Door glass question

[pikk 10]

69 has two types of door glasses. 69- early 70 (before 10/69) glue-in window or late 70 (after 10/69) bolt in window. has anybody experience with that and tell what is the difference between these two.

[pikk 10]

69 has two types of door glasses. 69- early 70 (before 10/69) glue-in window or late 70 (after 10/69) bolt in window. has anybody experience with that and tell what is the difference between these two.

[Alvin D Morava 2]

Bottom of the glass is flat for glue in, bolt in have extra section that protrudes down so they can be bolted on, if you remove your door panel you will know right away

[Alvin D Morava 2]

Bottom of the glass is flat for glue in, bolt in have extra section that protrudes down so they can be bolted on, if you remove your door panel you will know right away

[SM69Mach 68]

I had glue in on mine and switched to the 70 style Bolt in windows, from advice from this site, and honestly, one of the best mods I ever did on my car.

[SM69Mach 68]

I had glue in on mine and switched to the 70 style Bolt in windows, from advice from this site, and honestly, one of the best mods I ever did on my car.

[bnickel 10,004]

i swapped my car over to the 70 style bolt in windows many, many years ago and have say that i will do it on my cougar as well, even though the cougar still has all the original date coded glass in it.

[bnickel 10,004]

i swapped my car over to the 70 style bolt in windows many, many years ago and have say that i will do it on my cougar as well, even though the cougar still has all the original date coded glass in it.

[pikk 10]

thanks. what other parts i have to change to swap from glue to bolt? in case i have glue-ine, of course :)

[pikk 10]

thanks. what other parts i have to change to swap from glue to bolt? in case i have glue-ine, of course :)

[SM69Mach 68]

You would need to get a set of windows brackets. You could source them used or buy them new from NPD. Kinda pricey, but nice pieces.

[SM69Mach 68]

You would need to get a set of windows brackets. You could source them used or buy them new from NPD. Kinda pricey, but nice pieces.

[10yearsgone 15]

Here is a link from CJ Pony Parts that has some detail/steps on the conversion. The bracket set from CJ is abou $260 which includes shipping and handling. http://www.cjponyparts.com/NewTechDoorGlass.aspx

 

As SM69Mach said, NPD also carries it. The NPD bracket part number is 23288-3A

 

NPDLink | National Parts Depot

 

You can also find them on Ebay, but they are going for virtually the same price. In the last few months I've seen a set go for $249, $215, and a driver side only for $96.

 

By the way, if anyone has an extra driver side let me know.

[10yearsgone 15]

Here is a link from CJ Pony Parts that has some detail/steps on the conversion. The bracket set from CJ is abou $260 which includes shipping and handling. http://www.cjponyparts.com/NewTechDoorGlass.aspx

 

As SM69Mach said, NPD also carries it. The NPD bracket part number is 23288-3A

 

NPDLink | National Parts Depot

 

You can also find them on Ebay, but they are going for virtually the same price. In the last few months I've seen a set go for $249, $215, and a driver side only for $96.

 

By the way, if anyone has an extra driver side let me know.

[pikk 10]

read somewhere in forum that swaping from glue-in to bolt-in was the best modification/upgrade he ever made to his car. can anybody comment what makes (if at all) such huge difference and is it worth it (i mean it is going to cost: $400 for glasses, $250 for bracket kit, ??? transport to Europe + taxes + work) ? as for me, it does not matter how door windows go up and down ...

[bnickel 10,004]

read somewhere in forum that swaping from glue-in to bolt-in was the best modification/upgrade he ever made to his car. can anybody comment what makes (if at all) such huge difference and is it worth it (i mean it is going to cost: $400 for glasses, $250 for bracket kit, ??? transport to Europe + taxes + work) ? as for me, it does not matter how door windows go up and down ...

