Lowering car

[Stanger69 16]

Thanks to streetking I was able to get 295/35/18s on the rear. Now, anyone have some ideas on lowering car. I have the 5 leaf shelby springs with standard eye and 1 and a half lowering block. I still need to go another 2-3 inches. Thank guys.

Edited January 16, 2010 by Stanger69

[7TCatvert 24]

I have a set of 3 inch lowering blocks ....I think I paid 60 sell them for 40 shipping included......

 

That is a great looking stang looks familar......

 

[Big Secz 26]

I personally would be weary of using 3" lowering blocks. I'm no engineer but I would think that would put a lot of stress on the elongated U-bolts that would be required. Keep in mind it doesn't take much to bend or sheer a U-bolt. My recommendation would be to opt for different leaf springs. You can stick with 5 leaf but go with a mid-eye spring for 1" drop or reverse-eye for an even lower drop approx. 1 1/2 " - 2".

[7TCatvert 24]

Sorry mine are 2" not 3" ......I agree 3 is probably to much better to switch the leaf springs to reverse eye with the drop blocks

[PaleRider 12]

7TCatvert - vey nice convertible - do you have any pics of rear end. Think of getting a vert for my next proj car - had written off 69 - but I think I'm changing my mind.

[7TCatvert 24]

[Stanger69 16]

thanks guys. With the amount of torque, it's probably best to go with the mid eye leaf.

[flight96 14]

Where did you get the stripe kit from? Im thinking of doing the same thing to my vert .

[Boogerschnot 12]

If you are going to replace the springs and want to go that far down you may as well go with the reverse eye. I put on mid eyes and 17's and still want to go down about 1.5-2 inches in the rear

[7TCatvert 24]

Where did you get the stripe kit from? Im thinking of doing the same thing to my vert .

 

ebay

[Stanger69 16]

If you are going to replace the springs and want to go that far down you may as well go with the reverse eye. I put on mid eyes and 17's and still want to go down about 1.5-2 inches in the rear

Thanks, do you have before and after pics of the car. I agree with you, I think the reverse eye is best.

[EastYorkStang 63]

I have reversed eyes and 3 inch blocks. Running 255/45/17 tires they don't rub at all.

[buening 63]

If you have an old set of leaf springs, you can dial in your own rear ride height my adding/shortening leafs like done in the link below. Forget lowering blocks, this is the best way to get that ride height that you want ;)

 

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/544275-lowering-rear-car-w-o-blocks-long.html

[ForceFed70 14]

A 3" block will be fine from a u-bolt/breakage perspective. You should see the lift blocks that some guys use in 4x4's.

 

Any kind of lowering block is going to greatly increase wheelhop. The larger the block, the more wheelhop. With a 3" block, I would think wheelhop would be horrific if no traction bars are used.

 

I reccomed you purchase reverse eye springs. Install them as is and run it for a season to give the springs a chance to settle. THEN install a lowering block if required. Maybe your old ones...

[jgstang 21]

here is my 69 vert lowered with 2" lowering spindles and 2" lowering blocks with 17"s....

[Stanger69 16]

JG, man that is a nice looking stang. Show us more pics of your convert. Is that a shaker I see or is that my dirty screen. What size tires you running on those 17's.

[69shelbycoupe 11]

7Tcatvert,

 

I'll take those lowering blocks off your hands.

[unfrozen1969 11]

I would love to see some photos of the suspensions that you guys are speaking of, so that we know what you are talking about.

[Stanger69 16]

Who makes solid 2"-3" lowering blocks...thanks guys.

[69gmachine 15]

Another way to lower it is to use Mustang II rear springs that are slightly shorter in overall length and rear sliders. You will need to re-drill the centering pin to locate the rear end correctly.

 

Lay the two springs side by side and put a bolt through the front. Use a carpenter's square (or speed square) to locate the hole in the same place as the original spring. Then lay the two MII springs side by side and scribe a line to make them match. Use a center punch to mark the center of the spring and drill them out. The MII springs will need a leaf from the original springs to help stiffen them up.

 

Remove the rear spring shackles and replace them with a pair sliders from one of the circle track catalogs. Before you weld everything up, make sure that the slider has about 1/3rd of it's travel ahead of the spring eye and 2/3rds behind it when the weight is on the spring. The reason you want more room in back is so that it can compress without hitting the end of travel. If it's moving forward, the rear has come up off the ground and the only weight on the spring is the rear end itself (plus the wheels of course).

 

The reasons I went through all this trouble are that 1) not only do you get a very low ride height without resorting to lowering blocks, but 2) you also get a nice linear rate out of the springs because they won't bind like they will in a shackle and 3) you can use a traction bar like Comp Eliminators or Caltracs that won't work with mid or reverse eye springs.

[69gmachine 15]

Another way to lower it is to use Mustang II rear springs that are slightly shorter in overall length and rear sliders. You will need to re-drill the centering pin to locate the rear end correctly.

 

Lay the two springs side by side and put a bolt through the front. Use a carpenter's square (or speed square) to locate the hole in the same place as the original spring. Then lay the two MII springs side by side and scribe a line to make them match. Use a center punch to mark the center of the spring and drill them out. The MII springs will need a leaf from the original springs to help stiffen them up.

 

Remove the rear spring shackles and replace them with a pair sliders from one of the circle track catalogs. Before you weld everything up, make sure that the slider has about 1/3rd of it's travel ahead of the spring eye and 2/3rds behind it when the weight is on the spring. The reason you want more room in back is so that it can compress without hitting the end of travel. If it's moving forward, the rear has come up off the ground and the only weight on the spring is the rear end itself (plus the wheels of course).

 

The reasons I went through all this trouble are that 1) not only do you get a very low ride height without resorting to lowering blocks, but 2) you also get a nice linear rate out of the springs because they won't bind like they will in a shackle and 3) you can use a traction bar like Comp Eliminators or Caltracs that won't work with mid or reverse eye springs.

[Fordrevhead 29]

The Mustang II idea is interesting. We have a great local spring guy, I bet he could look up some specs and armed with the info make me a set... when I get around to that stage.

[Fordrevhead 29]

The Mustang II idea is interesting. We have a great local spring guy, I bet he could look up some specs and armed with the info make me a set... when I get around to that stage.

[SELLERSRODSHOP 13]

Who makes solid 2"-3" lowering blocks...thanks guys.

 

i just made a couple sets of solid 2" blocks. heres a link to a tutorial on how to make them:

 

 

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,7267.0.html

[SELLERSRODSHOP 13]

Who makes solid 2"-3" lowering blocks...thanks guys.

 

i just made a couple sets of solid 2" blocks. heres a link to a tutorial on how to make them:

 

 

http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,7267.0.html