RPM

Was able to get a little work done with the roll bar and seats. The seats are from an 06 Audi A4, and seem to fit. The door bar will be lowered a bit where it attached to the main hoop, and kicked out towards the door with a small bend. Ta ta for now! Bob

Thanks Brian. Bob

Atta boy lato! No more brain farts, ok? It's going to be a shame to cover up all that nice work with paint, insulation, carpet... Bob

Raven, I believe the rebuild cost was about $150, give or take $20. http://www.boosterdeweyexchange.com The 69's have a different (smaller) spindle than the 70's. I have the same 70 spindles you have because the 70 takes a larger wheel bearing while using the same hub. If you end up using the 69 spindle you should have no problem selling the 70's. Bob

70 huh? Thanks. Well maybe the shaker hood I bought just might be a 70. Any issues I can expect? Where on the hood should I look for the part number? Bob

Hey Mike, if you don't sell the shifter to Kris let me know. I need a good one. Thanks. Bob

Was going thru my trim box to locate the hood molding to check its condition. Found two that look similar, one being about 1/2 inch thick and the other 3/4 inch thick. WTFresno? Are they both hood moldings of what? One has regular nuts, the other has acorn style nuts. I've had a few hoods around here. Any idears? Bob

Yes, I do. Had Booster Dewey rebuild it since parts are like hens teeth. And ol Dewey won't still parts for the diy'er. Bob

MTF, that makes sense coming from a shop. Validates why one guy loves it, and another hates it. Thanks to all. Bob

Thanks, it confirms all the info I've heard, cept one. Bob

A poster on another forum claims that the Corvex brand hood trim from Mustangs Unlimited is a perfect fit. My experience in searching for a nice hood trim on several forums and talking with NPD is that an acceptable repop hood trim does not exist. Does a anyone have any knowledge of the Corvex piece? I sure hope the trim is as nice as he claims. Bob

Uh...yep, I'd say that was a pretty good launch. You're gonna have to change the 60' time in your signature. Bob

Ya, it wasn't so bad... for you! I was pretty darn sore today. Made a little progress today. My old back is paying the price. Bob

Yes, a lot to work with. Welcome to the site! Where do you call home? Bob

So who's freaking idea was it to install a roll bar? Huh? I suppose if I just wanted to do it "close enough" it wouldn't be so tedious. Got the main hoop and two rear bars fitted and tacked. I'm getting too old for this. Just a bit tired. First up, get the car level, then get the the main hoop centered and level, the damn rear bars took forever to fit and tack, Looks simple enough, but crawling in and out of the car all day kicked my arse. Bob

Just lucky I guess :) The only thing I could think of getting was a 6 gauge instrument bezel. BAMB! Done. Then I thought about the NSRA Western Nationals being in town next month, and the show price will probably be lower with my luck. Bob

Thanks Phlegm, don't know if impressive or psychotic better describes it. If I'd have just put it together with the all new aftermarket suspension I already bought, I could have been driving it for quite awhile. Got a major case of the while I'm at its. Here's my build thread, enjoy. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8394 I was not able to load pics for some time, so there's quit a few posts without pics. Bob

I just used it and rec'd the 25% discount. Bob

Mine measures 24-3/8" top, and 21-1/2" bottom. Bob

Lato, I'm going with a 6 point roll bar, (as of today at 11:55 am) with swing out straight from bars which will attach to the torque box area. The rear bars will also be straight and mount above the frame rails where the Ride Tech triangulated rear susp cradle rear bolts mount, just south of the axle. Ya like those new style coil overs eh? That is where the front mounting bolts for the rear suspension cradle mount. Figured since I'm not putting in the rear seat, I could tie in the rear bars of the roll bar to that mounting point with a tube between the bars. The center section of that bar will be straight and horizontal just above the body metal and bend up at each end to connect to the rear bars. Should be fun welding :) Picked up the rest of the tubing today. Time to get biddy! I really enjoy fabbing stuff like this more than anything. Thanks for the tip on the interior panels. Bob

Change again in roll bar plan, sheesh. After talking it over with my engineer nephew who has installed a roll bar or two, I decided to use 1-3/4" x .134 mild steel. I Bought the Competition Engineering main hoop thru Summit, $48 plus $89 shipping. I'll get the remaining tubing locally at a better price than what's included in the kit. When I was looking into the roll bar a guy at Summit said they were in stock, but they need to coordinate shipping with a trucking company. The S&W roll bar is made to order, East coast and 2 weeks out. Ordered online yesterday around noon. Got a phone message today at 9:30 a.m. from Fed Ex, part is in at their nearby location about a mile away. I check my order confirmation from Summit, freight is $12 not $80. Think I need to buy a lotto ticket. Anywho, now the "fun" begins, fitting and welding. Bob

Sheesh, another smart guy. This site is going down hill fast ;) Juuuust kiddin'. If it weren't for my memory and math skills I'd have been an engineer. Welcome aboard mate! Good luck on your ride. Where do you call home, and which college do you attend? Bob

That table would look real nice in my shop :) Bob

Nice work mate. You guys from Oz amaze me. I don't believe I've seen any crappy work from all y'all down there. With the added costs for shipping and the regulations you have to jump thru, my hat is of to you. Smart choice with the Opentracker stuff. Good luck and keep up the good work. Bob

Um, wow! The pics of your work is giving me an inferiority complex. 55-1/16" o.d.? Really, a 16th inch off? I think you bent it, measured it, then came up with the bs 55" number to make it look like you know what you're doing ;) You gonna tig or mig it? Can't remember if you've mentioned it. It's a shame all your welds will be covered up. Why not give it the race car look and just paint it? Very nice work Mike. Bob