barnett468

put the machined face of each manifold against each other and look for any gap . . if there is one then one or both are warped . . if the gap is more than around .015", they may burn the gasket out prematurely. i would use anti seize or grease on the bolts. .

Google is your friend. http://www.avautoglass.com/news.html

well, when you show it i would think the top and windows would down so no one would see the difference anyway.

. The following is only for clarification . . It is not intended to be argumentative, abrasive, or off topic, as imo some of the posts from others on this thread have been. My thanks to SA69mach, Max Power, Juit and others for their comments. I never said, nor implied, that a cast Chinese crank would break at 500 hp. My friend is considering getting a custom cam from Chris Straub on my suggestion and is weighing whether to run a forged or cast crank in his particular application due to limited funds, so I told him what I had read and to ask Chris Straub if he had ever said that a forged crank could ever be harmful to run in any size or type of stock block and specifically in a 351 Windsor since that is what these comments were about and is also what my friend is building. His exact reply is posted at the bottom of the page. If one wants a custom cam or Morel lifters, or recommendations as to which crank is best to run in a particular application, I recommend him as another source. Full email reply from Chris Straub. “I would not have said that. What I would have said is a steel crank, cast or steel, in an OEM 302 or 351W block will last longer than the block as the blocks wont’ take as much HP as what the cranks will making them the weak link. Fords main webbing is the not the strongest that is why main girdles are used on Fords. Chris www.straubtechnologies.com Post 8 from Scott Foxwell in the link below. "For as inexpensively as you can get a Scat (or other import) forged crank, why bother with the cast? On a bottom end, I say buy once, cry once. Build it to last and don't look back. Having said that, the Scat 9000 cranks for what they are are probably the best bang for the buck. Just don't expect them to be something they're not. I'd never use one out of the box and personally wouldn't recommend one for a performance build." http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259142 .

unless you are building a concourse car the color doesn't matter . . if you are building a concourse car then you need to have the date and other info etched on it or you will loose points and this might cost $100.00 or more. .

. FYI - some headers will hit an AOD. .

. you can gain around 1/4" more clearance if you run shackles like the ones below because the nut will be on the other side. http://www.drakeautomotivegroup.com/Store/Category/Suspension/Leaf%20Springs%20and%20Shackles.aspx?wid=141&page=2 you may loose some hp with 2 1/2" pipes. .

Killer car.

are you sure? . . all i saw was 1 inch offset which should be either 3 or 5 inch backspace depending on which way they are offset . .if that is the case then 245 x 50 might hit when the wheel is turned and the suspension iss compressed . . the only way to be sure is remove a front spring then install one wheel and tire and compress the suspension 2 inches at a time with a floor jack turning the wheel to full lock in both drections each time . . .. mt

. hopefully those have around 4 3/4 back space otherwise you will be more limited on tire selection . . if they are offset to the inside more than this, you can use 5/16" wheel spacers if you need. i would look at 245 x 50 - 17 = 26.6 tall x 9.7 wide . . same height and width as 245 x 60 - 15. .

. hello . . i would suggest the following as one option. exits on the side are pretty loud as BuckeyDemon says [ok actually they are really f'n loud with a high horse engine, lol] and kinda defeat your goal of not being "too loud" imo . . i had them on a few cars including a big block cobra and a 65 shelby and they really drove me nuts. with 500 hp, i would run 2 3/4" to 3" pipe . . if you use an x pipe with 2 3/4", i seriously doubt if will cost you any hp overall . . the problem is that there is incredibly little room for 3" over the axle and next to the gas tank so it would take a near miracle worker along with a big wad of cash to do that. a straight thru muffler will have the least hp loss . . anytime you put a bend in an exhaust pipe it can cost you some amount of hp. as far as headers go, you need ones that have the same or bigger opening size as the heads and have 1 7/8 tubes . . you can loose overall hp if you go too big too. heres a dynomax muffler sound comparison video the double wall stainless mufflers shown at the 4:30m mark will be drone free and the quietest straight thru mufflers i am aware of and are good to 1000 hp and would be one of my choices for your app . . i would also avoid "chambered" mufflers for your noise and drone level goal. .

