Mach1 Driver

Thats purdy!

Jeez, there is always conflicting information. This is from the Edelbrock website for the 7181, and (4.3 + 5.3 = 9.6)/2 = 4.8" I hope their information is right. And it is a dual plane.

Excellent information. I zeroed in on the intake. That would be an Edelbrock 7181 which has a carb pad height of 4.8", stock being 3.0" As you went EFI and the manifold can be either single or dual plane, can we assume that you chose the dual plane intake?

Yes thanks, I was thinking the same thing

Thank you very much! Wow the carb pad height is only 3". No wonder we have hood clearance issues with most aftermarket intakes on a 351w. What are you running on there now?

According to a post on the Edelbrock forum, the Pro-Flo 4 is too tall and no one has recommended any air cleaner combinations that can make it fit under the hood of a 69 351w. He had to cut a hole in the hood under the scoop. He also responded here on this forum and his handle is "ClubSport":

Does anyone happen to know the height for a stock 69 351w 4V intake manifold? I have a 2V now, but it would help knowing what fits for future considerations like EFI or even various manifolds for carbs. The parts numbers are: C90E-9425-B, C90E-9425-D, or C90E-9425-E Thanks

No, the 70s have several changes to wiring. Midlife would know all of them, but perhaps most notable is that the 70s only had two headlights, the ignition switch was moved to the column, the turn signals and side markers had an odd flashing arrangement, and a fuse link was added at the starter solenoid for the main harness I believe.

There is a "pinned" post at the top of the Technical Forum that has wheel and tire sizes

NPD sells Alloy Metal Products harnesses which are just like the original. BTW, fusiible links weren't used until 1970.

Wow! Did you build a die for those? It looks like I can see a little stretch ripple on that right sheet. Outstanding job, I'd be interested in seeing your process.

It may be in Buckeye Demon's build- go to Project Build Forum, then 69 Mach 408w Build. There is an index on the first page. Look in the paint section for the part you are painting and go to that page in the post. He often gave specifics.

Does this help?

So you were there too?

Page 2 of the Schematic

Watch it sonny!

It sounds like the needles are contacting something and it is impeding their movement, maybe the front face that has the scales is miss-positioned. The front face is removed here. Note the first line where you can use D batteries to operate the meters for testing:

By the way, be sure the IVR has a good ground, or it can't pulse. If you have an aftermarket electronic IVR, it won't work either without a ground, but when working it will give you a steady 5v. This is on page 8 of 69-70 Instrument Gauge Cluster:

This is the entire gauge circuit shown schematically. The area in red is all that resides on the instrument panel. If the IVR pulses then your problem is probably a gauge shorted to the housing. Caution, when testing don't connect 12v directly to the IVR, you need a 10 ohm resistor in front of it.

Maybe Midlife will wander in- he has much more experience with the harnesses and can often tell just by looking at a picture like that what wire it is. That is an odd color. My wife would tell you that I'm color blind, and I am suppose I am in some shades. For instance I have a car whose color is called Pewter (which should be a silver-gray), but I bought the car because it looks like a light gold to me in most light conditions.

This may help: lots of parts houses on line have Latch pillar seal 28182, and looks to be shared with the coupe

There are two versions of the flex circuit: one is for a non-tach car, and another is or a car with a tachometer. Can I assume that since you mention "voltmeter" you really mean ammeter? Or perhaps your ammeter has been converted to a voltmeter? If not done properly that could be a source of trouble also. I suggest you see my post in the "How tos" section on this forum: "Fixing the Instrument Panel" Of special interest to you would be the picture on page 2- read notes #6 and #7. Also see Page 3 "Gauge posts shorting to metal housing". Here is an excerpt from that: GAUGE POSTS SHORTING TO METAL HOUSING This is a VERY frequent problem. The gauge posts must not come in contact with the metal housings. Any time the gauges have been moved or the flex circuit reattached, or in any way taken apart, you definitely need to check for a short circuit. If even one of the gauge posts touches the metal housing, it will create a short, the voltage will drop, nothing will work, and the gauge voltage regulator could be damaged. It is fortunate that the 69/70s have a 10 ohm resistor wire in front of the regulator, so it may survive the short. Clamp one ohmmeter lead to the center metal housing, and clamp the other, in turn, to each temp and fuel gauge post. You must have infinite ohms (no conductivity), if not you need to reposition the gauge(s) so they don’t touch the edge of the holes. Do the same for the oil gauge, connecting one lead to the left housing and the other to each gauge post in turn. This should get you started, but it sounds like you may have a couple of problems. Please let us know what you find- its nice to have closure on the problem.

assuming its the same space as a 69, that looks too tall.

No, it won't shorten the life, since there is little heat at the semiconductior junction- nothing like an incandescent bulb. Pulsing LEDs is the best way to get them to dim the most. Yes you are correct that LEDs have a minimum forward voltage to allow current to flow across the junction. Its usually around 1.2v for red, and 3.6v for blue. FYI, We didn't have white until they figured out how to do blue.

I'm not sure this will help, but may give you some ideas: