texas_snake

I have just added a new video on how to remove your instrument cluster on a 1969 or 1970 mustang. This is a follow up video I meant to add sometime back when I posted a video on removing the dash (look at that first if you are planning this job). Hopefully this will help you plan things out. https://youtu.be/XB79e5F8fgw Thanks, Doug.. As a side note, if you are looking to fix a turn signal light that may be out, you might need to plan on replacing the circuit board. I needed to. The edges lose their insulation (peel apart) over time.

I put together a 1969 / 1970 Mustang Door Panel Restoration How-To Video that will hopefully give you an idea of most of the parts involved with getting your door panel (deluxe interior) up to date. I also go over some of the key details on how to do the work. Hope this is informative for you. And I added my parts list to the video description if you need to find any of the parts. I used. I plan on a follow up on how to patch speaker holes in more detail. There are good videos on removal of the panel, so I did not cover that. https://youtu.be/pf7irrLBCns

So I can't take any credit for the solution, I got this from Bob at rcci (part option M6970V). I sent him my gauge and he put the new internals in. Very happy with his work and he is good at answering email questions. Regarding how I set it up, I decided not to show a "how to" as with an aftermarket circuit board like I have, it was very tricky to do the wiring (no space under the circuit board to run new wires which is required, can't use your circuit board connections). Had to use lots of electrical tape and be very careful so it would last over the years. So since this was not the cleanest installation project (at least not in my experience), I didn't think it would be best to show or go into detail. So I would say this is for those who are comfortable hacking at an electrical setup with some of their own creativity. Other models, years, or console setups may not require the tricks I had to apply.

So I created a video to show what it looks like to convert the stock ammeter to a voltmeter on a 69 mustang with deluxe interior. Hopefully this gives you an idea if it will be useful for your car. https://youtu.be/MdjrFCibYpg Note - My car needs a carb rebuild, so could not show it running.

So if you find your a-pillar trim covers are cracked and looking bad, here is a video on replacing them for 69 and 70 mustangs. I could not find a video when I started the project so decided to make one after. Hopefully this will help others. The video is a big long perhaps, but I try to give good feedback/details. I am not thrilled with the aftermarket parts for this (or at least the ones I got which I think are common) and fixing your originals if you can is the best way to go. But it gives you some info on how some of the aftermarket parts are for this. I am happy I replaced them, but again the part could be better. Hopefully the video will help you make the right decision on how you want to go and plan for the work needed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qqDBF3HNug

I bought them from CJ Pony parts and are made from Scott Drake. But I "think" Scott Drake gets them from Mustang Project. Part MP-6973-LED-GA-BLUE. I have 2 parts numbers on the bag: MP-6973-LED-GA-BLUE SD-6970-GA-BL Note - They mention that our year has polarized connections for the plastic plug in lights that twist into the circuit board. This is very true from my experience. I don't remember if I had to flip the bulb or the plastic holder on some of them, but one of the two had to be flipped where things did not work at first.

I started to look into converting my dim stock console lights on my 69 Mustang to Blue LED's, but only found a few rough pictures and nothing specific to 1969 or 1970 mustangs. So to give back to the cause after taking the plunge, I put something together that hopefully helps the next guy. More videos will come around other work I did on the dash. Hopefully that helps. Doug..

Thanks for the picture. I don't have that extra gauge pod, just the ones in the dash. I will check on Rocketman's option. Just wanted to know how it acts vs the stock one (does it sit in the middle when normal but moves more specifically due to charging condition changes). I assume he does not reface the gauge, so to look normal to anyone driving it, it would still need to sit in the middle. Will see what he offers there. If anyone has added this, I would love to hear about it. Thanks.

Thanks for the picture. I don't have that extra gauge pod, just the ones in the dash. I will check on Rocketman's option. Just wanted to know how it acts vs the stock one (does it sit in the middle when normal but moves more specifically due to charging condition changes). I assume he does not reface the gauge, so to look normal to anyone driving it, it would still need to sit in the middle. Will see what he offers there. If anyone has added this, I would love to hear about it. Thanks.

So I have my dash apart and going through all the components. I put on a new circuit board. All things worked before, but it was in bad shape. The ammeter has never seemed to move, just sits in the middle. I tested it to see if it would twitch when I turn on the lights or brake and nothing. So while things were out, I tested it with a electrical pen light. Here is what I found when sitting in the drivers seat with it semi installed. Key in the off position: * Touching the left post shows power (light on) * Touching the right post shows power on (light on). But when I touch the right side, I see the gauge move to the left 1/4 of 1/4. It does this consistently. So this makes me think the gauge has some life in it. But accuracy is a joke perhaps. So I am curious on thoughts for that. Next I am also curious on a stock conversion to a voltmeter. What will be different in the way the gauge acts? Why would this be better on this older cars. Will this really give me an idea of when I my alternator is starting to go or overcharging the battery? Just wondering what I am getting for the time and money. Would be nice to see a video of this change in behavior for a running gauge. Thanks in advance.

So I have my dash apart and going through all the components. I put on a new circuit board. All things worked before, but it was in bad shape. The ammeter has never seemed to move, just sits in the middle. I tested it to see if it would twitch when I turn on the lights or brake and nothing. So while things were out, I tested it with a electrical pen light. Here is what I found when sitting in the drivers seat with it semi installed. Key in the off position: * Touching the left post shows power (light on) * Touching the right post shows power on (light on). But when I touch the right side, I see the gauge move to the left 1/4 of 1/4. It does this consistently. So this makes me think the gauge has some life in it. But accuracy is a joke perhaps. So I am curious on thoughts for that. Next I am also curious on a stock conversion to a voltmeter. What will be different in the way the gauge acts? Why would this be better on this older cars. Will this really give me an idea of when I my alternator is starting to go or overcharging the battery? Just wondering what I am getting for the time and money. Would be nice to see a video of this change in behavior for a running gauge. Thanks in advance.