Yes, but it's "safer" for the ozone layer...yes...no...maybe...kinda sorta...

An FMX uses a different shift box and shift rod than the other auto transmissions. .

Hello Raven R Code; 1. Don't drink your paint or smell the fumes or get it on you. 2. Do not lick you car (or tractor), or put Chinese made toys in your mouth. "WASHINGTON, June 18 — China manufactured every one of the 24 kinds of toys recalled for safety reasons in the United States so far this year. The latest recall, announced last week, involves 1.5 million Thomas & Friends trains and rail components. The toys were coated at a factory in China with lead paint, which can damage brain cells, especially in children. Just in the last month, a ghoulish fake eyeball toy made in China was recalled after it was found to be filled with kerosene. Over all, the number of products made in China that are being recalled in the United States by the federal Consumer Product Safety Commission has doubled in the last five years. It also means that China today is responsible for about 60 percent of all product recalls, compared with 36 percent in 2000." .

Hey Ridge Runner, thanks for the correction...yeah that's WAY better than lead or cyanide . . Maybe they will eventually determine that Arsenic is bad for us and replace it with something even safer like Ricin. OMG . . I think i just got a hernia!

. if you need them right away the following will work...maybe: bell housing to eng = 7/16" x 1 5/8 with lock washer motor mount to eng = 7/16" x 1 1/4" with lock washer. starter to eng = 3/8" x 1 3/8" with lock washer. trans mount to trans = 7/16" x 1 3/8" with lock washer. take these pieces to the store to confirm size . . the bolt should just barely fit in the holes/ motor mount to frame = 3/8" x around 3 1/2" with 2 flat washers 1 lock washer and 1 nut. Use grade 8 washers. cross member to frame = 3/8" x measure the width of cross member. trans mount to cross member n= 7/16 nut lock washers and grade 8 flat washers and 2 standard grade 5 washers with a large outside like fender washers . .

if you turn your wheel all the way and compression the suspension all the way it will likely hit.

ok, don't read the ingredients because you won;y use any paint or primer . . they switched from one formulae to a more environmentally one that had cyanide or something in it . . i kid you not . . it said so right on the label . . one of my friends rarely wore the special gear and got permanent nerve damage. i used ppg solvent base red and add around 20% black primer to it.

lol, yes, one of the ingredients is high levels of lead if i remember correctly . . they also discontinued one of the ingredients that they used in red colors. .

.you should not connect the choke to the ignition wire . . it should go the the alternator. .

lay it flat connect the tester to the ends and it should have no continuity press the rubber like you are honking the horn and it should have continuity. you can spray a little soapy water on it and the wheel to ease installation. .

in case you have never seen 225 x 70 - 15's on a mustang, they look almost like truck tires on the front because of the tall sidewall and the od. you can put 215 x 65 - 18's on a 7" rim . . i have done this also but they don't look really wide. i'm sure you know you could lower the front with lowering springs and the rear with lowering blocks. .

yes sadly they are hard to find . . bf goodrich used to make them . . i bought dozens of them for the 69 - 70 machs.

. i would only buy carlite glass . . $220.00 from npd . . any glass shop can order it. https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Mustang_Windshield-498-1.html if the car you are working on did not use a rubber seal from the factory, i would have a pro install it with urethane . . i have done several and if you do not use enough and get air gaps you need to squeeze some around the edge where the gap is to try and seal it . . it costs around $125.00 to have it installed where i am. .

between what 2? the taurus fan and the spall produce the same cfm . . the taurus comes with a shroud that you can adapt if your rad is 20" wode, otherwise you can cut it down . . the spall has no shroud and is much easier to mount but only has one speed but you can add a fan controller to that one too if you want. if it were me, i eould be happy to take the easy route and buy the spal . . if it does not cool yur engine, your rad is too smsall . . the biggest problem us the near $200.00 price. engine cooling is quite expensive to do. .