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Mach1 Driver

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Posts posted by Mach1 Driver

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks, I know I could use a dropped base. My question is if the Stock Air Cleaner will fit over a Sniper without clearance issues. I like the old stock blue bucket and want to continue with that look. Height isn't an issue if I use the correct intake manifold. I'm concerned with the width of the Sniper and the linkage banging into the bottom of the stock air cleaner. It doesn't appear that anyone has used the stock air cleaner, but I suspect its because they use a higher intake and have to switch to a dropped base or hit the hood.

    As far as the throttle modification goes, I was referring to Holley's throttle lever extension. In this Holley video he mentions people using progressive linkage, and I found that EFI System Pro sells the progressive linkage. I'm concerned that if I use the throttle extension that it will hit the bottom of the stock air cleaner, because it is sticking up higher. In this video Holley doesn't like the use of progressive linkage, but doesn't say why.

    https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/ignition_and_fuel_systems/sniper_efi_service_components/parts/20-16

  3. Posted · Report reply

    A few months ago RPM talked about cutting the flange on his headers to allow the tubes to flex individually. I realize I'm showing the passenger side, and you wouldn't cut the gasket too, just the flange, but you get the idea. That last tube isn't going to bend on these shorties with the collector right there so you may need to free up the others to get some wiggle room when they get hot. Hopefully Bob will show the picture of his fix and discuss the results (it was probably done to a different brand of headers though). I suspect that cutting the flange would be your last resort and an expensive experiment, but if nothing else works....its the old problem of the unintended consequences of aftermarket designs and parts.

    image.thumb.png.b6b4402ae9b0664279bee1ab6b73ad8d.png

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I want the stock look with the Sniper hiding below, and I know a 4150 Sniper is wider than a 4 barrel carburetor, but nowhere does it give a spec. It’s one of those things that I don’t want to be surprised about after I buy the dang thing. I have a 69 with a 351W and I’m wondering about the air cleaner banging into the linkage or top corners of the Sniper.

    The air cleaner is 5-1/8 as is the air horn on a Sniper so at least that will fit. And it will fit height wise under the hood with a stock 4 barrel manifold or an Edelbrock 2181.

    Did you have an overly sensitive throttle? Holley sells a throttle extension lever to make the pedal less sensitive, but that could cause more problems.

    I’m hoping someone has tried this and will please relate your experience.

    Thanks

  5. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Mike65 said:

    Terry I am going to use a dual exhaust system with dual mufflers in front of the rear axle that I bought from Virginia Mustang that has turbo mufflers & has the mounting brackets welded in the proper place for stock hangers. Here is the link to the system I have. It says on the muffler Xcelerator turbo muffler & the body of the muffler is 14" long.

    67-69 2 1/2" TURBO DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM WORKS WITH ORIGINAL STYLE 67-69 HANGER KIT TRIM TAIL PIPES OR USE OUR TURNDOWNS (virginiaclassicmustang.com)

    Thanks, please let us know how that sounds

  7. Posted · Report reply

    If you have a 1969, then there is a wire diagram in the How Tos section below, also a Schematic, posts #1 and #11 in the list.

    Black with red wire 385 goes from the flasher to the turn switch, supplying power to any four of the corner bulbs. That's where it is getting the power to the short. But no black or brown wire is shown on the wire diagram going to the turn signal switch, shown on pages 2-E24 and 25 of the diagram, or page 3 of the schematic. Schematics don't show wire numbers- they are meant to simplify the circuit so you can understand it, while wire diagrams actually show the wire routing, plugs, colors and wire numbers and how the car is actually wired.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks guys, it was "decision tree" time so I could get a clear direction of how I wanted to build the car. One thing influences another, and so on.

    EFI won out slightly over a carburetor

    A transverse muffler won out over individual dual mufflers, because it is quieter

    A stock fuel tank and Holley 12-305 return-less pump is OUT because the EFI can't handle the heat from a transverse muffler affecting fuel temperature

    A Holley Sniper EFI Conversion Fuel Tank is IN because it allows the use of EFI and a transverse muffler.

