barnett468

hello; i might try opening one bleedder at a time for five minutes, if no fluid comes out you have an obstruction somewhere. if fluid comes out slow but steadily, let it drain for 2 minutes. refill master then do the rest. of they all bleed but it does not help much i would try bench bleeding the master again with the nose titled upward slightly. then repeat the gravity bleed method. also, i would make sure the safety valve is centered then lock it down during bleeding. .

Hello; Also need to know if you will be doing a lot of fwy driving and if so, at what speed. your current gears will allow you to comfortably cruise at 70 - 75 mph but will obviously suck for acceleration. if you have a 3 spd auto or 4 spd and typical 25 1/2" - 26" tall tires, around 3.40 is a nice combo for decent acceleration but still maintaining comfy cruise speeds of around 68 mph. also, the rpm range of the engine affects the gear ratio requirements. here's a calculator to have fun with. http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php

Unfortunately, the problem with his comments is that he doesn't explain in a clear, concise, chronological way, exactly what he did. He never says whether he had it connected to ported or manifold vac in the first place. He never says whether he tested it on both ports after changing the vacuum chamber setting after he finally realized that some of them are adjustable including his. He therefore leaves the reader to make assumptions if they choose to that can lead to an incorrect conclusion. Their are proper ways to perform and document "scientific" testing that leads to reasonable, understandable, conclusions, and repeatable results. Unfortunately, he did not do that. He also said quote, "I finally dialed it back to around 5 to 7 degrees at idle...". Ok, well it sounds to me like his timing at idle was 7 degrees after he adjusted the can. Well, since stock is 6 degrees, if in fact he only had 7 at idle, it sounds like he wasn't getting much advance if any from the vac can. He also did not say if the vacuum advance even added any timing after he got done reducing the timing it provided by adjusting the can. You can adjust the cans so they will not provide any additional timing, and since he did not clearly, specifically, state if he even checked to see if it did, his comments are unfortunately not useful in any way. What was his timing at idle from both ported and manifold vac before and after the can adjustment? What was his total timing before and after? What rpm did it reach max/total timing? Without this info, it is impossible to replicate exactly what he did by his comments and know exactly what timing he ended up with. All we really know is that his idle timing MAY have been 7 deg btdc after he was finished, and his car went fast after he did whatever it is he did, ok...great. “After years of running MSD dizzy without vacuum advance then going to a Ford dizzys with disconnected vacuum advance because I couldn't get them to run right… I could never get vacuum advances to work on my motor no matter what carb, port or dizzy I tried. I found several articles and posts that told me a trick I did not know; limiting the amount of vacuum advance by using an Allen wrench inserted into the vacuum canister where the vacuum tube inserts.” Ok, so he admits that he has no idea what he is doing or how a vac adv can works. “So I opened up an old vacuum canister to see how it worked. The vacuum pulls toward the vacuum tube. If you insert an Allen wrench and "Unscrew" it - it unscrews a large plate toward the vacuum tube connector which limits the amount of travel on the canister.” Turning the screw out also affects when the can is activated. The farther out the screw is, the more vacuum it takes to initiate movement but he made no mention of that so my guess is that he never figuered that part out. “With my Performer RPM flat tappet cam, I get about 10 to 11 inches vacuum which was pulling 20 degrees of advance on a stock cannister when I put the vacuum line on.” He does not say if he connected his vacuum line to ported or manifold. It “sounds” to me like he connected it to ported, however, as Max Power mentioned earlier, many people that have big cams simply open their throttle plates until their car idles, which in many cases causes the ported vacuum to have vacuum, so it is also entirely possible that this is exactly what this person did. There is no proof either way, so this particular info is not helpful. "Vacuum advance vs mechanical only - Proved it..." Although I do appreciate his effort and enthusiasm, the only thing I think he really "proved", is that he is not an experienced "tester" because I can't make heads or tails of EXACTLY what it is he did and is saying. .

