MustangBobby

Why did you move the door handle down?

Are the valance holes lights or brake ducts?

I'm guessing you got the SU4985. Did you also get the sheet that gives the different products and mixing ratio's for it for desired sheen?

I seem to be in the minority here, but if this is your favorite car and don't plan to sell it, paint it what will make you the happiest. It's a bummer walking into the garage after your car is done, and wishing you had painted it the color you really wanted, but didn't because of "value." Value only has meaning for resale. If you plan on enjoying it for a while, and then selling it, I would tend to go towards stock. But there is also a reason it is called "re-sale red." Certain colors will always be more desirable than others no matter how original. I would put money on the fact that two identically optioned cars, a red one, and a pastel gray one, the red one would sell first the vast majority of time. I'm not saying pastel gray is a bad color. It would look good, but you need to be happy with the car. You will get a lot of opinions on here, but you only need to worry about your own. That's my opinion. Enjoy, and good luck.

When I had my car dipped, I noticed that the dippers pried apart any seam that had a suspicious spot. I was very impressed that they took those kinds of measures to ensure the cleanest job possible. I had a rust hole that had been pried open at the bottom of the windshield on both sides where the dash and cowl all overlap. I thought about just welding up the hole since it had been pried apart and dipped, I assumed the rust was gone. Good thing I dug into it. After cutting it open, there was still a pretty good layer of crusty rust in the top of the seam. All fixed now. Just need to lather, rinse and repeat on the other side now.

It looks miniature.

You just can't go wrong with the oval Cobra air cleaner. Looks nice.

No help to the thread, but that last picture looks badass.

I was staring at the pics you posted, and I thought it was a smart idea running the bed liner all of the way to the bottom of the rocker. We usually just run it to the pinch weld, but it made me think how bad the bottom of the rockers get road blasted. I'll have to start doing that. Thanks.

Here is a venting option. http://anvilauto.com/products/camaro-67-69/hood-vents.html

Yeah, sometimes it's just hard not to let it get to you. The "I'm never going to get this done" blues. Thankfully my kids are getting a little older, which makes things a little easier. Now they have started harping on me to get it done. Small victories.

Got the rest of my floor in. That gives me a grand total of about 7 hours on the car this year. Ugh.

I completely understand the "don't do it" argument, but if you don't plan on selling the car, then the value of it or any part on it doesn't matter. You need to make it the car you want. My brother has a 70 Cougar Eliminator, one of 2200, and it has weld on sub frame connectors, the weld on Boss 302 shock tower supports, a built Windsor, and it's painted Viper Blue. He is never going to sell the car, and has made it a car he is happy with. We have tossed the idea of making a functional hood scoop several times. If you do choose to do it, just try to make it a very clean job. That's my 2 cents.

Looks great. That was a lot of orange. It needed something to set it off. Is that air box installed yet? Need pics of that, when it's done. Looks awesome.

Man it's good to see your signature back. I missed that. You too, of course.

It's nice to finally find someone close by. Anyway, nice project. Mine was also originally Silver Jade. Keep the pictures coming.

I remember reading an article with Larry Shinoda, the designer of the Boss Mustangs, and it mentioned that when the rear spoiler had a 13 degree tilt, it provided very effective down force.

I noticed your pile of extra parts has the correct B pillar without the slot for the quarter window. Are you going to weld up the opening on the existing piece, or replace it after the quarter is on? Nice work. They did this on an episode of Horsepower TV a while back. It is very interesting to watch. Thanks for taking the time to keep us all informed.

Ridge, are you referring to the new Industrial line that you have already had problems with, or the Chinese crap?

Well, I just got back from my first time at SEMA, and Craftsman had a booth. I talked with one of the guys, and they have an "Industrial" line of tools now, that are made in the USA again. They also said the screwdrivers are still American made. Then they tried to explain to me that the standard Craftsman stuff is just as quality made as before, but I shut him down, and didn't want to hear anything about the chinese tools. Just wanted to let you know that if you find the Industrial line, it is once again American made Craftsman.

Let's see if I can explain. Keeping the end of my tape in the curve of the quarter, the forward stud was 5 inches up. The rear stud was 4 7/8 up. The quarter panel curves up. They are 1 13/16 apart, and holding my tape level to the world, about four inches from the front of the drip rail. I don't have the trim on my car. Thankfully it doesn't have to be exact. I'm sure other cars measure differently than mine. Hope that is understandable.

Of coarse we do.

Sounds like a good decision. Keep the updates coming.

Welcome to the forum. I am a painter by trade, so corrosion protection is my top concern. As for my build, any fab work that has overlapping joints, get's a generous coating of weld through primer. People complain it makes your welds uglier, and I agree, but that doesn't matter after everything is ground down anyway, and the protection is well worth it. I don't understand people that don't do it. After I get finished, all the bare metal will get another acid wash and a conversion coating, and then another coat of PPG DP epoxy primer.

Got the toe board in yesterday. Got it all ground and ready for the floor panel.