Caseyrhe

Got her running today, finished breaking in the cam and then idled her down. Used the bell housing for a Std and only used about 7 bolts to hold the headers on. Just need to take all that loose and wait. Sure would be nice to get the Tranny back by Friday drive it next weekend. IMG_5883.MOV

After the last few weekends, finish the one I'm working on now without any more steps back

The torque conv was blue new. Going to check the flywheel in a few days, I’m sure I just better replace it now instead of next week, lol. Transmission shop said he’ll fix it for me at no charge. Not sure I’m to trusting with his work right now.

Just in case your wondering,,a C6 will not come out without removing one header. I’m getting damn good with these headers, third time on pass side now in 4-5 weeks. Here’s the C6, think it got a little hot?

This car is going to kill me. Never have I had so many issues! Fired it back up today after replacing carb and spacer gaskets. Disconnected all the vac lines. Leaning the choke all the way. Fired right up, but would still not idle above 2k with idle screw all the way down, so I held the idle up by hand for another 10 min, with temp running at 190. Well, I’m going to say it would idle due to being under a load, rebuilt C6 is the prob. Trans started over heating, shot fluid out the vent hole, and caught on fire. Shut the car off, grabbed the closely placed fire ext and put it out. Guess a def pump or ???? Fluid looks like mtr oil, shop smells like burnt pop corn. Just kill me now!!

I needed a carb for the 390, so I bought a Holley 770, auto choke, brand spanking new. Installed with 1” factory spacer. Upon initial startup, can not adjust idle to hold rpms above 2k to break in cam, but can manually hold throttle open to keep rpms above 2k. engine sounds great, not missing or backfiring. total timing around 34 degrees. had to shut it down after 5-10 min at initial startup due to being solo and couldn't see temp gauge. Elect choke not hooked up to 12 volts, set at factory setting. Any suggestions? 390, .40 over Holley 770 carb, auto choke, vac secondarys Edelbrock Performer intake Mellings SYB-22 cam, stock CJ specs PI heads

I vision finding my next project car, with a realistic seller

Good looking colored car

If I could just get a break. I needed a carb for the 390, so I bought a Holley 770, auto choke, brand spanking new. Installed with 1” factory spacer. Upon initial startup, can not adjust idle to hold rpms above 2k to break in cam, but can manually hold throttle open to keep rpms above 2k. Any ideals??

Here’s another step back. While I had the heads off, figured I would replace the proportioning valve. Guess someone was playing a joke and affixed bracket on yo valve opposite. Good thing I was able to rebuild old one with guys from new one

Have made a lot of progress, exterior pretty much done but rocker panels and grill. Interior is complete less package tray that I need to build. Motor is in and at first attempt to fire up, when filling with Wtr, found two leaks. Leaks where from both heads, where they meet the block. 3 steps forward 2 steps back right! Machine shop jacked the heads up and had to resurface them. Before reinstalling the headers at second attempt, all was good with no leaks. I have to say, I’m getting good at bolting up the headers and have quite the array of altered 7/16 wrenches for the job. Less than 3 hours for both this time

Good looking starter project. Best of luck. Does it have tilt wheel

Anybody interested in the emissions junk for a restore. Have the fill tube and rubber adapted/clamps for tank.

Bob, I used the measurements I found off this site, made a few pencil marks, and ran a string line. I then came back with painters tape to match the string line. The lip of the tape is just enough to catch the stripe once backing is removed. It only takes just a little soap in the bottle to make the stripes workable.

Can I pick one up at an auto parts store or have to order one?

I took the top line off, then got several other lines lose. Decided to take top of valve off, pushed piston down with little force. Decide to tighten everything back up and try it ....bingo, brakes are working and bled. 2 busted knuckles and a choice words. Guess I’ll keep the old calipers for working spares, lol

Can’t get front disc brakes bled, rear brakes bled and shoes engage. Pedal would go to the floor while bleeding. Replaced front rubber hoses due to age. Replaced front calipers thinking they were rusted/frozen up. New mst cyl and booster. Tried heat on proportioning valve thinking maybe it’s frozen up, it is a 70 which is different than the 69 valve. Any help or direction greatly appreciated

This finger?

I’ve seen red Mach’s with both gold/w and black/g Guess would be what’s suits your liking. I got mine from CJ’s. Right rear had a flaw in reflective composite and they sent me a free replacement for that piece

Hose for the 71 came in today, we have a winner. Threads on block and hose are correct left hose- 69 center hose- new 71 repop right hose- factory 70 part number on bag from oreilys

it is rubber, that is the block that attaches to the rubber hose and 2 metal lines connect to

Having a hard time finding the correct Rear brake hose for my 70 Grande. Old and new hard lines I bought have bigger threaded ends and won’t work on the 2 new hoses I bought. Part number on the brass block off the old hose is DOZA2A4488. 23129Y have read that a 71 mustang hose might be the ticket anyone ran across this issue before, solution??

Heater control valve

White cop does that to a white dude, maybe makes the local news Black cop does that to black dude, maybe makes the news Black cop does that to a white dude, maybe makes the news. They should have brought the troops in earlier and nipped this in the butt before all the looting started. Punk ass kids