Solo2

Any old style open pit alignment shops will be able to do the alignment. There are many old timer's alignment shops in the dfw area. I use them many times before. Just let your fingers do the walking in the "yellow" pages under open pit alignment shops.

To answer you question, Yes, there are differences in model years. C4 '64 C4 '65-'66 C4 '67-'69 etc............... The only difference between the six and the eight will be in the torque convertor. Given that the C4 is the same year.

To answer you question, Yes, there are differences in model years. C4 '64 C4 '65-'66 C4 '67-'69 etc............... The only difference between the six and the eight will be in the torque convertor. Given that the C4 is the same year.

Go to Ford's website for more info on the head.

FYI When making catalogs it is always about a year before. The head is only purchased fully assembled. Things change since the catalog was printed a year ago.

All your questions will be answered by downloading their catalog: http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/catalogs.asp

FYI Here are the air flow numbers for the AFR 205 and my choice of a better head. This head is what I will use for my 408 stroker. BTW it is also the new head that is used on the new Ford Boss 302 racing crate motor, M-6049-Z304P. AFR 205 .200" 141 I 119 E .300" 201 I 170 E .400" 251 I 205 E .500" 291 I 221 E .550" 301 I 228 E M-6049-Z304P (Ford's New Boss 302 head) .200" 148.7 I 110.4 E .300" 225.3 I 158.8 E .400" 278.1 I 191.7 E .500" 314.1 I 221.5 E .550" 319.7 I 227.7 E

When you do not know the torque spces of a bolt. Use this site as your guide: http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.htm

Here is what I have on the 8910 from the archives: I hope that this works for you........ Finally, start with the engine won't shut off I had to add the diode to the wiring harness at the regulator as directions show to stop the feeback of the regulator energizing the msd. Works great now. (In it's most simple form we had to use the wiring diagram from the 8920 current tach and apply that to the 8910 adapter. After a few hours showing my buddy (Dale) the posts from here about the tach and the msd we were almost ready to go to the 8920 tach adapter and try that. The 8910 adapter diagram doesn't make sense to us and we had to treat the tach as a seperate circuit on it's own. In the end what we found was to disconnect the tach harness from the dash wiring, get another mating plug and supply ignition key power to the red wire on the tach wiring going to the tach. Then the blck wire coming out of the tach goes to the red wire of the 8910 tach adapter. From there the white wire goes from the tach adapter to the Tach output of the msd box. Another way which is basically the same is to leave your dash harness attached (because ignition power is there anyways) to the tach and the pink wire which is no longer used with the msd would be the one to go to the red wire of the adapter and from adapter to the tach output of the msd. Although I did not use this last method jumping from the pink wire which is a resistor wire may cause a problem with the tach working properly as I didn't try this method.) The wirig diagram for the 8910 uses the white wire from the msd ignition pickup to complete the circiut of the tach which I don't understand how that works, so we just ended up going from ignition through to tach through adapter to tach output on msd. Thanks to Dale for his help, as two heads can be better than one with these electrical gremlins and I hope this helps... The way I'm reading it, he's running it almost the way MSD says, but running the tach on a standalone circuit and not picking up the signal from the coil, but using the tach port. Basicly it looks like this: B+------->TACH<---------->R --[8910]-- W<-------->MSD tach port. Next time I'm at a parts store, I'll pick up an 8910 and check this out. It makes more sense to me than to pull the tach signal off the coil, which has multiple sparks below 3000 RPM. This multiple spark is why you use the tach port in the first place. My 6AL renders my Snap-On digital timing light useless, I have to use an old style dial back light.

I do not have any experience in using the msd unit & msd adapter with the tach. I only know this: Both Tachman and I agree, you need that resister wire to control the current going to the small transistors in the tach, otherwise they get to much current and burn up. More like a +$200 repair job for replacing the burnt transistors and diodes. My $0.02

Just to let everybody know, that back in '66, Ford had a tsb out for "longer" legged people that needed to move the seat back to make for additional leg room. I have sent this two page info on vmf many, many times and could send that info to you as well. Note: It might be the same info since I have sent this tsb info to so many people now. Just pm me with your email address. TSB 269, Additional leg room between steering wheel and driver's seat

Congrats on the konis. I know that they look nice on. Q: What setting for the front / rear did you start at?

Here is the better full length thread. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=2450&highlight=cleaner

Follow this thread. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/showtopic.php?tid/1452761/tp/1/

Here is that general "how to restore" book. http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/catalog/shop/item.asp?itemid=LT18