69 mach 408w build

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Looks awesome!!!!:thumbup1:

[Rudolph Schenker 14]

Looks awesome!!!!:thumbup1:

[69SlowResto 19]

Looks great so far!

[69SlowResto 19]

Looks great so far!

[stangme428 33]

nice ... very nice.... :tongue_smilie:

[stangme428 33]

nice ... very nice.... :tongue_smilie:

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

everything is scuffed, cleaned, masked and ready for the semigloss on the rockers and engine compartment.

 

the weather isn't cooperating, but it looks like monday is going to be low 70's and sunny. i can't wait, since this is the only thing keeping me from getting the car off the dolly and bolting on the suspension.

 

anyone headed to Indianapolis for the NHRA nationals?

 

 

[Junior2561 10]

getting paint on it has to feel awesome.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

getting paint on it has to feel awesome.

 

absolutely.

[Junior2561 10]

realistically, this thing could be on the road next summer?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

that's probably overly aggressive. i have the pieces, parts, assemblies (still need a rag joint) to make the car a roller and drive down the road illegally. after that point i'm sure there will be some items that i need to start working on. i'm also sure i'll have a couple of unforseen setbacks.

 

my head is basically focused on the next stage which is just getting it on it's own suspension. achievable milestones...

[Silver_69_Coupe 31]

I know what you mean. I have had at tons of Hours in those unforeseen setbacks. you get on one thing that you think will take a few hours and you are still working on it a week later.

 

I did that on my wiring. I thought it would take a weekend and it took 2.5 weeks and is only to the point that I can start the car and Move it up and down the driveway.

 

Or doing some thing to save a few bucks only to realize it cost you 10 times as much when you are done with it.

 

How long does it really take to polish up those accessories. 4 hours or is it more like 30 Hours. Oh yeah then oops. You are about done and you slip with the sander and all that work is now lost to a deep grove. I am on my second alternator Housing.

 

This is my first complete and I am realizing. One step at a time. Keep an eye on the end goal but do not put a time frame on it or you will get discouraged very fast. I wanted to drive my Stang this spring but summer is almost over and I still have a long way to go. Take an occasional step back to look at the whole thing. But doing "Next!!" is the best way to go. It is not 1 Project but a collection of small projects and I use the small projects to measure my milestone. Only looking at the whole end goal when I complete a small project. But you have to keep the big finish in mind or you will inadvertently do project y before x. And really screw things up and have to go back and fix y after x is done. Or worse yet figure out that y makes x not work at all and it is back to the drawing board.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

completely agree. if all i could think about was driving the car, i would be terribly discouraged and given up years ago...

[Junior2561 10]

Great advice.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

small window of opportunity to paint before the storms. had to do it late to allow the temps to drop into the low 80's/70's.

 

 

[Fordrevhead 29]

So you painted just the spot weld portion of the rocker the engine bay color? Is that correct? Are you going with the mach 1 rocker molding? just curious, thanks.

[Junior2561 10]

Looks good

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

So you painted just the spot weld portion of the rocker the engine bay color? Is that correct? Are you going with the mach 1 rocker molding? just curious, thanks.

 

yep. basically painted the spot weld portion. it is correct and i am going with the 69 mach 1 rocker molding.

 

since this has been a sensitive subject in the past, i thought i would post a clip from the 69 Ford Body assembly manual (page 30).

 

lighter colored cars get painted. seems most cars don't get it when repainted. probably because few people realize it. once you know about it, it can stick out like a sore thumb, especially on light colored cars.

 

technically i should have oversprayed and hit the from rails and some of the torque boxes.

 

 

 

here is a pic of my undercarriage before i media blasted. you can see a little red overspray and the black overspray.

 

 

now it's a little harder to see the welds...

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

sprayed two coats of reduced black DP epoxy. the color of the epoxy was pretty close to the black i flattened.

 

i then sprayed two coats of black. i added about 35% flattener to the gloss black. it seems i was adding about 20 to 25% for a lot of the black piece parts. this looks like it will give a little bit of contrast to the parts.

 

i used the 3M cups on the gun. that was a lifesaver. it's kind of difficult to paint in the engine compartment and all kinds of strange gun angles. thankfully i'm 6'2" which helps.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 4, 2011 by BuckeyeDemon

[Fordrevhead 29]

Nice, it looks great. Thanks for that I have that manual but am long from needing it, lol. I dont know as I will go to such detail... for example leaving the spring area red oxide and such. Since mine is a coupe, and I am changing most everything, who cares. I like the black rocker look there though, especially with the mach rocker molding! :punk:

[Grabber70Mach 107]

Very nice. :drool: :drool: :001_cool:

[RogerC 136]

Looking good. My coupe, which is originally aztec aqua, had the weld flange on the rockers painted black.

[Angel 24]

Was the red oxide on the outer shock towers only for mach1's? Because my coupe had it all black.

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Was the red oxide on the outer shock towers only for mach1's? Because my coupe had it all black.

 

 

this is not model specific.

 

from what i understand (been awhile since i did the research), it was highly dependent on the person. so it could vary from day to day, or car to car. i'm assuming it was an assembly line, so there would only be so much time to paint. if they were feeling motivated, then maybe they sprayed the entire side.

 

this area should get a layer of sound deadener, so most of it would get covered up. the Body Assembly manual is pretty loose on how it's sprayed. the painter just needs to make sure everything is covered such that after the sound deadener, no body color/overspray can be seen through the wheel opening.

 

here are some pics that i had found awhile back:

 

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/69-70%20Mustang%20Pics/?action=view&current=69DSinnerapron-early.jpg

 

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/69-70%20Mustang%20Pics/?action=view&current=69DSinnerapron-late.jpg

 

do you have a picture of yours? was it ever repainted in the past? did you remove the paint/sound deadener in layers to find out what was all there?

 

this is one photo of mine a long time ago...

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

it took less than 1.5 days to lug all the parts from the house to the garage and get the car on its own suspension.

 

the rear end assembly was in the spare bedroom of the house. i had assembled it in the house in stages and the final product is pretty heavy. i managed to get it out of the house and installed without incident.

 

i've already found two gotcha's that i'll have to deal with.