 

 

the glue in the glue in glass is prone to failure causing the glass to slip out of the track and fall down into the door, there are more modern adhesives made now that will prevent this from happening but getting the window placed back in the track correctly can sometimes be problematic and if the glass and the channel are not properly cleaned it will eventually happen again regardless of the glue used. the 70 bolt in glass is much more reliable since the glass is physically bolted to the track

[coz 108]

read somewhere in forum that swaping from glue-in to bolt-in was the best modification/upgrade he ever made to his car. can anybody comment what makes (if at all) such huge difference and is it worth it (i mean it is going to cost: $400 for glasses, $250 for bracket kit, ??? transport to Europe + taxes + work) ? as for me, it does not matter how door windows go up and down ...

 

That was probably me and I still stand by that. Brians post above mine states it perfectly. However, I went with a custom setup and not through CJ or NPD. I think they would be preferred.

[Pakrat 1,043]

I'll be the one to go against the grain then and say that nowadays this conversion is a total waste of good money unless you need to replace all your glass and tracks anyway or you get the whole set up for free from a donor car. The new windshield urethanes are far superior and there is absolutely no reason to do a half assed install and not clean and prep the surfaces well first, if done right they are more than permanent enough for the super tiny fraction of the cost to replace it all. Maybe I'm the only Mustang owner left without deep pockets or with still more items to buy on my car but I can think of a whole lot better ways to spend $700 - $1000 of my hard earned money.

 

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1318

[mikem 13]

I bought my 69 Sportsroof in April 2007. I noticed right away that the driver's door was floping around and sure enough, the glass had separated from the bracket. I bought the brackets and aftermarket new glass and installed. I cannot for the life of me align the glass far enough outward to allow the glass to roll down all the way. It hangs up on the inner window felt. I have the adjustment at the bottom of the doors all the way toward the inside of the door but it needs more to clear. I was advised to cut the tops and bottoms off the two vertical channel guides and weld them back on so that i had more room. Has anyone else had this problem and is this my only solution? I'm thinking about re-glueing the stock OEM window and trying that.

[69 Mustang GT 10]

I have a 69 but I did change to a 70 bolt in. I was getting new glass anyway an came across the brackets on e-bay for $50. But If you reglue your 69 glass in, Make sure you use polurathane glue for windshields and make sure you roll up the window to let it dry set where it needs to be. Reset your brackets at the bottom of the door to the center setting first, for future adjustment. It should last...........

[Pakrat 1,043]

Just for a reference as to why these windows have come unglued so seemingly often throughout history, one of the things that lead to failure of the door glass is that Ford only installed a stopper at the bottom center of the glass. So when you roll the window down to the stopper, you can accidentally apply more downword force that in essence pulls the brackets right off the glass. A simple fix to help eliminate this is to cut some 1 1/2" pieces of heater hose and wrap them around the vertical guides. Then, when the window is rolled down the brackets will hit them before the glass bottoms out on the center stopper.

 

[69RavenConv 286]

That's brilliant.

I have a set of 70 bolt-in's I bought years ago but I'm going to go with the original glue-in's on my convertible because, well, they're original (I figure I can alway convert later if the new glue fails)

I'm definitely gonna use this heater hose idea.

[bnickel 10,004]

if you have a problem with the window not going all the way down you can trim the rubber stop in the center of the door a little so it will come down more. and you don't actually have a problem anyway, ford designed them that for some unknown reason, mine were like that too and i have complete 70 doors on my car.

 

the only problem i have with keeping the glue in glass in the cougar is that i want to install aftermarket power windows and they require 70 model bolt in glass, so i will most likely be installing 70 glass in teh cougar at some point

[Pakrat 1,043]

the only problem i have with keeping the glue in glass in the cougar is that i want to install aftermarket power windows and they require 70 model bolt in glass, so i will most likely be installing 70 glass in teh cougar at some point

 

That's why they make universal kits as well, you aren't limited to just the kit made for Mustangs which even once you pay more money for them and convert the glass it still won't do the rear windows which is the biggest pain to do alone in the car.

[bnickel 10,004]

That's why they make universal kits as well, you aren't limited to just the kit made for Mustangs which even once you pay more money for them and convert the glass it still won't do the rear windows which is the biggest pain to do alone in the car.

 

ahh, but that's where you're wrong brutha, apparently the cougar has more room in the quarter panel right there than the stang does so there are kits for the rear windows for the coug.