MustangBobby

I FINALLY FOUND IT!!!! Like I said, everything was blurring together. It was on the Roadster Shop website. If you care to see a few pics of widening a quarter panel, here you go. http://roadstershop.com/galleries/jeffs-1969-mustang/

By all means, if that's the look you like, go for it. These are just our opinions.

I agree with Maxum. That look spretty cheap. I would recommend looking at the JME site. They offer wood grain, black and brushed aluminum with any Autometer gauge. They are more expensive, but they have a factory look and all of the gauges are larger. http://jmeenterprises.com/69dash.shtml

Well, we were lucky enough to have the kids spend a long weekend with my brother and his family, so, along with a few other projects, I got some uninterrupted time to work on the Mustang. After finally getting the opening to the correct dimensions, I made a frame out of 3/16 X 1 1/2 to bring back some strength to the shock tower area, and attached it to the remaining upper piece of the shock tower. The Roadster Shop sells shock tower panels with their logo on it to fit the opening, but they are just bolt in, and I didn't think it was enough support. I talked with them and they could put my logo on a set, so I ordered them. I welded the backing panel on to the backside of the fender apron onto my new frame work and will leave the beauty panel as a bolt on. I like how it now has depth with the backing panel on the backside of the fender aprons. Thanks for looking.

I have an aftermarket spoiler from Mustangs Unlimited, and it fits fine. I had to drill holes, as mine wasn't a factory spoiler car. Your trunk lid is fine, it will just need some repair work. Like most guesses so far, I would say you have the wing of a 71-73 and the 69/70 pedestals. Without a shot of the spoiler itself, it may be a complete 71-73 spoiler. How tall are the pedestals? 69/70 are taller than 71-73. I would just order a new spoiler, drill your holes, and weld up the wrong ones. Good luck.

We all have our own opinions here. I believe that the value of a car is only important if you plan to sell it. If this is your dream car, and don't ever think you will sell it, build it how you like it. Or restore it correctly, sell it, and buy a less optioned car and build that one the way you want. Enjoy.

I see you are in Portland. Have you thought about taking it to American Metal Cleaning instead of media blasting? I guess it depends on how far you go with the tear down. It is pricey, but well worth the money. Looks like a great start.

I personally like the 24 1/2. But it's not our car. It's your car, and it needs to be where you like it. I think up an inch in the front, and down an inch in the back would look great. Good luck.

I think the fact that you took measurements, and it was at 40 inches, shows that the towers have not leaned in, and you shouldn't really need one. I would definitely do the one piece export brace. Personally, I am all for chassis stiffening, and see sub frame connectors and extra bracing as a needed upgrade and wouldn't think twice about the value over the added improvement. But that's jus me. Good luck with your decision.

If you haven't done it yet, make sure to put a chain through the top of the shock tower through the spring and around the frame, then when it pops, it can't fly anywhere. I just did this with my Camaro, and I was very thankful that I did. The spring compressor slipped off, smashed my finger, and then just dangled by the chain. It's amazing how fast you get vertical from the floor when there is a loud crash by your face.

I'm not sure what I want to see, either. Just curious how much quarter lip massaging you had to do along with the bump stop bracket. Is it a stock rear end? 315 is my ideal tire width. I have always heard the widest you could go without a mini tub was 295, so this has me very excited. How much room is left between the tire and quarter, and the inner wheel house? Thanks.

Do you have any pics of the wheel well without the tire on? Did you have to remove the bump stop? At least the outer tab of it?

Check out Ford Powertrain. If you're not sure if there is something that will work, give them a call. http://fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm

If you glue it, just make sure you mount the door and align it before the glue sets. I would recommend the slow glue.

Now that it has been a couple of years, have any interior plans changed?

I would check out Ford Powertrain. http://fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/Mustang1.htm

That must be nice. I'm on the east side of the state, and it's $3.63.

I am assuming you are referring to the chin spoiler. One of the best cosmetic add ons you can do in my opinion. http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/1969-mustang-front-spoiler

For those of you that have not yet heard of them, Ford Powertrain Applications, is a great place for headers. They are excellent quality, and have excellent customer service. They are in the Seattle area. My brother used them for his 70 Cougar Eliminator, 351w with AFR heads, ps and 4 speed. He was guaranteed that they would fit, and if they didn't, he would come down and make them fit himself. My cousin has also used them with his 65 Coupe with a 289 ps and 4 speed. They were guaranteed to fit, and they did. After several years, they both have had zero issues. Just thought I would share. Hopefully this can help some body out. http://fordpowertrain.com/FPAindex/headers2.htm

I went with an IFS myself, but it took me a long time do decide between that and a Total Control coil over conversion. Here is one type of notching kit. http://gatewayperformancesuspension.com/gps_shock_tower_notching_kit.aspx

I like it because it has the two 5 inch gauges and then the other four are 2 5/8, as opposed to the one from Year One which is 2 1/16. But it is pricey.

I have thought about just taking the wheel well up to the frame rail, and not messing with the frame. That would be an extra 1.5 inches which is right around 38mm, which would be plenty of room for 315's. Then I just have to relocate the seat belt mounting hole/plate, because I want to keep the rear seat, but by the time this car is done, my 8 and 6 year olds will be in college. Or I could just be happy with 295's and not mess with a thing. I think tire sizes are getting lost these days. 295 is a GOOD chunk of rubber, but seems like nothing compared to the 335/345 craze. All I know is I have plenty of time to figure it out. I'm still searching for that thread.

I know you said the cheaper the better, but here is what I plan on getting. http://jmeenterprises.com/69dash.shtml

I would love to see pics of your duct work when you get around to it. Looks good.

I think Raven means they were taken off of a 69/70 in '73.