You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth.
PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!
You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth.
PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!
NPT ports are commonly adapted to AN lines, but the NPT size designation is confusing, identifying the pipe I.D. rather than the O.D. Black pipe has a much thicker wall than hard line, so the pipe/port O.D. is much larger than the NPT size would seemto indicate.
For example, a 3/8†NPT port will have an outside diameter of 5/8â€, allowing for a wall thickness of 1/8†(0.125â€). As a result, NPT port sizes allow use of a one step larger AN line than their indicated size would seem to support. As long as the wall of the adapter fitting is not overly thick, the following NPT Port to AN adapters will provide a common I.D. through-hole:
Maximum AN line for NPT port size: 1/4†NPT is compatible with up to-6 AN (3/8†hard line) 3/8†NPT is compatible with up to–8 AN (1/2†hard line) 1/2†NPT is compatible with up to–10 AN (5/8†hard line) 3/4†NPT is compatible with up to-16 AN (1†hard line)
Adapter fittings are available for connecting larger than recommended AN lines to the above NPT ports.
Beware, the inside diameter of the adapter fitting will necessarily be smaller on the NPT side, creating a flow restriction that many racers and hotrod enthusiasts overlook. This is a poor practice and should be avoided, but when no alternative is available, consider sourcing a steel NPT to AN adapter from a good hydraulic supplier. Steel adapters will have a thinner wall than aluminum, due to the increase in material strength, leaving a larger I.D. to support higher flow on the too small, NPT side of the adapter
Just got off the phone with MSD, I explained my set up and he advised me to get the Blaster SS #8207. He explained that the SS has a faster recharge rate then others, 300 milliamps. Which seems to be the most concern.
Also, he said not to run the wires from the coil and MSD 6a to dist in parallel.
As for EMI's, do not run anything together in parallel if one of the wires has a signal (such as the coil wire wrapped with a signal wire).
I know the Blaster SS #8207 is not the Canister type I was first looking for, but the guy convinced me to get it.
So, Mach1 Driver, the Tech was actually repeating what you stated (Good info).
Thought I'd pass that on.
Edelbrock Performer RPM 1500-6500 7181 71811 4.80 1.074(a) 1.90h x 1.08w c)
Edelbrock Rpm Air Gap 1500-6500 7581 75814 5.75 0.124(a)
Weiand (Holly) Stealth 1500-6800 8023 4.715(b) 1.159(b) 1.82h x 1.05w
(a) The 69 Mach1 hood scoop has bolts that stick down 1/2". Clearances are without hood scoop.
(b) The carb pad is angled with an average height of (4.37 front+5.06 back)/2=4.715". I don't know what net effect is for clearances front and back but "1969 Mach1" says the 8023 fits well with the stock air cleaner.
c) The carb pad has been moved forward and the stock or 14" aftermarket air cleaner will hit an aftermarket distributor with a large distributor cap per "1969 Mach1". He says there are no clearance issues with the Weiand 8023. Note that the bottom of the stock air cleaner is already embossed to clear the distributor cap and wires.
Since I have a stock distributor I may go with Edelbrock's 7181 since I'm going to use their heads, and the Edelbrock 7181 has slightly larger ports.
1. The 4R is a bit stronger than the AOD altho the AOD can take a beating the 4R is just better in terms of strength.
2. The Ears I was discussing are the casting ears at the REAR on top of the transmission and they need to be cut off so they don't hit the floor crossmember support and bust the case like I did mine haha...
3. From what I gather the 4R and c6 cases are about the same width in the front part so headers that fit a c6 should fit a 4R altho I ordered my headers from Ford Powertrain Applications (FPA)
4. The 4R IS Longer than the c4 & C6 but not sure on the AOD length differences... Regardless you will likely have to have your drive shaft made about 1/2 to 3/4" shorter and rebalanced.
5. Transmissions from 1997 and Up are The Best of the bunch and one of the main things that makes them so is the Mechanical Diode Upgrade which has better holding power... Altho some 1997 models came equipped with this upgrade already... My 1997 has it.
I would venture to say if you got a low mileage 4R from Any 1997 and up V8 Application it would live just fine behind a stock to lightly modified 351 with nothing more than a J-Body mod and a trans cooler.
Most of the vehicles that had 4R's had the internal radiator trans cooler PLUS and extra cooler.... If you are hitting the junk yard for a transmission, may as well pull the Ford Plate cooler off the same vehicle... I suggest finding a 97 and up truck with a 302 or 351w as a donor vehicle.... Altho
Now the earlier 4R's were not bad units compared to the 97 and up units, and depending on your power level the 97 and back units would probably be okay with just a J-Body mod and a good rebuild with good parts, and a mechanical diode upgrade is like 100 bucks.
