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Posts posted by jmlay
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I ASSUME your using the below attached drawing. The Ford drawing uses different reference points, I can post this if needed. It is nice to have both in order to double shcesk. Note, it does take a bit of math to compare the 2 diagrams.
Your definitely in a pickle. But it is not unrecoverable. That being said my recommendation is to lock "X-6 1/2", I drilled a hole 6 1/2" up the support & bolted the body to the frame/table. Raise/lower the front of the body until your "C" & "11 3/16" (rear of frame rail) measurements are in range. At that point you may check your rocker dimensions. Next would be adding the pieces adjusting in order to arrive at the proper measurements. Keep in mind even the factory bodys were not perfect, lots of variation. Try to get as close as possible but do not expect perfection.
I will attach the Ford drawing that you may uses to double check your work. I will also see if I can find my notes that included adjusted dimensions for combined measurements for both drawings.
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Also the hood scoop turn signals, if equipped.
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Wire harness retainer attaches to this tab.
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I have no knowledge of the bracket pictured.
"40427" is the rubber shield that goes between the body & the bumper to shield any spilled gas from the license plate light &/or keep the license plate light from shining above the bumper.: -
Agreed, looks original to me.
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While I have no experience with a top loader or the tkx, I feel comfortable stating it goes behind the cross brace. The tkx is a longer transmission than the toploader, based upon the measurements I have seen online. The answer will be clear when you have the transmissions next to each other.
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Perhaps cut the bard fitting off and try a hard line adapter, compression, fitting.
Grabber70Mach reacted to this -
12 hours ago, RPM said:I'd fit and drill the holes before paint. I used the chin spoiler from NPD, which fit great and installed easily.
I second this. In addition I would fit the glass, trim& gasket before positioning & drilling, skip the sealer inside the gasket until the final install.
Have you been in a car with louvers? If not you might want to find someone that has them installed so that you may experience them and their quirks before drilling any holes. I had them on an 82 GT & my 69 Mach1, will not be going back on the Mach1 after paint. In both cases the rattles drove me crazy. Als a pain the rear to clean the glass. But they look great. :-) -
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Read the voltage at all of the connections of the red/blue, with the ignition switch in start position. I would start in the middle a d work back toward the ignition switch until you find voltage. The problem will be between where you have voltage and where you do not. Could also start at the ignition switch and work toward the starter solinoid.
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I have one. The spot weld holding the retaining has failed. Otherwise very nice piece. Let me know if your interested.
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Try this:
I missed the convertible portion... This should help:
https://www.motorclassiccorp.com/used-vehicle-1970-shelby-gt-350-mustang-convertible-c-53/ -
The connetor is pinned differently for a dash with a tach vs without tach. Verify what you have and the look at the diagrams and schematics. Some great resources on this site for electrical. Visit the how to portion of the forum for wiring diagrams and schematics.:
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A simple voltage meter solution is a usb phone charger with built in meter:
https://www.amazon.com/LIHAN-Charger-Display-Voltage-Current/dp/B01M9IKYVH
Frame jig with liskey measurement help
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
Your not there yet but note in the liskey diagram, first attachment, the cross measurement from the rear frame rail to the front frame rail support, 59 1/8", is NOT incorrect. The diagram indicates to use the incorrect hole in the frame rail support to measure.