jmlay
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Posts posted by jmlay
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Thank you for the info and allowing me to hijack your thread.
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Here is a better picture. Look at the second picture in the link below:
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The drop offs in my car were replaced and the holes were not transferred to the new panel. If I may ask, what are the dimentions of the square hole and the larger round drain hole?
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Bolt to the lower dash and to the “plate” on the lower cowl.
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/70-vert-lower-dash-removal.977145/
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I am unable to tell you what vehicles my garage rollers came from but I went to the local auto scraper asked if they had anything with the bolt pattern. The sent me to a guy and he pulled out a couple and sold them to me for $20 each. I do not know if they will fit without hitting the caliper on the front. If I get a chance I will check them out tomorrow.
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Yes, however, those linked above are not original ford equipment.
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Perhaps if it is a thermal coating. However I would be concerned with whatever that coating flaking over time. Especially if the intake has seen use previously as it would be very difficult to extract all of the oil from the surface before coating. Or I'm just a worrysome person...
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Google for the part number several options to buy. In stock???
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Only war t know is to attempt to adjust it. Have all of the other componets been ruled out, tie rods, idler arm, sector shaft arm, etc?
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Before you cut anything out My recommendation would be to make a detailed diagram & note measurements as well as cross measurements. These measurements will help determine if the car is currently strait & square, or if adjustments need to be made. ASSUMING everything is where is should be they will help you get the new parts in the correct position.
69 & 70 are the same dimensions. Measurement "H", in the diagram below is correct, however, they are measuring from the incorrect hole, it should be the hole in front of the tunnel brace. I would also measure the distance between the top of the aprons in multiple identifiable locations, inside bend NOT the holes. Then cross measure from the firewall to the front of the apron.
lalojamesliz reacted to this -
Long cables will add resistance and voltage drop between the battery and the starter. What is the voltage at the solenoid static and while cranking?
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Shave the gear in the end of the Speedo cable to one with more or less teeth depending in the direction it’s off.
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You should have the builder of the trans validate. I know of no .78 option for an aod/4r70w/4r75e. As well the math does not support .78.
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I knew I had seen pictures of this car before. Are you sure you have the correct VIN? Ah, reading more closely I see the photo is not the same car.
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15252.0
Mike
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4r70w is a 0.70:1, assume that is a typographical error. It really depends on the tq available at the cruise rpm, the converter and the lockup schedule. My lightning cruises at 2200 rpm at 70 mile an hour, lots tq available. I believe I would have a discussion with to the cam designer about this. However, my guess the 3.70 or 3.50 will be fine. 3.00 may be fine as well but may require a different shift schedule specifically for it.
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Anytime!
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Take a look at these:
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Brackets from here, rotors, and some new or rebuilt calipers and your your good to go.
https://mustangsteve.com/product-category/rear-disc-brake-conversion-brackets/
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I would expect most any aftermarket 31 spline axle will take what you may throw at it with any street tire, they are not going to grip anyway.
There are many calculators available online to help with gear selection or get out the old slide rule.:
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator
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If I recall correctly the vaccume line runs to a valve that closes when the engine warms up, cutting off vaccume to the motor. No or less vaccume allows the motor to open the door allowing ambiant air to enter the air cleaner. Door is normally open and closes with vaccume.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Should be open normally. Closes in order to draw warm air when cold. These may be rebuilt, however, not sure it is worth the cost or effort.
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Where does this bar go (dash support)?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Ed,
You have it correct.