lol i like the way you think however in reality it would really be cruel and heartless of of us to destroy some...ok all of the vette guys and some other chevy owners beliefs . with actual facts. . i have actually had a bunch of 50 and 60s vettes bel airs and chevells as well as fords and mopars and i actually restore cars for a living so this is how i knew that what he said about cars ufrom the factory having manifold vac was questionable and after seeing that um aticle appear i decided to simply see if i could find any that did that because i had never seen it and like to learn new things because i know that i dont know it all and i gave the author the benefit of the doubt so i spent a lot of time looking for this elusive set up and other than the possibility of the fuelie vette i mentioned i could not find any . now this certainly does not mean that none of them were set up this way but in my experience i have never seen it . . oh by the way i would really hate to tell them that the vacuum graph i posted was actually made by a gm guy with a gm car.. . . yes marks car is or was killer but he drives it a bit so its getting some dust and patina on it .. . he actually restored the orange boss race car for the old trans am driver too.. . ofbeb

oh yeah...factory fiberglass hood, veeeery cool. my friend has 4 67 427 r codes. i hate him... .

LMAO! i wonder what they would do if if "someone" did that, lol. they could search from now till kingdom come and may never find a car that used manifold vac from the factory other than possibly the fuel injected vettes. Hey, i see the words boss 302 in your sig. do you lurk on the boss registry and/or know mark with the red 70 in fallbrook/san diego?

the factory dizzy is also set for emissions, and in many cases has less mechanical advance than an engine can tolerate but they are easily curved. as far as me saying anything about running manifold vac with a big cam, that is not what i am suggesting. my others comments should hopefully make that clear and i apologize if it sounded otherwise. one can figure out what their engine likes by using as much of a scientific approach as possible and run it, the engine itself will determine or tell us what it wants, its pretty simple. as far as big cams needing to have the throttle partially open to idle causing the ported vac circuit to be operational, this is very easily cured in most typical street car apps by either drilling holes in the front butterflies and/or opening the secondaries slightly etc.. in some cases the idle feed restrictors might need to be enlarged but this is fairly uncommon in my experience. i have done the other things way more times than i can count but prefer to leave the secondary plate in the "stock" position if possible. in most cases where it is not possible to get the throttle plate closed enough to shut vacuum off to the ported vac port, these cams are bigger than what i would consider daily driver street builds and would consider them to be more of a drag race cam that someone is running on the street and if someone chooses to run a drag race cam on the street they can expect that their ported vac will be operational at idle. they should also not be overly concerned about running a vacuum adv dist anyway imo. also the more advance one can run at idle, the more closed the throttle plates can be. i always set the idle timing and fuel mix screws to the optimum level before drilling anything. .

Hello Juit; As I mentioned, ported vacuum is exactly the same as manifold vacuum after the throttle is partially open, here's proof. One can also easily do this test for themselves if they have two vacuum gauges. The time from just past 15 to just past 16 is steady throttle with the pedal depressed around 8% of the way with slightly increasing load on the vehicle. This closely resembles cruise mode at around 30 mph. Notice that both the ported and manifold vacuum are virtually the same here also. ....... .

