bryonbush

anyone have any experience with ridetech coilover set up? got offered a pretty good deal on the front end kit

Those fit the 69?

i took my door panels off and found the passenger side window set up is all jacked up. found some parts on the door floor and the window roller on the back side of the door is completely gone. Ive been looking all over for the rollers for a 69 but having no luck. Mustang Unlimited has them for the 67/68 that looks like it would work. My options are: new regulator or try to get the one from MU and see if it works. anyone have a roller or a regulator they want to sell? anyone have suggestions on which way to go? Thanks

Does anybody know the name or the part that goes into the window track? I found this going on when I took off my door panel this afternoon

this year there would have to be highways with the routes or it would take a year to get from Dallas to OKC going the back way. so i have new brakes, tires, engine, trans and suspension so hopefully im good. just wondering what others bring for tools and supplies. what do yall do to get ready? the most ive ever gone was about 1.5 hours one way non stop but that was all highway. no issues but this is a little different.

i have to say i've been watching youtube videos of the tour and pretty excited about it. Looks like a lot of low speed driving though which means ill have to get my electric fans wired up and on par before i go.

might have to do it this year even if its just from Dallas to OK.

at this point i think it's safe to move on and start a different thread.

unless I missed the part where it says the pumps are included, $400 for just the tank is pretty high. as for the hard line, i dont see why that would be a problem. running the return line on the passenger side for me is just for simplicity. feed line is on the driver side. return off the EFI unit is on the passenger. its a straight shot to the firewall then down the passenger side then to the drain plug which is on the passenger side as well. easiest way of doing it.

thought I'd jump in on this as well. I made the switch in march. I had the C4 and got a yoke from the trans shop. I kept the stock shaft and so far no issues. I made my own trans mount but to be honest, I was off on my measurements and my driveline angle is a little off. I kept my stock shifter but the gear positions are just a little off. I made a shift linkage out of a small tie rod end and cleavis end with threaded rod in the middle. This keeps the action nice and smooth, but your shift rod wont slip connecting to the rod in the car. One I made a youtube video showing the tuning of the controller. Search Baumann Controller and it should pop up. Im happy with it but every once and a while ill get a hard shift. I changed the shift setting which helped, but still happens every so often. Baumann said that if it's happening, to run the ground and hot wires directly to the battery to ensure a good connection. I haven't done it yet, just throwing it out there. forgot to add: I have a 351W. I ran doug Try-Y's and had no issue with clearance around the bell housing.

I'm thinking about rigging an in tank pump up to the sending unit like this

I can get you some pics tonight of my 69 vert. Mine go under but I'm running headers.

the flickering issue started before I put in these new bulbs. And the Halogens arnt the high tech H4 ones, just basic Scott Drake's which draws no more power than the others according to their specs. I replaced the headlight and the dimmer switch. the down side is i dont know if it was the new headlight switch or putting the new alt/volt regulator on that started the issue. What i do find odd is it seems like the two outside bulbs are running brights now all the time. when i kick the "brights" on, the lights actually get darker with all 4 on before i start getting the issues. This has me thinking that the switch is goofed in some way. I did order a relay kit as they were on sale, but would like to get this figured out still.

Isn't it pace performance that sells these? Maybe if we approached them saying we have 10+ guys from our forum wanting to make a big purchase, they could get us let's say 15% off so they are still making some money. Sure hate to see you do all this work for no long term business unless you want to make some side money.

no notable clicking noise. the headlight kit isnt anything special or high powered. the problem started with the old bulbs so its not the new set. the headlight and dimmer switches are all new.

last month my alternator and voltage regulator went bad so replaced both. few weeks later i was driving down the road at night since the new parts were installed and switched to the high beams. got the flicker then the lights died but low beams worked fine. asked on the forums and everyone said it was a switch. yesterday i put in a new switch and new scott drake halogen bulbs. tonight while driving, got the flicker then lost all lights. so whats going on all of a sudden? is it the voltage reg maybe throwing issues? one thing that does have me curious is when i swapped out the motors the PO didnt have a ground wire attached to the back of the Alt. So i never hooked it up either. when i did the alt swap, we put it on. would this be a possible issue?

finally got the cam info from Mikestang and want to see what the pros think of this cam. Here is the info he sent me: Okay here are the numbers on the cam and the info I could find. Its a Crane Powermax 2020 Camshaft # 449359 Apparently its built for 85-95 302 H.O Blocks and has the 351W firing order BUT that Part number doesn't match with anything in the Crane Cam book but the 2020 is their grind for this application and with a few other numbers on the shaft I narrowed it down to the 5.0 HO motor with 351W firing order. Heres whats on the cam face Powermax 2020 CR 449359 44-13-04 The Powermax 2020 is a Hyd Roller cam for the 5.0 slightly larger than stock Not sure what the CR is all about their book said nothing of it the 449359 is SUPOSED to the the part number 44-13-04 has a few break downs. The 44 is the number they use to call out the 85-95 5.0L with 351W firing order and the 13 is a mystery to me and the 04 is the year of manufacture LOL. From what I can tell the specs are 198/208@50 Duration, .445/.470 Lift with a 112LSA But the part number of 449359 would indicate the specs may be higher on it because the cams listed with the 449 prefix are ALL larger than the specs I listed. MAy have to call Crane to get a cam card, but it definitely is a hyd Roller for a 302 with factory Roller cam and with a duration falling between 198 and 220 / 208 and 230 @ 50 with .445 to upwards of 525 lift LOL.... Seems like its a step or 2 above stock without being 2 radical. So will this work with the stock heads?

i was looking at the efi sender units and it got me thinking: if the fi sending unit is putting gas back in at the bottom of the tank, there should be no reason why using the drain plug would be a problem. i was also watching videos on Holley's install and saw that their lines, both there and back, were the nylon braided ones.

a while back when i talked to Fitech about the return lines they gave a few options. 1: new tank. 2: run your return line into the filler nozzle 3: return line into drain plug if your tank has one. my question is, how much fuel actually goes through the return line? i would think that going through the drain plug would create a lot of gravity pressure for our pumps to compete with.

count me in then! i would suggest maybe getting onto the VMF forum if we're under 10 people.

So it would take 10 or more for us to get the 20%?

So have we heard anything else about the discount or is it still 10%?

i found this relay set up that turns each fan on 10 seconds apart. i don't have AC and no fancy lights so i couldnt imagine the 65 amp not being able to handle it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Davies-Craig-0444-Digital-Radiator-Fans-Controller-Adjustable-Temperature-Range-/331368327733

im seriously considering it. the only think that im worried about is if my new alternator i just bought can handle it. i think i went to the 65 amp one even though i don't have AC. ive been following a thread on VMF where a guy put one on his 69 vert.

im pretty sure it does. if i remember right, they said they did when i called them