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69shaker

69 Mach 1 Introduction

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I have been on this site for a year now, so I figured it was time to finally post. I have had my Mustang for a year now, but only had an opportunity to drive it twice before I deployed.

 

The plan was to install a new suspension and brakes while I was gone, but it ended up turning into a full restoration due to rust and shoddy prior work.

 

No%20Floor%20Pan.jpg

 

 

HPIM1266%20Stitch.jpg

 

HPIM1313.jpg

 

The car is finally off the framing machine (frame rails replaced, back end was way off square) and is now getting ready for paint (Ford Silver Metallic).

 

 

HPIM1317.jpg

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Looks like a Jet on thats rack! Fast looking even while apart!

 

Can you give us a ball park on how much you spent?

1. for the car

2. for the parts so far

3. estimated future parts

4. Labor

 

Thanks!

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Welcome to the hobby, kind of like a baptism by fire eh? The Domino affect has changed the plans of many a new owner who thought that they had a more solid car than they did and wanted to just make a simple upgrade. Don't fret though, it gets worse. Once you have a smooth shiny new body all those other mildly worn parts that seemed good enough suddenly look alot worse in comparison and slowly everything has to be just as new and, well, you get the picture.

 

Good Luck and no matter what, enjoy every second of it!

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Once you have a smooth shiny new body all those other mildly worn parts that seemed good enough suddenly look alot worse in comparison and slowly everything has to be just as new and, well, you get the picture.

Thats what worries me!

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Cost is way more than I want to admit, but I originally bought the car for $15k. I knew it needed some work, but once you start tearing the car down it makes more sense to do it right the first time.

 

Major Parts:

 

Floor pan

Rear Quarters

Wheel Housings

TCP G-Link Rear Suspension

TCP Front Coilovers

TCP Rack and Pinion

TCP Sway Bar

13" Baer Brakes front and rear

Vintage Wheel Works 45 17x7 front 17 x 8 rear

Weiand X-Cellarator Intake (351C 4V)

MSD Distributor

Holley 750 Vacuum secondary carb

Dyanmat Extreme

 

You can do the math on the parts and it gets pretty expensive. I did get some good deals on the TCP pieces, and bought most of the metal during a 25% sale.

 

Labor hasn't been horrible since the shop is doing it at $50 / hour, but it has been in the shop for the last 10 months averaging 30-40 hours a labor a month.

 

I am just looking forward to driving it again. It was suppose to be done in Oct 08 but know it looks like June of this year.

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Cost is way more than I want to admit, but I originally bought the car for $15k. I knew it needed some work, but once you start tearing the car down it makes more sense to do it right the first time.

 

Thanks! I bet this happens to many of us! I am just looking for the best road for me. I am thinking about getting the Dynacorn body and then build it with everything I want in the car!

Can you give me a ball park for the parts and labor? (I don't want to judje you or anyone else but we do love these cars. I just want to conclude if it is in my best interest to buy the Dynacorn) Feel free to Private Message me and I will keep your $$ spent private.

Thanks!

Sorry to Hi-jack your post.

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I will be about 60-70k for total parts, labor and paint when it is all said and done.

 

The car is finally media blasted and is finishing up getting ready for paint. Hopefully be done in a couple of months.

 

HPIM1335.jpg

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Finally done with all the sheetmetal work (about the only thing original left is the roof, firewall and passenger side shock tower) and is getting prepped for paint. It is Hopefully only another 4-6 months left and I can finally drive it again.

 

 

DSC00021.jpg

 

DSC00023.jpg

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The suspension is what started the whole project. When I bought it a year and half ago I originally planned to make it a daily driver and just add the TCP G-Link 4 Bar suspension and front coilovers. That is when the frame damage was found and the project snowballed into the complete restoration.

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Nice work, just focus on the results not the cost that's how a car guy survives.

 

Koby , just come out west and get a rust free or nearly rust free driver quality car for what a Dynacorn body would cost. not only will you save money but when you're done you'll have a real classic Mustang not a Hong Kong want to be.

 

I've said this before and I'll say it again, there are plenty of cars out west needing nothing but a few little patch panels in the rear quarters or trunk floor if even that for a decent price, if you don't believe me watch Craigslist and see for yourself. If you find a rust bucket out here it's either from the coastline or been brought in from the rust belt, my Mach 1 had less than 1 sq foot of rust in the whole car and that's the most of any of my cars. I should post some pics of my '70 Superbee I have stripped to bare metal right now and there is not one speck of rust anywhere. honestly, shop around before you buy a fake when all you have to do is look in the right places.

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Nice job on the car. I'm planning to have my car media blasted also. Did you have the interior blasted? If so is it already painted? I see you have it masked off in the picture above and was just curious. My car is body color on the interior metal.

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