Ok, here’s just part of what the rocket scientist (sorry, purported GM engineer) said, which is wrong, incorrect, inaccurate or whatever. “Now to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements… …all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle.” There were ABSOLUTELY NO EMISSIONS REQUIREMENTS in 1956 when Chevy used PORTED vacuum (not manifold vacuum as the “engineer” states or implies etc..), and in fact, they used what is called a road draft tube instead of a pcv valve to vent the crankcase. A road draft tube is nothing more than an open tube that vents the crankcase onto…wait for it….THE ROAD. I may be very mistaken but I personally do not think that this is the least bit environmentally friendly or emission reduction related and I’m guessing that the guy in the car that is behind one of these cars and which is getting splattered from gas contaminated oil that is spewing out if this tube that is connected to an old worn out engine that has excessive blowby, thinks it is either. Also, 40 years BEFORE federal automotive emissions standards would be around 1926. Well the 1926 Ford didn’t even have a vacuum advance. It had a mechanical one that was operated mechanically by a lever mounted on the steering wheel! “This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC).” One should try setting their timing to 2 degrees atdc then connecting their vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and see if their car will even start. The ignition timing of a 1956 Chevy V8 is 4 degrees btdc and since there were no emissions standards at that time, Chevy could have put it wherever they wanted to, so why did they decide to use only 4? “This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it.” Try running 22 degrees of idle timing from manifold vacuum on a 10:1 or higher compression engine that has a multi fire ignition box like an MSD 6 series. Auto and industrial emissions history http://www.autolife.umd.umich.edu/Environment/E_Overview/E_Overview4.htm Look at the photos below. The very common 1956 Chevy V8 distributor vacuum advance was obviously connected to ported vacuum. ...................................................1956 chevy factory 2 barrel v8 carb. ...................................................... . 1956 chevy factory vacuum advance routing. .

I would look sat a 670, 700 or 735 annular or downleg booster type carb. The mileage on any given engine is always related to the right foot, lol. Yes, the later the seconds open, the better the mileage. That duration on that cam is a bit too long on the ex compared to the intake. it would probably be happier with a comp cams xe262h or 268h. Also FYI, you need at least 1 5/8" primary header tubes with that.

but...but...the author claimed he is a rocket scientist. Plus, it's on the internet so it must be true.

well its obvious to me from his statements that he simply doesn't understand what he is saying and he sounds like he is simply repeating what the other person wrote in the other link posted on your thread which is factually partially right and partially wrong, and since both are partially wrong and some people that read it or see the video don't know enough to be able to tell which parts are right and which parts are wrong, it's not helpful, and doing what is suggested can reduce performance in some cases and possibly cause some type of engine damage in other cases. as i mentioned, not all engines are the same, some have bigger cams or higher compression than others etc., and some have different gearing, and all these things factor into a particular engines timing requirement . . also the blanket statement that engines run lean at idle and cruise is simply ludicrous . . i can make any engine run lean or "ideal" or rich, at both idle and cruise and so can you . . just turn your fuel mix screws out 4 turns and stuff some 95 size main jets in your carb and i guarantee you that it will be both rich at idle and cruise. in general terms, when an engine is jetted properly, it never runs lean or rich, it simply runs at the "ideal" ratio which is not perfectly achievable on a carbureted, non computer controlled engine. ignition timing is a bit like jetting and beer. too little OR too much is bad, and one size actually does NOT fit all, lol. .

hello; thanks for the info and none of those things would necessitate the use of manifold vac and nine would cause it to run hot at idle. a lean carb could cause it to run a bit hotter at cruise speed but these things really aren't the cause of your prob.

no prob your welcome . everyone simply wants the best outcome for you . . i have tried ported vac on many engines but rarely used it so hopefully this explains my comments more . . i am connected to ported vacuum and run 12 at idle and 34 all in at 2600 on one of my moderate hp 302 engines. also, in your case, if you run between 8 to 12 and it runs warmer than it has before, you have a problem that is unrelated to timing . . engines that are bored .030 or more will typically run warm in warm weather with a stock 2 row rad . if an engine is .060 it definitely needs a big rad . . if you do not have a fan shroud it can run overly warm etc.

also, as someone asked, yes, i can definitely tell some things by knowing if a rad is aluminum or not, especially if it is made overseas. . the bottom line as i and some others have mentioned,, is that in your case, if you have overheating or performance problems using ported vacuum and typical timing settings, you have other, bigger problems that are causing these things. . also once your engine is runninng, it will idle and run the same irregardless of whether it is connected to ported or manifold vac because 10 degrees of idle timing is still 10 degrees no matter how you go about getting it. also it is optimal too run almost as much timing as an engine can tolerate under normal driving conditions irregardless of how this is achieved.

hello juit. . first of all with all due respect i think you are asking the wrong question because telling you what timing i run on my 500 hp engine with a blower on it wont help solve your particular overheating problem. . this is why i gave you a general spec that i have run on maybe 1000 cars. . also unlike possibly some others here i am also aware of your carb issue which i tried to help you with which unfortunately you still seem to have some problem with, and timing and jetting are somewhat inter related. one of the reasons i asked so many questions is because not everyone thinks of looking at all the things i mentioned, and even though you said it did not run hot before the change to a different vacuum source, you could still have a partially plugged radiator or an excessively stretched timing chain or slipped damper ring etc.. . if your chain or damper ring are incorrect your timing numbers will be abnormal and therefore difficult to properly set. manifold vac mainly affects idle it will not improve mileage much if at all because as soon as your throttle is opened more than around 1/8 of the way ported and manifold vac are exactly the same. . . also you cannot or should not run the timing retard section of a duraspark box unless it is determined that it will be beneficial in your particular case. .

connecting to manifold vac is the last option and is used mainly on engines with huge cams. none of the mfg's did that on distributors that had both mechanical and vacuum advance. your engine will run improperly if you have either too little OR too much timing. your car should have sufficient timing if you use the specs i suggested. its possible your timing is incorrect due to a slipped outer damper ring or excessively stretched timing chain. you need to check these things or set the idle timing by ear, rpm and a vacuum gauge.

well i have no idea what is wrong with your carb. the springs are colored. the heaviest will open the secondaries the latest and slowest so you will be running on 2 barrels most of the time. this will eliminate bogging from them opening to soon but it will not eliminate bogging from improper jetting..

looks like it holds the plastic clamp that holds your wires in place.

we need answers to all these questions to best help you otherwise we will be guessing. typical timing on a mild build with 10:1 or less static compression is around 10-12 at idle and 32-34 total at around 2600-2800 rpm. what is your compression? what is your timing is at idle? what was it before he changed it? plug the dist vacuum for now. what yis our timing at idle with it unplugged? what is the total timing? what rpm does it reach total timing? what heads do you have? exactly what are your cam specs? what is your rear gear ratio? how far is it bored over? what is your outdoor air temp? how wide is your rad? how many rows deep 2. 3 or 4? how thick is the core? is it aluminum or brass? what is your thermostat rating? have you looked in your rad to see if any tubes look plugged? how big is your carb? what are the jet sizes? does it run hot at idle or on the freeway or both? .

ok, the box stock 4 barrel carb on a box stock ford is....550 cfm. my listings are NOT for box stock engines, however, i have driven around 10 zillion box stock type engines that were bored .030" - ,040" over with stock type or very close to stock type cams and they run fine with a 600 cfm holley straight leg booster non smog vacuum secondary carb with the heavy secondary spring in them on eddy performer manifolds. if you put an rpm manifold on them, they will run poorly off the bottom. if you do not run the heavy spring they typically bog a bit when the secondaries open. you can run a 750 on a stock 302 engine and it will NOT run rich if it is properly jetted and you don't floor it from a dead stop. if you have a 600 cfm, your carb size is not your prob, its simply impossible. .

actually that is not correct or realistic. any of those engines with even the slightest bit of hp all need at least 75 cfm more. heres a realistic estimate of the minimum sizes. 289 - 600 cfm (this was factory on the 271 hi po. the shelby had 715 which was a little big.) 302 - 600 boss 302 - had a 780 351 - 650 boss 351 - had a 780 390 - 650 428 - 700 (735 was stock on the cobra jet which was no rocket ship high hp engine.)

hello first of all, there is no point in trying to adjust camber until your ride height is set. set your ride height by cutting your springs AFTER, every single piece of the car is on the car and rad has water and the gas tank is 1/2 full. the springs will typically settle around 1/2" after a month of driving. move the car a few feet while pushing down on it after cutting so the front end settles. i think that cutting 1 full coil = around 2" - 2 1/2" lower. cut a little at a time.

yes. the filter will still get oily up higher but it will take a little longer.

. Here's a nice orig for 68-69. http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c8zz-2b257-b.html