Ridge Runner

That hood could be done but you would need a scoop to bond to a 69 hood so the molds could be made ,it would be very expensive to buy that hood and make molds also

The hood i am starting with is from Stang-Aholics .This last hood is really nice so it will not take much to have it ready to make the molds from . When i am finished ,i will have the molds for the short hood and the long hood .

Later on i would like to make a cowl hood and i think the under brace could work with that top so i would only have to make a top mold .

Yes ,it has to be made in two pieces because there is no way to make it in one piece . IT would depend on the top that you wanted to make ,it may require a whole new top and bottom ,the bottom has to fit to the top panel.

the seats are the same but the fiberglass side panels are different where the tray will set in the front ,the 65 panel has a notch in it at the bottom the 69 does not have ,The 69 is straight at the bottom .You could probably modify the 65 tray though and remove the tire pocket .

The molds will take about a week ,they need to cure .The hood top and bottom will be made at the same time ,the next day the bottom will be trimmed and all the mounting steel will be added and bonded to the top still in the mold ,it will sit in the mold for one more day before removing and final trim. About three days to complete one hood .I hope to have it ready to make the first hood next weekend .

65 r model has a different trap door and i don't think the package tray will fit . I bought the one from Stang-aholics .It is the same style but it has 6x9 speaker pods .

I get this hood made ,i am going to try to make a different grill to go with it .I just have to figure out what that might be . Something that will easily bolt in .The machine shop i buy my metal through has a water and sand CNC machine ,i may have slats something like the Mach1 hood scoop grill cut from aluminum or maybe stainless .I will have to think about it for a while .

Oh yes !very rusty inside ,spider webs and a nice big rat nest

I couldn't open the link ,my old computer is about dead I didn't want to use this hood because i wanted to keep it as a template ,i kept the center so i still have a template for a new hood

l I welded in the 3/4 inch square tube ,it is very solid now and will keep its shape . The top is cut out ,i left about 3 inches of the old top to bond the Shelby top to .I may have to cut some of the under brace so the Shelby top will set correctly . I should have the top by Wednesday .

The hood fit great after some bending ,it is flush all the way around the fenders and cowl.Now all i need to do is weld in some bracing under the hood to make sure it keeps it shape and cut out the center.

I got the fenders and headlight buckets bolted on the car .I bet i set the hood in place and took it back off 100 times making sure the edges lined up perfectly,and it does .I will weld some 3/4 inch square tube i have laying around to the bottom of the under bracing to make sure it stays the correct shape .I will get some pics tomorrow ,to tired tonight ,and sunburned . I was surprised just how flimsy a metal hood is ,i could bend it just about any where i wanted to .

All three of my 69s show 40 1/4 inches between the front aprons at the top right in front of the spring towers where the bar will bolt

I decided to use my old shaker hood as a base ,it blew off the car and the center is destroyed but the perimeter is in good shape .The center will be cut away because the 69 Shelby top i will be bonding on has a flatter middle .This will take a little while because i will wind up making 4 molds to get the short hood that i will be making .This hood will be a short 69 Shelby style top but it will use the factory hood molding and will work with the factory fenders and headlight buckets ,it will bolt in the factory locations and will use the original hood springs .It will be made with ISO resin used in boat making so it will be a very tough hood . I will be making the top and bottom from this Shelby hood that i bought for this 69 fast back ,The new top and bottom will be shortened to fit the length of the original steel hood . I will be using my 69 to set up the hood ,it is very straight so fitting it to my car should make it a good fit on any 69. I have a very straight set of 69 front fenders i will bolt in place and a good set of head light buckets to make sure the metal hood follows the top of the cowl and fenders and the headlight buckets the very best they can .

They can be done ,not sure how much call there would be for fiberglass headlight buckets .I have made several molds that turned out to be one of's and that gets expensive ...for me . I made 65-66 buckets and only had one set sell and that was to me . Soon as i get a 69 hood i will start a thread from start to finish .I may bite the bullet and get one from NPD .

Whaaaaaaat! Well i cant wait to see your next one then ,cause this one is fantastic !

Yes mold making is expensive as you first have to make the part so you can make mold then the actual fiberglass hood . It will have the same mounting as the steel hood ,a steel plate inside the hinge area and the latch area drilled and threaded .This hood will not be made with cheap materials ,it will be made with ISO resin ,same as used in marine applications .I will have to make one first to see what it will cost to make .Even with the good materials it will be cheaper than most fiberglass makers ,and when i am finished they will use the factory hinge springs .

I will pretty much have to ruin the metal hood to make the top mold ,the under bracing will have to be cut as well to allow the scoops to go through .The new under bracing will be a short version of the Shelby hood as well so there will be a bit more air cleaner clearance with out the ram air ,or use the ram air with the correct Shelby type air cleaner .The idea of starting with a stock hood is the correct shape and alignment is already there so it is just a matter of bonding the shelby top on and doing the body work and using it as the plug for the mold . The Go Cart body started out as a foam plug made in Holly Hood by a prop builder on a CNC machine ,It had to be coated several times and sanded smooth with a surfacer before i could make the mold ,and that was not fun .The foam body cost $3000 all by its self ,the mold and the first body came to about $3000 .It sold for a bit over $50,000. I kid you not . The grill i made from a factory 37 Ford pick up grill . It was the first piece i made ,i took the original grill to a fiberglass shop and they told me it could not be made so i thought i would try it my self ,it came out Sweeeeet!

I made this Daytona go cart mold and body ,it is 3/4 scale .A friend did the paint and completed it . I collect 35 -37 Ford pickups and grills are hard to find so i made my own 37 grill .A short 69 Shelby hood will be easy compared to these two

It is best to start with a metal hood even though i will have to cut a lot of the center out to change the top .The V in the center of the hood will have to be removed and a Shelby top bonded in place .I will make the top mold off of a 69 long hood i just bought to bond on top of the steel hood . I have done a lot of fiber glass work from mold making to just repairs ,i learned from a cousin that made pickle fork race boats .The steel hood when finished will only be the plug to make the mold as it will be very heavy .If i can get photo bucket to work ,been having trouble loading pics ,i will show a couple of pieces i have made .

I have lots of opinions ....but i am told i have very few thoughts..Hummm. I am thinking of building a short 69 Shelby hood ,the problem is i need a good fitting steel hood to start from .And i probably will have to ruin the steel hood to make the Shelby top ,i can get the Shelby top.I thought about a ford tooling hood to start with but i hate to cut a new hood or spend the money just to cut it up ,or even a good used hood .Maybe a hood with a cut center or burned center ,it just needs a good perimeter that fits the fenders and cowl very well .It will be a fiberglass hood when done and made with the best materials .I should be able to make two types of under brace ,ram air and non ram air .Couple of swap meets coming up so maybe i will find a decent hood to start from.

I have repaired a lot worse than that and that is not totaled ,the insurance company is another matter though,they may take the easy way out .Try to convince them that it is repairable if possible , a classic car should not be held to the same standards as newer car that looses its value after a couple of years .The value of a classic just keeps going up so repairing it should be reasonable .

It would have to be a lot worse than that for it not to be saveable ,if the insurance gives you any trouble show them one of Rusty 428s rebuild threads .Your in Florida ,that is just who i would call. Sorry to hear about it ,that is what i fear will happen to one of mine .After spending all that money ,and it isn't even the money it is the time and pleasure that went into building it then have them total it would kill me .Good luck man

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