. Can I jsut use a 1970 switch, I know they turn the parking lights on differently or something.

[panteramatt 1]

Anyway to check the switch cause I dont want ot waste $50. Can I jsut use a 1970 switch, I know they turn the parking lights on differently or something.

[panteramatt 1]

Also, none of the gauges work which makes me think its not the headlight switch. If the gauges dont work doesnt that mean that the voltage regulator in the cluster isnt working?

[panteramatt 1]

Also, none of the gauges work which makes me think its not the headlight switch. If the gauges dont work doesnt that mean that the voltage regulator in the cluster isnt working?

[foothilltom 33]

Hey Matt, have you pulled the fuse and used your meter to verify if its good? I don't know if you're just using a test light, but assuming you have a multi-meter, you should definitely check for continuity on the fuse itself. I don't know if "looks" alone is a good indicator.

 

I had a mystery with my lights long ago that was solved by removing the 4A fuse and cleaning the fuse panel contacts with sandpaper. The contacts had become corroded as were just not conducting.

 

I think I'd go this direction before I'd start replacing switches. You can certainly test your ignition switch easy enough, but you'd have to have a wiring diagram to know which should be hot coming in and going out.

 

Tom

[foothilltom 33]

Hey Matt, have you pulled the fuse and used your meter to verify if its good? I don't know if you're just using a test light, but assuming you have a multi-meter, you should definitely check for continuity on the fuse itself. I don't know if "looks" alone is a good indicator.

 

I had a mystery with my lights long ago that was solved by removing the 4A fuse and cleaning the fuse panel contacts with sandpaper. The contacts had become corroded as were just not conducting.

 

I think I'd go this direction before I'd start replacing switches. You can certainly test your ignition switch easy enough, but you'd have to have a wiring diagram to know which should be hot coming in and going out.

 

Tom

[panteramatt 1]

I have a multimeter yes. How do I test the fuse with it?

[panteramatt 1]

I have a multimeter yes. How do I test the fuse with it?

[foothilltom 33]

Put that baby to the Ohms setting (it may have a little greek Omega symbol). This setting uses the battery to send out a low amperage signal so be sure to turn it off when you're not using it.

 

Basically, you're now testing for resistance (continuity). If you touch the leads together, the meter should read 1 (no resistance). This means you have a complete circuit. If you put one lead on each side of the fuse, it should also read 0 if the fuse is good. Any other reading would indicate a high-resistance situation or a bad fuse.

 

You could do this test with the fuse installed as well by putting one lead on each side of the connectors that hold the fuse. Any resistance is bad here.

 

This setting is great for testing if switches are working and such.

 

Lemme know if you need more.

Tom

Edited March 15, 2010 by foothilltom

[foothilltom 33]

Put that baby to the Ohms setting (it may have a little greek Omega symbol). This setting uses the battery to send out a low amperage signal so be sure to turn it off when you're not using it.

 

Basically, you're now testing for resistance (continuity). If you touch the leads together, the meter should read 1 (no resistance). This means you have a complete circuit. If you put one lead on each side of the fuse, it should also read 0 if the fuse is good. Any other reading would indicate a high-resistance situation or a bad fuse.

 

You could do this test with the fuse installed as well by putting one lead on each side of the connectors that hold the fuse. Any resistance is bad here.

 

This setting is great for testing if switches are working and such.

 

Lemme know if you need more.

Tom

Edited March 15, 2010 by foothilltom

[Crazyhorse 21]

pull the fuse out, and set the meter to check continuity. touch 1 probe to each end of the fuse, if you have continuity it's good, if there is no continuity it is bad.

[Crazyhorse 21]

pull the fuse out, and set the meter to check continuity. touch 1 probe to each end of the fuse, if you have continuity it's good, if there is no continuity it is bad.

[relic1864 10]

I just went through this problem with my car. First off if no guages are working then you need to order a new instrument voltage regulator. Since you are going to have to take the dash pad off you might as well order a new circuit board because the origional will be pretty brittle from age. I also ordered all new light bulbs. I got the LED bulbs which are brighter. But First replace that little short 4 amp fuse and see if the dash lights start working again. Mine looked good but it wasn't I replaced the fuse and they started working. After you replace the instrument voltage regulator and the circuit board the guages should work unless one of the guage post is touching the metal dash housing. If one is touching none of the guages will work.I also put black electrical tape all around the openings where the dash post fit through. Let me tell you now its no fun replacing things and they still dont work. So get all the items you need ordered and then start working on it. I also went ahead and put a new light swith in too. I wish I had ordered all new dash guage lens too. The old ones are kinda dull from age. Any problems get back with me.

[relic1864 10]

I just went through this problem with my car. First off if no guages are working then you need to order a new instrument voltage regulator. Since you are going to have to take the dash pad off you might as well order a new circuit board because the origional will be pretty brittle from age. I also ordered all new light bulbs. I got the LED bulbs which are brighter. But First replace that little short 4 amp fuse and see if the dash lights start working again. Mine looked good but it wasn't I replaced the fuse and they started working. After you replace the instrument voltage regulator and the circuit board the guages should work unless one of the guage post is touching the metal dash housing. If one is touching none of the guages will work.I also put black electrical tape all around the openings where the dash post fit through. Let me tell you now its no fun replacing things and they still dont work. So get all the items you need ordered and then start working on it. I also went ahead and put a new light swith in too. I wish I had ordered all new dash guage lens too. The old ones are kinda dull from age. Any problems get back with me.

[panteramatt 1]

Thanx guys. I checked the fuse and its no good. Looks good but no continuity. So ill replace it and hopefully the light will work and I wont need a headlight switch. Then

I need to pull the dash out and find out about the gauges. Wheres the best and cheapest place to get the led lights and they are just a direct swap right?

[panteramatt 1]

Thanx guys. I checked the fuse and its no good. Looks good but no continuity. So ill replace it and hopefully the light will work and I wont need a headlight switch. Then

I need to pull the dash out and find out about the gauges. Wheres the best and cheapest place to get the led lights and they are just a direct swap right?

[relic1864 10]

I got mine from Mustangs Unlimited I believe. They come in a pack for the whole dash. I ordered green with white for blinkers and high beam. they also come in blue red or yellow. They are pretty high about 40.00. for the set but they are alot brighter. But if you have your dash out and are going to do this you need to get everything you want done because taking out the dash once is ok but taking it out several times is no fun.

[relic1864 10]

I got mine from Mustangs Unlimited I believe. They come in a pack for the whole dash. I ordered green with white for blinkers and high beam. they also come in blue red or yellow. They are pretty high about 40.00. for the set but they are alot brighter. But if you have your dash out and are going to do this you need to get everything you want done because taking out the dash once is ok but taking it out several times is no fun.

[panteramatt 1]

Any steps to taking the dash out?

[panteramatt 1]

Any steps to taking the dash out?

[foothilltom 33]

Matt, did the fuse solve your instrument light issue? Last we checked in with our hero, you said the fuse was bad, but did you get a new one yet? If so, do you have lights?

 

With all due respect to relic, I would probably do some additional tests on my instruments before tearing my dash apart (because that is no fun at all). Relic may be 100% right about the voltage regular being bad, but it would be nice to rule some things out.

 

Have you tried any tests on, say, your fuel gauge? Have you tried grounding the wire at the sending unit to the body (with the key on) and see if your needle pegs? That would prove that you have power to your instruments and tend to rule out a bad regulator.

 

I guess I'm suggesting you do some additional voltage tests on your instruments before you go taking your dash apart, but that's just me.

 

If you do go that direction, just go slow. The dash pad has to come off first and that is tricky business given how fragile they generally are. There are no real tricks except to make sure you find all the sheet metal screws before you start horsing things off.

 

Good luck,

Tom