Stanger69 16 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 (edited) Thanks to streetking I was able to get 295/35/18s on the rear. Now, anyone have some ideas on lowering car. I have the 5 leaf shelby springs with standard eye and 1 and a half lowering block. I still need to go another 2-3 inches. Thank guys. Edited January 16, 2010 by Stanger69 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
7TCatvert 24 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 I have a set of 3 inch lowering blocks ....I think I paid 60 sell them for 40 shipping included...... That is a great looking stang looks familar...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Secz 26 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 I personally would be weary of using 3" lowering blocks. I'm no engineer but I would think that would put a lot of stress on the elongated U-bolts that would be required. Keep in mind it doesn't take much to bend or sheer a U-bolt. My recommendation would be to opt for different leaf springs. You can stick with 5 leaf but go with a mid-eye spring for 1" drop or reverse-eye for an even lower drop approx. 1 1/2 " - 2". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
7TCatvert 24 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 Sorry mine are 2" not 3" ......I agree 3 is probably to much better to switch the leaf springs to reverse eye with the drop blocks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PaleRider 12 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 7TCatvert - vey nice convertible - do you have any pics of rear end. Think of getting a vert for my next proj car - had written off 69 - but I think I'm changing my mind. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
7TCatvert 24 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stanger69 16 Report post Posted January 16, 2010 thanks guys. With the amount of torque, it's probably best to go with the mid eye leaf. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flight96 14 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 Where did you get the stripe kit from? Im thinking of doing the same thing to my vert . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boogerschnot 12 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 If you are going to replace the springs and want to go that far down you may as well go with the reverse eye. I put on mid eyes and 17's and still want to go down about 1.5-2 inches in the rear Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
7TCatvert 24 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 Where did you get the stripe kit from? Im thinking of doing the same thing to my vert . ebay Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stanger69 16 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 If you are going to replace the springs and want to go that far down you may as well go with the reverse eye. I put on mid eyes and 17's and still want to go down about 1.5-2 inches in the rear Thanks, do you have before and after pics of the car. I agree with you, I think the reverse eye is best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted January 17, 2010 I have reversed eyes and 3 inch blocks. Running 255/45/17 tires they don't rub at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buening 63 Report post Posted January 18, 2010 If you have an old set of leaf springs, you can dial in your own rear ride height my adding/shortening leafs like done in the link below. Forget lowering blocks, this is the best way to get that ride height that you want ;) http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ForceFed70 14 Report post Posted January 19, 2010 A 3" block will be fine from a u-bolt/breakage perspective. You should see the lift blocks that some guys use in 4x4's. Any kind of lowering block is going to greatly increase wheelhop. The larger the block, the more wheelhop. With a 3" block, I would think wheelhop would be horrific if no traction bars are used. I reccomed you purchase reverse eye springs. Install them as is and run it for a season to give the springs a chance to settle. THEN install a lowering block if required. Maybe your old ones... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jgstang 21 Report post Posted January 19, 2010 here is my 69 vert lowered with 2" lowering spindles and 2" lowering blocks with 17"s.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stanger69 16 Report post Posted June 3, 2010 JG, man that is a nice looking stang. Show us more pics of your convert. Is that a shaker I see or is that my dirty screen. What size tires you running on those 17's. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69shelbycoupe 11 Report post Posted June 5, 2010 7Tcatvert, I'll take those lowering blocks off your hands. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
unfrozen1969 11 Report post Posted June 6, 2010 I would love to see some photos of the suspensions that you guys are speaking of, so that we know what you are talking about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stanger69 16 Report post Posted June 8, 2010 Who makes solid 2"-3" lowering blocks...thanks guys. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted June 10, 2010 Another way to lower it is to use Mustang II rear springs that are slightly shorter in overall length and rear sliders. You will need to re-drill the centering pin to locate the rear end correctly. Lay the two springs side by side and put a bolt through the front. Use a carpenter's square (or speed square) to locate the hole in the same place as the original spring. Then lay the two MII springs side by side and scribe a line to make them match. Use a center punch to mark the center of the spring and drill them out. The MII springs will need a leaf from the original springs to help stiffen them up. Remove the rear spring shackles and replace them with a pair sliders from one of the circle track catalogs. Before you weld everything up, make sure that the slider has about 1/3rd of it's travel ahead of the spring eye and 2/3rds behind it when the weight is on the spring. The reason you want more room in back is so that it can compress without hitting the end of travel. If it's moving forward, the rear has come up off the ground and the only weight on the spring is the rear end itself (plus the wheels of course). The reasons I went through all this trouble are that 1) not only do you get a very low ride height without resorting to lowering blocks, but 2) you also get a nice linear rate out of the springs because they won't bind like they will in a shackle and 3) you can use a traction bar like Comp Eliminators or Caltracs that won't work with mid or reverse eye springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69gmachine 15 Report post Posted June 10, 2010 Another way to lower it is to use Mustang II rear springs that are slightly shorter in overall length and rear sliders. You will need to re-drill the centering pin to locate the rear end correctly. Lay the two springs side by side and put a bolt through the front. Use a carpenter's square (or speed square) to locate the hole in the same place as the original spring. Then lay the two MII springs side by side and scribe a line to make them match. Use a center punch to mark the center of the spring and drill them out. The MII springs will need a leaf from the original springs to help stiffen them up. Remove the rear spring shackles and replace them with a pair sliders from one of the circle track catalogs. Before you weld everything up, make sure that the slider has about 1/3rd of it's travel ahead of the spring eye and 2/3rds behind it when the weight is on the spring. The reason you want more room in back is so that it can compress without hitting the end of travel. If it's moving forward, the rear has come up off the ground and the only weight on the spring is the rear end itself (plus the wheels of course). The reasons I went through all this trouble are that 1) not only do you get a very low ride height without resorting to lowering blocks, but 2) you also get a nice linear rate out of the springs because they won't bind like they will in a shackle and 3) you can use a traction bar like Comp Eliminators or Caltracs that won't work with mid or reverse eye springs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted June 10, 2010 The Mustang II idea is interesting. We have a great local spring guy, I bet he could look up some specs and armed with the info make me a set... when I get around to that stage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordrevhead 29 Report post Posted June 10, 2010 The Mustang II idea is interesting. We have a great local spring guy, I bet he could look up some specs and armed with the info make me a set... when I get around to that stage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SELLERSRODSHOP 13 Report post Posted June 11, 2010 Who makes solid 2"-3" lowering blocks...thanks guys. i just made a couple sets of solid 2" blocks. heres a link to a tutorial on how to make them: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,7267.0.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SELLERSRODSHOP 13 Report post Posted June 11, 2010 Who makes solid 2"-3" lowering blocks...thanks guys. i just made a couple sets of solid 2" blocks. heres a link to a tutorial on how to make them: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,7267.0.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites