69gmachine

If I'm forced to go to an electric fan I'll use a puller fan since I have an AC condenser. There is one other benefit in going electric, and that is I could lower the engine and maybe even slide it back. But both of those are illegal mods in my class, Street Modified. Eventually I plan to install a truck arm rear suspension which will force me into C Prepared. Then I might go ahead and make the move to electric and move the engine at the same time. Most of the cars in C Prepared are gutted race cars that aren't street legal.

I've used an Edelbrock aluminum, stock replacement cast iron and the latest is a flow Kooler aluminum. The Flow Kooler runs the coolest with the gauge just barely past halfway while driving. The Edelbrock runs about 2/3 to hot while driving and will creep up to 3/4 at idle on a hot day. The stock replacement runs about 3/4 to hot pretty much all the time. None of them have enough miles to need replacing although the Edelbrock has about 5K on it. The other 2 less than 1k. I don't think the thermostatic clutches are balanced well enough to operate much over 3K. When I'm racing I stand on the throttle and it just can't handle sustained high rpm runs.

I'm going to start with the cheapest/simplest and go from there. So first thing I'll try is a flex fan and ditch the heavy clutch and factory fan. I just don't like the looks of an electric fan, but I'll do whatever it takes to solve this problem.

Well it happened again. Everything works fine if I just drive around town normally, but as soon as I try to race it (or open track) the water pump pisses everywhere. I've replaced the water pump twice, and the gaskets more than that. I use the best sealant, and I take my time to thoroughly clean and prepare the surfaces. I spoke with an engine builder who builds Ford race engines, and he said I have a vibration problem, possibly from a warped or out of balance pulley. They are all original steel Ford pulleys, so they were certainly not made for racing. He said that's what's causing the bolts to come loose and then allowing the water pump to break the seal. I'm also using a factory thermostatic fan clutch and fan which I suppose could be causing the vibration. I'm going to try a regular flex fan first then a new aluminum WP pulley. The guys at the autocross were super nice. I got a ride in a couple of late model Mustangs. They were both very fast considering they weigh over 3800 lbs. A guy in a Corvette even offered to let me drive his car! I declined because I'm still new to autocross and I didn't want to take a chance wrecking someome else's car. His 'vette has gobs of power and had huge 335 Hoosier A6s.

They are clearly talented with amazing fabrication skills, however, it's a bit too radical for my taste. There's so little left of the orginal Mustang, you can only say it is Mach 1-esque. They could have just bought a few repop parts and fabricated everything from scratch rather than ruin a perfectly good vintage Mustang. Just my .02.

All righty then, sounds like we have a plan. The swap meet will help justify the long drive. If anyone else lives near enough to make the swap meet, I hope you can join us, even if your car isn't ready.

Bump steer results because the arc that the steering linkage goes through is different than the arc that the LCA goes through. When you move the centerlink significantly to one side or the other, the short side will go through a much smaller arc, steering the wheel out as the suspension compresses. That sudden unintentional steering input can cause your car to jump into the next lane or to the shoulder of the road.

Yep, that would be my worst nightmare all right. I'm glad you're OK. I don't think I would have had as much self control once I knew the idiot who caused the problem ignored several warning signs. I've taken myself off the track three times now when I had mechanical problems so i didn't risk endangering anyone else. It sucks, but I'd much rather go home early than ruin someone's car (or possibly kill somone). Good luck with the rebuild. I'm sure it will be even faster and safer than it was before. You will get a 4 point harness before you get out on the track again now right?

Columbus day weekend works great for me, and that coincides with Fall Carlisle. The only day I have booked is Sat Oct 14, otherwise my schedule is wide open.

