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aslanefe

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Posts posted by aslanefe


  1. I made a set from aluminum long time ago for a set of wheels I had. And made a set from steel for the Magnum 500s I currently have on the car.

    Can't remember the alloy I used (6061 possibly) but aluminum was fine. Used whatever material I had laying around.

    If you find the right size of steel tubing, you do not need to remove a lot of material (especially from the inside) and should be able to machine it on a mini lathe with small passes.

    Or you can get 2 different sizes of tubing and slip and weld them before machining. That is what I had done with the Aluminum one, the lip was welded/machined.


  2. Myself and my friend made them on the lathe ourselves, don’t know if they are available for sale. A machine shop (that has a lathe) can take measurements of the hubs and wheel of your car and can make them for you. The dimensions of your wheel may be different due to manufacturer of the wheel, it is best to get the dimension from your own Magnum 500.


  3. 7 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    I've never seen or heard of them being used on our cars but it seems like a natural.

    Do you care to share the dementia, aww the dimensions, if you still have them? They must be different between drums in the rear, and discs up front. The drums appear to be hub-centric so why not the wheels.

     

    image.png.f2a3b1a01dc44c945c7fa2abff6d5f70.png

    It has been a while so I don’t remember the dimensions Terry. But disc and drum were the same as far as I can remember. Made the main out side diameter to fit tight inside the Magnum 500, inside diameter was slip fit to hub of the disc and rear axle. Put a lip with a bigger outside diameter so it stays in place and can’t move out (but not too thick so it won’t push the wheel out). If you have access to factory steel wheels, you can use the measurement of it’s inner diameter as the inner diameter of the ring as the factory steel wheels are hub centric.

    My vibration was at higher speed (around 100 mph). 

    A friend with a 69 428 Cobra Jet also had vibration with his Magnum 500s, rings got rid of it.


  4. 1 hour ago, Midlife said:

    The one just below the large power pin.  It's color is blue/red.  That wire comes from the neutral safety switch/backup harness, which in turn comes from the ignition switch.

    Thanks Midlife.

    I am chasing a no start issue. Sometimes when I turn the key, it won’t crank; especially if it sat for a day or two. Sometimes turning the key on-off a few times, it will crank. If I apply + to S terminal, it will crank. And for the next few starts, it will start with key. But if it is not started for sometime, like for a day, may need to apply + to S terminal again. It may be the ignition switch or neutral/back up switch acting up.


  5. There is no exact reproduction of 70 coupe quarter panel; there is a 70 vert reproduction quarter. That panel you bought must be for 70 vert which has the 69 body line above the side marker,  but it is also missing the 70 coupe specific body line below the side marker.

    I measured “height” dimensions of a few cars with no frame damages while I was building my body jig and they were very close to “height” dimensions given at Liskey diagram.


  6. 9 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    Fantastic detail Doug, thanks. I'm still undecided if I will go EFI or Carb. If I go EFI, I like the Holley 12-305 pump assembly but the fuel connection appears to stick out a little more than the stock version, maybe causing a problem. 

    Aslanefe, didn't you use the 12-305, but do you have a transverse muffler??

    I used 12-305 but no traverse muffler, I put 2 mufflers where resonators would be.


  7. On 6/8/2023 at 12:09 AM, Midlife said:

    There are at least 3 variants of the 69/70 fuel lines, which makes my life a mess.  One variant is specific with dual exhaust.  I really can't say what the reproductions intend to duplicate, as I don't have enough experience with them.  Basically, the dual exhaust version has the fuel line grommet in the center of the tank area behind the tank; the other two are on the passenger side drop-off.

    Much of what the above posts may be showing are these variants...just my $.03 on the matter.

    I have a few single exhaust cars and fuel sender wire comes out from middle, not trunk drop-off; wonder if dual exhaust comes out of trunk drop-off.


  8. 1 hour ago, JayEstes said:

    You know, my coupe was a single exhaust, but I converted it to dual exhaust (only because I wanted to).  My fuel gauge wire penetrates the center, forward of the fuel tank, after it goes thru my gauge calibrator.  Does the fact that I now have a dual exhaust mean that maybe I shouldn't go thru the hole in the back of the drop-off?  Will the exhaust now on that get the wire too hot and melt the insulation? I'm gonna look at this this weekend - and see what is up - been too busy to get out there until now....

    Jay, Midlife said dual exhaust wire goes out from center; so you should be good. On a side note, my single exhaust cars also have the wire coming out from center. Wonder if Midlife meant to say dual exhaust comes out from passenger drop-off?


  9. 4 hours ago, JayEstes said:

    I have to say I am not sure but I do believe it is.  It could be that I have that routed wrong, and it should go where you say - I'll have to check and let you know.  There aren't a lot of instructions on this stuff - I could have gotten it wrong.

    I was worried that the wire could get chafed and start a fire as it does not have a grommet for the hole you used on trunk floor.


  10. 6 hours ago, smh00n said:

    4. The Holley Sniper. Man, they don't tell you the whole story on the box. "self learning" is actually just the fuel side. While you can control timing of the MSD through the Sniper software, you have to develop a timing map to suit your engine. Otherwise, it drives like a turd with no low down power and a power band a 500cc GP bike would be jealous of. Ask me how I know this. So, I now have to become a tuner, which defeats the purpose of buying this in the first place - I wanted a system that I could bolt on, click a few options and drive happily off into the Sunset. And back again. My first effort sucked, no power off idle and a giant lunge at about 2,000. My second attempt was better, much cleaner power delivery but missing a whole lot when under 2,000 in 4th gear. This thing has a 3.50 gear and little 15" wheels, so it's not unhappy doing that previously. With the old motor and no timing control I could not fault the system and thought it was the best thing. I guess with all things hot rodding you gotta have pain for gain.

    I have been telling this to people when they ask about Holley Sniper or any other "self learning" efi system.

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