jmlay
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Posts posted by jmlay
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Cheaper options do exist. Scott Drake has a couple of pair, Scott Drake C7ZZ-5258-C & C7ZZ-5258-GT2. Another option is United Pacific, FM003. All "correct" are going to fit a 2 1/4" pipe.
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All 69 Mach1 received the stainless rolled tips. The "exact" repo are quite expensive. But there are several lower cost alternatives.:
https://www.npdlink.com/product/tail-pipe-extensions/214326/200414?year=1969Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
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Peter,
Are the bushing and spacers installed with the switch?
https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-brake-light-switch/185676/
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I would start with measuring between the frame rails near the radiator support and where the frame rails enter the rail extensions. Compare to ensure they are the same. If the are not the same one or both rails are not strait. Next I would find fixed points on the rails to make cross measurements to decide what if a thing has moved.
Assuming all of the above checks out I would note all of the dimentions as listed in the attached thread. Note: There will be variances between cars.
If your afraid the rails are going to move, they should not if there is no stress in the rails, one may brace them before cutting anything out.
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If the desktop size is the same & only what your viewing in the browser then likely some browser settings have changed. Chrome has 3 dots in the upper right, click the 3 dots & adjust the "zoom" setting. Firefox is similar except it has 3 bars in the upper right, click the bars & adjust the "zoom" setting. OR if your mouse has a scroll wheel, hold down the "ctrl" key & spin scroll wheel.
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Forscan does more than read the standard emissions obd codes. Like noted you need a specific obd2 adapter.
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You might want to check out forscan. It requires a PC and a specific obd2 adapter to utilize the advanced features.
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This is the clip I took of my car. Correct or replacement, I do not know.
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The links I provided describe a change in angles to address harmonics and vibration. Installed hight was the same.
Len69Coupe reacted to this -
I would say you have your options covered.
These links pretty much sum it up the differences in motor mounts.:
https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-motor-mount-support-bracket
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/66-convertible-motor-mounts.949169/#post-7809705 -
The gentleman that owns and runs the https://428cobrajet.org, Scott Hollenbeck, is the person whom has reproduced the foam pieces, plastic insert and many other parts.:
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9 hours ago, RPM said:On a Shelby I'd just change the bushings and shocks.
Agreed
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Assuming you have the cash on hand & found someone reputable. I would take headliner & windshield out & have it painted. Install a new headliner & glass, then reassemble. Everything else may be done as time & $ permit. maybe you will not have shinny bumpers to match the shiny new paint but in time you will.
TexasEd and Grabber70Mach reacted to this -
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Do a search in your area. I'm sure there is one around that can make one for you.
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The first picture above is using the the upper shackle hole. My recommendation woul be to use the two holes to the right, utilized for the bracket for transportation tiedown.
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Have you seen what a broken u-joint &/or a twisted off driveshaft cam do to the drive train and body of a car? You have spent on the performance upgrades for engine, trans and rear, not to mention all of the body work. My recommend would be to spend on the 1350 yoke and custom driveshaft to match the rest of the drivetrain.
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Use the rear tie down mount holes on the frame rail. Plate on one side welded to a square tube that extends rearward.
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Out of curiosity who's conversion is installed? The factory booster has studs on the booster.
Transmission tail seal
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
All of the below match the specifications of your original:
National 7300s
National 7296s
National 5203