Just because there is enough adjustability to compensate for the difference in offset, doesn't mean it is "fixed". The bumpsteer geometry will be wildly different between the two sides, and the short side will probably be dangerous (and possibly both sides will be). Don't do it without taking some bump steer measurements or you could kill someone or yourself. When you have to go to court for manslaghter, will you tell them some guy on the internet said it would be fine? If you don't know how to take bump steer measurements, then you don't know enough to re-engineer your steering. If the rack is out of square with the car, the ackerman, turn rate and turn radius will be different between the two sides. That isn't necessarily bad. Ackerman only comes into play with a high turn rate, which means you will be going slow so you could probably get by with it. If the turn radius to the left is greater than the turn radius to the right, you still might be OK as we drive on the RH side so our LH turns generally have a larger turn radius. However, the J-car rack has a relatively short throw to start with, so losing turn radius on either side will be noticeable. Again, take measurements before taking it out on the road. I don't like to do things half assed; I would make the effort to square the rack in the car. If you take a modified aftermarket, assymetrical steering set up like that to any reputable shop, they should turn you away so they aren't liable. For a while I was modifying my suspension frequently so I ended up learning to align it myself. It's time consuming, but with some simple tools you can do it at home.

I'm in no hurry, we need some time to plan anyway. How much time do you need to get your car on the road cavboy?

Not without some other mods. You need to move the passenger side forward the same amount you moved the driver side, and the centerlink will need to be moved over to the passenger side the 3/4 to 1" that you moved the rack housing to keep it centered in the car.

You can tie it into the radio power, a yellow wire with black stripe.

I'm bringing this back from last year since we were never able to get our schedules on the same page. I was waiting for the heat to break since I don't have my AC working. So Jay and anyone else in MD, No VA, or PA who want to get together for a cruise some time this month or next please chime in. I'd still like to go to CJ Pony Parts, but I'm open to other ideas as well.

It sounds like you're missing the engine gauge feed. Do you have a box of parts to look through? It plugs into the same group of wires at the firewall where the AC plug comes through, just below and to the left (when facing the engine) of the wiper motor.

Your door panels came out looking great chillin, but since you have an aftermarket gauge cluster I think it made it easier to change everything else. I would have to get a replacement for the wood grain dash pieces which would probably cost a fortune to look nice. My kids don't like the woodgrain either... too old fashioned and cheesy looking for them, but hey they're kids. What do they know?

The 315s out back are bad ass! With the wider anvil CF front fenders how wide were you able to go up front? Spoiler looks wicked, just have to really watch out for speed bumps.

The brown wire on the "I" terminal is only needed for a points type ignition to give a temporary boost to 12V at start. I'm using this wire to provide the retard at start signal to the Duraspark module since I have 12V hard wired to the ignition. For anyone who has modified their wiring harness to provide 12V continuously, the "I" circuit serves no purpose.

He took the reading on the 20K scale, so of course it reads zero. He needs to be on the 20 volt scale or lower to read .75 to .81 ohms.

Along the same lines as Junior mentions, if you're installing all stock replacement stuff, then painting first isn't such a big deal as everything should just bolt on and you just need to take your time and be careful. However, if you're going to install aftermarket anything, I'd recommend you do the installation before paint and remove if you feel you have to. There's almost always something that has to get modified when installing aftermarket performance stuff so it's best to get those things done before painting. Then it's just a matter of bolting everything back together like stock stuff.

I think a lot of people could use the front panels, and if they were sturdy and not prone to cracking, they would be an ideal replacement.

D'oh!! OK, I deleted some emails. Sorry about that.

That's a disc brake pedal all right. The switch straddles the booster. I always put the hole on the inside next to the pedal and the U on the outside of the booster. The 69 and 70 boosters have different pushrods. The 69 bends down whereas the 70 is straight back. I managed to connect a 70 booster to a 69 pedal, but that may be part of the problem your having. What does the pushrod on your booster look like? Is from the same year?

I'm using a carter mechanical pump with 1/2" line from the tank to the pump and 3/8" line from the pump to the carb. I radiused the outlet on the pump to help with flow. I can't remember if I modified the pump for AN fittings or just screwed in adapters. Otherwise the pump is stock.

The specs on your cam are very similar to mine although your cam is a tad more aggressive. I'm running 232i and 240e @ .050 on a 112 LSA with .565i and .574e. I haven't had any issues with my booster, and I'm running a single plane. Have you checked to make sure the booster doesn't have a slow leak? Perhaps at idle it isn't pulling enough to overcame the rate of a slow leak. It would be a shame for your cam to be just a hair over the line on what the booster needs.