bryonbush

how did you who have the 24" radiator mount it if you didnt have the brackets? im at the point where i make some type of mounting tabs or buy some brackets.

Where in TX you located?

so i MAY HAVE found something that could really help out. i found on a bronco forum that the E40D had a vertical MLPS and the selector shaft facing up. Does anyone know if the E4's used a push or pull for their drive selection? Im trying to use my stock shifter which pushes the the selector shaft, not pull like cable operated.

thanks Black. MIkestang and I were discussing it over text and shot me over some measurements of the newer shifter. I did find a member over on VMF who was about the first one to do the conversion back in 03. it's an old post so some of the pics didnt work anymore. he was able to get the stock cable from the 08 to work with the c4 shifter. the only issue was the shifter in the car not hitting R perfectly which to me, is no big deal as im hardly in R

another guy on the VMF facebook page said he took the same shifter and cable as well out of an 02 stang that said it fit well. but since im talking to you via text, we'll discuss it there.

Pics

ran into an issue while on the power tour. This is going to be long that way I can be as detailed as possible. We lost the ability to start the car in park, but the car would still go into park. No biggie as we just dropped it down into neutral and it started. Well one night we were going to head out for dinner and it wouldn't upshift. took it to the parts store, figure out the MLPS, got a new one and we were off. Next morning, no park start or neutral but we get back home. yesterday i saw that the tabs in the MLPS were stripped out, making it so the controller didnt know what gear the car was actually in. After more digging, i found out that the curve in the shift linkage was hitting the MLPS, forcing it outwards as the linkage continued to turn, thus stripping the tabs flat. what also doesn't help is the fact that with the MLPS inverted, it's not setting as deep onto the linkage as it usually would. Talked to the guy at the trans shop and he said he would get me a late model linkage that has a bolt on tab, that way i can bend the tab as needed. the problem is, im using a bent piece of bar stock made by someone who makes crossmemers for this type of swap, to hold the MLPS onto the linkage. the reason for this is because the mounting holes on the trans, and the MLPS dont line up. If using this bar, it will be difficult to have a tab on the outside of the linkage. B&M #40504 shows to have a good amount of slotted area for the MLPS to sit. While i have plenty of space out to the side up the trans, i dont have much room at all to play with for the tabs to be running upwards as it will hit the side of the floor pan. i dont have a problem going to a cable, but i almost need to use my stock shifter as that's the only thing that will fit my TMI full center console. I'm not sure if anyone has knowledge or experience in this, but would it be possible to use some type of cable with the stock shifter? if you guys have any pictures of you you mounted your mlps, shifters, or suggestions, it would be a great help.

yesterday we decided to drive home instead on continue on towards Kansas City due to an issue arrising with the trans controller. A couple times on 35 in OK we got caught in traffic which resulted on some high temps. Pulled over, let it cool, Then drove the shoulder to keep it cool with the hood up. We made a stop at Turner Falls in OK and decided to check the fluid levels as we never had a chance after the first over heat. we were able to pour in two 16 oz bottles in which seamed to help some while in Dallas traffic. Im still on the fence about going to a bigger radiator or not. I can make mounting tabs that i saw another guy make that should save some money and solve fitment issues. I already have the contour fans with the 2 10" fans and a new controller coming from Flexolite. I'm thinking about going to a Champion 2 row, 24" vs the 3 row to help with any possible clearance issues.

surprised to see that there wasn't all that many stangs out here. we joined up in Dallas and in Kansas now and maybe all of 30 mustangs (classics) out here. Camaros had the corner on the market.

On the power tour now and this is the longest ive driven my car since it's been assembled. I currently have a champion 3 row 20" with a 2200 CFM pusher fan. Well, while heading to OKC, sitting in traffic in 95* weather, my flex-o-lite controller gave up. We hard wired the fan to run all the time on high to get going. Problem is, today while sitting in traffic, the fan really struggled to keep it cool. So here's where im at: I purchased the contour fans thinking i had a 24" rad but i didnt. Im thinking about getting a 24" rad but i'm not sure how it mounts up as i dont have the brackets. mine bolts right to the wall. So is there a way without spending $100 on brackets to mount the 24"? I talked to one guy who had the same problem. he put his mechanical fan back on to help pull air, while the elec fan pushed. Ideas on this?

I chased issues for a long time and spent a lot of money for nothing. All for a bad msd box.

im going! picking up my dad at DFW on the 14th, doing our registration and hanging out there for a little bit. staying at the house for the night then heading north on the 15th.

Is this with stock power steering or with borgeson? How much does his rebuild service cost?

that's a though one. while my pump wasn't new, it had no problems like worn ones show signs of. no hum, whine or leaks. I read that the stock system puts out 7-750 psi and the borgeson is pushing 1200. that's a big difference in pressure which really shows in this box. were also talking about going from a hydraulic ram to push and pull, to much smaller valve system in the borgeson box. that alone requires more pressure to operate than our pumps could offer. while at higher rpm's our pumps did OK, at idle speeds there's no way it could handle what the borg box required.

i just did mine and i had to go to the borgeson pump. The factory pump just couldn't do it and trying to make turns at slow speeds was almost like driving a manual car. as for the cost being worth while, that's a though one. i didn't have a problem with how the steering felt but it was leaking and the box needed being rebuilt pretty bad. To be fair, im not sure how much different it would be if i just rebuilt or bought a new box. It's a tough call because by the time you order the kit, you could start putting that towards a rack.

glad it worked out. i was going to suggest looking into your trans. a guy in the Dallas area did the 4R swap and was having the same issue. come to find out the input shaft was out of round.

ive always liked the material that the corvettes and Audi's have. its like a leather/swede material. i like the wood one i have, but wouldnt mind getting a newer one. the problem im having is with the new TMI seats, and this busted up knee, i almost need a wheel like ones in the indy cars with the flattened bottom part.

return to center isnt horrible, its just not what it used to be or is on new cars. with that said, even without getting my alignment done, its not too bad. i came to the conclusion that the original pump will have to go. it just cant supply the power needed to make sharp turns without feeling like im going to break the wheel. $280 for Borgeson's pump seems high. im wondering if going to a foxbody pump would be a more economical answer but dont want to be chasing the tail trying to get brackets and hoses to fit together again.

i bought a set of Koni Strt off amazon for a great deal. i went from Monroe blues to this and it made a huge difference.

luckily i didn't have to trim mine but im very close. Got home today after being gone for the last few days and got to work while the wife and kid was gone. wrapped everything up and took it for a test drive. overall im happy with it and i think it will only improve with a proper alignment. with the stock power steering pump you can tell its pretty under powered for this unit. with idle RPM's its just little better than no power steering but you can definitely tell the pump is lacking the power. We dont have any cool twisty winding roads but i did carve the roads when there was no traffic. as others have said, the return to center is pretty much a no go but hopefully will improve.

running hoses through holes and into an unprotected area seems like a bad idea. and if you have seen these hoses, they arnt that small in diameter. If i was to make my hoses this is how i would do it: make the hose from the pump go straight down to go under the car. then run the hose against the sub frame under the headers but above the steering components. the house can then go back up to the box. if there was a draw option on here id do it the problem with the borgeson hoses is the end that goes to the box leads you right towards the shock tower. lucky this end is AN hose compatible and you can buy fittings to adjust, but that just adds to the cost to cobble something together. then as you can see with my pics, the pump end leaves you very litttle option other than to buy a bracket to move the pump out, or to buy fittings, or make a new hose. also the return hose was way to short as well, so i had to buy a longer piece. by the time i was done, i was well over $100 in hoses and fittings to get it to work. making new hoses would've been a little cheaper, and made for a cleaner/easier set up. here is a crappy quick paint drawing showing how i would run the hose if i made new ones. all the other pictures arnt mine

Look up the thread Borgeson install question. You'll see my posts about the hose issue with headers. When I get to a desk top I'll write more about it

After my ordeal with the hoses, I would recommend having your own made rather than buy the borgeson hoses. Cheaper in the long run and will be way easier than dealing with fittings.

Borgeson wasn't the issue with the fittings, it was Ford. But today I got it taken care of! A 90* and a spacer, and we're in business! It moved it away from the headers like I hoped. Now just need to run the return line and see how it goes. Should any type of thread sealer be used?

well, the fight continues as the fitting is not a 6 or 8an. i went to two hose makers and no one had fittings. tomorrow i got one more option and if they dont have fittings, i might up having to go with a whole new hose. i wrote borgeson an email so we'll see what they have to say.