    Now if I don't change my mind....

     

  13. Posted · Report reply

    In a recent post “Trunk wiring routing” some very interesting facts about dual mufflers were discussed, most of which were new to me because my 69 Mach1 has one big honking original single muffler. Yes it still has the Ford logo, and all the associated parts. I will be changing to dual exhaust so I'm always interested in knowing the changes between the two.

    In the trunk wiring thread “stangs-R-me” brought up the fact that the 70s had some dual mufflers in front of the axle, while the 69s only had them transversely mounted. Since the transverse muffler is mounted on its side between the pumpkin and the fuel tank, it has special wiring to keep it clear of hot exhaust parts.

    Problem ONE is that I want a quiet car in which my wife will want to go for a drive and in which we can have a discussion without yelling, enjoy the radio, etc.

    Problem TWO is that I probably will switch to EFI and my current best fuel pump option is a Holley 12-305. This is an in tank pump and regulator that has no need for a return line and also has a hydromat and fuel sensor that all fits neatly into a stock tank. It’s down side is that it has four wires going into it instead of one, and the fuel inlet seems to stick up slightly more than the stock one, which could make it problematic with a transverse muffler right next to it. So why not avoid the potential issues and change to 70 style dual mufflers in front of the axle?

    I have both 69 and 70 Part and Body Illustration Manuals and they show the part numbers, but I could find no on-line reference to the DOZZ-5230-E&F, D&B, J&C, OR G&H mufflers so it isn't possible to find pipe and muffler size. I think the challenge in using a 70 system is finding one that is close to authentic. Everyone that makes a muffler has a system and they are all probably too loud.

    So my first question is for RPM- Bob you used a Walker Quiet Flow 21856 which is 19 x 4-1/4 x 9-3/4 with 2-1/2 pipes (edit, make that 23 instead of 19). I know you have side exit exhausts, but do you know whose pipes would position that muffler in the stock brackets, then exit up over the axle and out the back?

    Anyone else have suggestions? We are talking quite here guys, not Magnaflows.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, stangs-R-me said:

    We are getting a bit off track as far as the thread "subject" goes but ...

    The only way factory dual exhaust came on '67-69 Mustangs & Shelbys was with the dual resonators and the transverse muffler.   It was the same system dimensionally for all 3 years but there are two different systems:

    2" for 289, 302, 351W & 390

    2-1/4" for 428, Boss 302, & Boss 429

    Interestingly, the small block H-Pipes are all 2-1/4" and will bolt right up to the 2-1/4" system which is what I have behind my 351W.   Why the 390 Big Block got the small 2" system is a mystery.        

    In 1970, all Mustangs with dual exhaust went to the more common and simpler dual muffler set up in front of the axle and all were 2-1/4".   If you have a '67-69 and want the more normal dual muffler set up, then you just order 1970 exhaust and obviously there is no issue with the center exit fuel sender wiring.

    Doug       

    You are correct, we are getting off track, and maybe I should start another thread. Thanks for the info, I wasn't aware that the 70 had dual mufflers in front of the axle as well as transverse. I have both 69 and 70 Part and Body Illustration Manuals and they do show this with part numbers, but I could find no on line reference to the DOZZ-5230-E&F, D&B, J&C, OR G&H mufflers so it isn't possible to find pipe and muffler size. I think the challenge in using a 70 system is finding one that is close to authentic. Everyone that makes a muffler has a system and they are all too loud. At least the transverse system is reproduced and has a period correct tone that isn't so loud that it will drive you nuts.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Fantastic detail Doug, thanks. I'm still undecided if I will go EFI or Carb. If I go EFI, I like the Holley 12-305 pump assembly but the fuel connection appears to stick out a little more than the stock version, maybe causing a problem. 

    Aslanefe, didn't you use the 12-305, but do you have a transverse muffler??

  16. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, JayEstes said:

     Does the fact that I now have a dual exhaust mean that maybe I shouldn't go thru the hole in the back of the drop-off?  Will the exhaust now on that get the wire too hot and melt the insulation?

    Jay, do you have the stock 2-1/4 dual exhaust with the resonators up front and the transverse muffler positioned on edge between the pumpkin and the fuel tank? I've often wondered how close that gets to the sender wire, but it makes sense that there would be less exposure to the muffler coming out the center than running across the tank from the side.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/8/2023 at 12:09 AM, Midlife said:

    There are at least 3 variants of the 69/70 fuel lines, which makes my life a mess.  One variant is specific with dual exhaust.  I really can't say what the reproductions intend to duplicate, as I don't have enough experience with them.  Basically, the dual exhaust version has the fuel line grommet in the center of the tank area behind the tank; the other two are on the passenger side drop-off.

    Much of what the above posts may be showing are these variants...just my $.03 on the matter.

    Mid, thanks for the heads up on the fuel line for dual exhaust. My car has it in the center and it is a single exhaust Mach1. I will be changing to dual exhaust so I'm always interested in knowing the changes between the two. I was surprised to find out that the passenger side rear leaf spring shackles are different for a dual exhaust car (among other hanger brackets and things). Apparently the shackles are only available through Eaton Springs, as he had them specially tooled.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/6/2023 at 4:34 PM, Mike65 said:

    Terry thanks for the link but it says I do not have permission to view it

    Sorry about that, my son still hasn't gotten around to looking at that. For some reason he puts his work before mine- the nerve of him!

    Here is a shot of the wire routing using the snipping tool. I show the Cougar version first because it is the only page that has the fuel sender wire that Mid mentions in the post above:

    Cougar 2-E14 interior lights, clock, cigar lighter, but shows fuel sender wire

    image.thumb.png.3e0a90a38d727be82ee65f4317066bbc.png

    Mustang 2-E22 exterior lights, clock, cigar lighter. No fuel sender wire shown

    image.thumb.png.c8efacd4d73b712d195e90a2d36e3432.png

    JayEstes reacted to this

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I'm still undecided and flop back and forth between using a Carb or EFI. If I switch to a new carb it will be the M2008, and your postings will make a great difference, Thank You.

    Since you've been running it for three years now, do you regularly use gas with ethanol, and has it affected anything yet?

    My old 2V has always stunk up the garage for 4-5 days after driving it- until the gas has dried up in the bowl. At first I thought the smell was from the lawn mower, but after we moved to a house with an attached garage it was clear it was coming from the car. My wife calls it "Old Car Smell", and won't drive in it. It must have a leak but I've never been able to find it even with long duration bench testing. My primary reasons for changing to EFI would be to get rid of the smell, easier cold starting, and self tuning. I'm a little surprised at your low gas mileage- anything special going on with the cam or compression ratio?

    What would you recommend: Carb or EFI?

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Alignment Specs from Open Tracker Racing for power steering:

    Caster:   +2.5 to +4.5° for power steering

    Camber: 0.0 to -0.5 Street, Street Performance -0.5 to -1.5°

    Toe:        1/8”

     

    Camber distributes load across tire face

    Caster causes wheel to align with direction of travel. More makes it harder to turn, but OK for power steering. You would want less for manual steering.

    Use same numbers on both sides of car for camber and caster

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Mike, I don't know if this will help, but its a link to my Google Drive. Among other things it has a very detailed wire diagram that is Ford approved and 30+ pages. You want page 2-E22.

    The only reasonable way for people to view high resolution files is if they are saved as a pdf. However, the pdf in this ancient software can only output in portrait mode. Since most of the drawings are in landscape mode, I had to rotate them 90° prior to saving as a pdf. Just print the page(s) wanted and you will have a full landscape size pdf. Sorry for the inconvenience. Here is the link:

    https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing

    I would take some pictures of my trunk wiring but I just had two procedures done to my nose to aid in breathing (kinda important), and I'm just not up to it yet. If no one responds in a week or so I should be able take some pictures at that time.

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