6. Keep in mind if the bell housing has 3 bolt holes where the starter goes it WILKL NOT WORK on a regular V8 Push Rod motor... You need a 4R with 2 Bolt holes where the starter goes.
7. Now the 4R can have a few different tail shaft housings, and they are.... Short with small bushing and long with small bushing & Short and long with large bushing.... The small bushing tail shaft housing will allow you to use your c4 Yolk with the transmission, but if you get one with a large bushing then you will need an Actual 4R Yolk.... The length of the tail shaft really only affects your driveshaft length, and you can have a custom drive shaft built for under 400 bucks.
8. The Bauman computer is the way to go, its about 4" long and 5" tall and 1" thick... I cut a hole in the back of my glove box liner and slipped mine in there so I could have the passenger open it and make adjustments... Hell I have opened it and adjusted it at a stop light a few times.
Their controller allows you to either have an OD button OR you can just have it lock the converter in at a certain MPH like I do.
I didn't want an OD cancellation switch because if I'm racing I probably wont push the car past 4th gear anyhow so who cares if I can push a button to lock out the converter OD... and besides you can just set the computer to not lock the converter till say 120 mph and unless you hit 120 it will never go into OD... I have done this a few times on the weekends just because I knew I was going to do stupid stuff. So no worries about having an OD cancellation switch... I generally have mine set up at 75MPH lock up so when I hit the interstate and push it to 75 it locks the converter and RPM's drop to 2100 and im rolling a constant 75-90 or however fast I wanna go.
And don't worry about down shifts, if your doing 80 mph and the converter is locked and you put the hammer down, the computer unlocks the converter and the transmission will drop to 3rd and away you go till it reaches the set WOT RPM shift selected for 4th gear.
9. Joe Persad Sales the crossmember as well as a linkage to use a stock shifter... I use a B&M Hammer Shifter myself, and it allows you to manually shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, then the computer takes the 3rd to 4th shift and if your at WOT I have mine set to shift at 5500.... Its honestly more consistent to let the computer do the shifting for you, but banging the gears with the ratchet shifter is fun.
10. Flexplates.... Okay if your running a 351 like I am you will need a 28oz flexplate with a 164 tooth ring gear on it, UNLESS your motor is balanced to 50oz or is neutrally balanced, and if so you can get flexplates like this also... But if you got a 28oz balancer on the crankshaft you will need a 28oz flexplate...Autozone carries a Pioneer unit that will work but is not SFI Approved.
11. Torque converters.... I have 2 good Stock units you can have if you want for the cost of shipping LOL... The stock converter will flash to about 2800 RPM's and works great, but its not built strong enough to couple well on the big end if your motor is making some power... My motor made 550hp at the flywheel and really starts making a ton of power around 3000 RPM's and plays out around 6200.
If you order an aftermarket converter you will likely have to dill the 4 bolt holes in the flex plate out to 15/32" in order to get the bolts in since the aftermarket converters generally come with bigger heavier duty bolts.
I would say for a mildly modified 351 and a Stock converter would do just fine... My new 10" PTC converter I ordered was supposed to be a 2800 but when I flat foot it the thing flashes to 3500 and is totally violent, not to mention it doesn't actually start moving the car very well till it hits 1500 RPM's which I don't like... "Should have ordered a Continental Converter and been done" but I tried PTC and now I have to pull the converter back out and send it to them and wait a week for them to tighten it up more.
12. Driveshaft length... If you had a C4 your stock shaft MAY fit as long as the yolk will slide into the transmission and you have 1/2-3/8" to slide the shaft back and into the rear end yolk, but if if you have to squeeze and fight the rear u-joint into the rear end yolk, then you will need to shorten your shaft, because as the suspension travels up and down the front yolk slides in and out of the rear tailshaft of the transmission and it needs room to move, and if it cant then bad shit happens.
I have a stock shaft that has been shortened to the correct length you can have for the cost of shipping but it will need to be balanced which costs 70 bucks. It has a c4 Yolk on it
13. IMPORTANT SHOULD HAVE BEEN WITH THE TRANSMISSION SELECTION....Remember when you pull the transmission you MUST get the little metal plate that goes between the engine block and the transmission...this little guy is the spacer that keeps you from pulling the transmission in to close to the converter and putting it in a bind and burning up the front pump...ALSO with out this plate the starter will almost certainly hang up in the flexplate ring gear when you start the car and it may not disengage... So it serves 2 purposes so DONT FORGET TO GET IT.
Im sure there is more but if you have questions call me, I sent ya my number
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