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69 Coupe de jour

Clock repair

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This weekend I decided to work on my non operating clock. I took it out, looked great, contact points look good. Directly wired it to the battery and that son of a gone took off. I mean the second hand was spinning like crazy and 24 hours took about 1 minute!.The previous owner has the wiring screwed up so I was unable to get it working in the dash. Of course as soon as I put it back together the mail lady delivered my 69 Wiring manual. Any suggestions on the wiring of the clock? Does the instrument panel regulator control the voltage to the clock? any suggestions

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I've hooked a positive and negative wire straight from the car battery to test my clock. One of the posts on the clock specifically says "+", so run some short test wires with the clock in your hand and to the battery and see if it still does the same thing.

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There are only two regulators on a mustang. The voltage regulator under the hood that regulates the volts from the alternator, and the instrument constant voltage regulator and it only controls the fuel, temp, and oil pressure gauges. This clock wire is also a constant hot wire and isn't on a keyed source.

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The clock just runs off the normal 12 volts to its internal relay which in turn winds up the internal spring. The other wire is the map positive 12 volts for map lighting. Tachman can answer your questions or can take it apart yourself. I had to take mine apart to replace the clock lens. Dust gets in there and sometimes stops some of the gears. That may be what is happening to yours.

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I realize this is an old thread, but I am checking on why my clock is not working anymore. I tested the 3 connections where the main harness disconnects from the clock and map light. Of the 3 connections there, I only saw power on 1 of the 3. My map light works fine, so I was not sure if my clock is getting power. thoughts?

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The clock power feed comes off the two pin connector that the map light plugs into. Chances are the clock is the issue.

 

I clean, lubricate and adjust the mechanism as well as replace the points and repaint the hands and buff the lens for $40.00.

If your clock needs a part I have acquired a large inventory of parts over the years and can usually repair the movement.

Repairing the set mechanism is usually more difficult and expensive since most times another clock has to be sacrificed to repair yours.

 

If your clock is completely shot it may make more sense to replace the movement. I have repaired OEM movements I can install for $60. I have a few NOS movements as well, those are $100.

 

If you send the clock in for service and it turns out it is not worth saving then I can convert it to quartz for an additional $85, or return it to you with a $30 refund - I keep $10 for return postage.

Clock repairs have a two year warranty.

 

If you just want to convert the clock to quartz I do that for $125 - this includes painting the hands, buffing the lens (when applicable) and a lifetime warranty.

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I've refurbished about 2 dozen clock harnesses, and I'd say that 80% of them are bad with terrible crimps inside the molded two and three pin connectors. The wires make a tight loop immediately after exiting the molded plugs, putting stress on the crimps.

 

Before you send your good money to Rocketman, check to see if you have a good 12V at the clock input power point (green/yellow wire).

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OK. Thanks for the advice. So here is where things are at:

 

I used a electric light pen to test the connections. The map light works correctly.

 

Both light bulbs on the clock work correctly. And I get power on the underside of the clock connection to the wire harness. So I know there is power going to all the right places on this harness it seems.

 

But the clock doe not move. The time set works fine, I moved that around quite a bit to see if things would come to life, but nada.

 

So seems I need to get the clock worked on.

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OK, good diagnosis on the harness and clock.

The timer setting works so you have a functional and sound mechanism.

The clock is mechanical. The electrical input is only for the use of the 'winder'. The winder is two simple electrical contacts.

As the clock winds down, the contacts come together. When they are close enough to make electrical contact, the 'event' shoots the contacts apart, thereby rewinding the spring. Over and over, this keeps the clock wound and running.

 

For 40 bucks, I think Rcktman's service is a good deal. New points and service for a mechanical clock. Go for it. These old clocks are cool. And quite robust. Since you have all your power and globes, you just need a service on that clock.

 

They get dust bunnies and grime in the dash. The oil dries out. Gummed up, but still good.

 

You can try to lubricate it yourself and it might unclog the gum, and start running, but some parts of mechanical clocks must be dry, other parts must be oiled. You need to know what you are doing, or let a pro do it.

 

Good luck.

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