indianfiremach

Spent some time at the painters, car is looking better every time. Makes me feel like my garage won't always look like a '70 Mach 1 exploded in there. Holes for the spoiler and inserts for the louvers installed:

All i can say is I wish the underside of the '66 convertible I picked up looked as good as the top! The front and rear frame rails are in great shape, but the center of the car (rockers, torque boxes, floor) has typical northern rust which means there's basically nothing there anymore.

Thanks for the comments. That is my friend's shop where the work is being done. The car off to the side is a customer's rough '65 fastback that's being turned into a Shelby clone. However, I did just pick up a '66 convertible from a co-worker as my next project. Same family 30+ years. Was not looking for another one (at least to keep), but I couldn't pass this car up.

Update - car actually looks like a car again! After all of the challenges this car has presented to myself, my body guys, and my pocketbook, I'm very pleased to see it come this far. Can't wait for the next steps. The car will have the rest of its bodywork and fitment done in the garage and then taken to a professional paintbooth for final paint.

I'll take it and will Pm you my email address and you can send me yours. Thanks, Jason

I'll take it and will Pm you my email address and you can send me yours. Thanks, Jason

For a driver quality restoration, just fill your cracks with JB-weld, allow a few days to dry, and then sand JB weld down. Then use a good filler primer and black paint. Clear over top, wheel should look good for a driver-level car or occasional show car.

Installing full dynacorn rear quarters- I'm hoping for a Grabber Orange Christmas!

I've had two '69 390 Mach 1's in the last few years. I think the present condition comes into play - are you cutting up a cherry original? Saving a car that almost didn't make it? I think you can take a lot of liberties with a car that owes you it's continued existence.

Good eye, that's right. It's a solid piece. I have it on eBay now, no reserve $0.99 starting bid.

List updated to remove parts that have sold. I have many of these on eBay now under my handle Mustangmach390. Most are no reserve and $0.99 starting bids.

Progress! Engine bay before and after. The front end of this car was a total mess. Makes a figure eight look like a straight line... Anyway, a LOT has been replaced and straightened and it's all within spec now. Caution, these photos are graphic in nature! After: I can't wait to see it painted black and the rebuilt 351c / shaker sitting in there.

Hi all, I'm thinning out my collection of 1969/ 1970 Mustang Parts, mostly Mach 1 parts. I sold my '69 428CJ project and am going to start selling off some of the extra pieces I've collected. Parts are priced plus shipping from Charlotte, NC. Local pickup is welcome. I will continue to add parts as I take pictures of them, I have many other parts including consoles, 9" rear complete from a 1970 Mach 1, etc. PM me for my email address or post here. 1969 / 1970 Clutch Pedal Assembly. Needs blasted/painted but in good useable shape with no excess wear. $150 1969 Mustang Brake Pedal, Power Disc / 4 Speed. None nicer. SOLD 1969 / 1970 Fold Down Seat. Good restorable set. SOLD 1969 4 Speed Shifter Rare! 100% complete and undamaged. New Scott Drake boot. $400 1965+ Mustang 4 Speed Spacer Plate. Good solid part. $40 1969 / 1970 Intermittent Wiper Control Box. Super hard to find, nice shape. Switch is widely available NOS. Not so with the box. $SOLD 1969 / 1970 Mustang "Look-a-Like" AM / 8 Track. Great cosmetic condition, no cut wires. Same chassis as 1969/1970 AM 8 track, stems for knobs are a touch longer. $SOLD 1970 Mustang Rimblow Wheel. Needs resto, some cracks on the back and one wanting to come through the top. Good restorable wheel. $100 1970 Mustang Rimblow pad, nice original. Aluminum inserts are new ($60+). No splits, nice looking pad. $SOLD 1970 Mustang Mach 1 Hood Pins. Core to Rechrome, have retaining plates as shown. $SOLD 1969 Brand new perfect pop open gas cap w/emblem. Price what NPD wants for this and then race to send me $80 before someone else does. $SOLD

Nice parking brake - better than what I started with for my car. I PM'd you with my details and phone #.

I have an extra one in excellent condition, $40 and it's yours. Complete assembly with handle, original paint.

I have a black 1970 wheel with no cracks in the rim, a few on the backside. Needs resto, $100. Also have a nice black center pad with new insets (super expensive!!) and nice original foam / vinyl. $125. Can send photos, prices plus shipping from 28202 which would probably be only ~$15.

Payment sent on steering box.

Did you get the one that's felt-backed? I think that's the economy version. A car I bought came with that and after a month I tossed it. It wouldn't lay flat and I thought the felt part collected dirt pretty easily.

I am going to get the Burtex one from Harris Mustang this week or next with my wholesale account. I will look up the price of the '69 version and would be happy to email you the info, or PM me your phone number. There is a cheaper rubber backed version as well. It is high quality just not concourse correct.

No cruise available in 1970, ford stopped offering it as an RPO after 1969. That box is for the Distributor Modulator system. Copied and pasted from Don Rush's website: The purpose of the distributor modulator system was to help reduce carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons. Distributor modulator system was standard equipment on some 1970 Ford Mercury Lincoln vehicles. We see it only on the 1970 Mercury Cougar and Ford Mustangs with the M code 351-4V Cleveland engine and FMX automatic transmission. The purpose of the distributor modulator system was to help reduce carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons. Sometimes it is referred to as the Dist-o-vac system. The basic premise of the system was to use carburetor venturi vacuum to reduce engine emissions. This was performed by controlling distributor spark advance. A retarded spark provides hotter combustion chamber and exhaust manifold temperatures that cause more complete burning of the fuel. The three main components are the Electronic Control Module, Speed Sensor, and Thermal Switch. Electronic Control Module is the black box which houses the PC board and solenoid valve. Ford part D0AF-9E718-S, in the manual it is described as having a black box and a blue cover, we also see them with black covers on the black box. *Side note – There is also a white colored box along with black, blue, and white covers. This combination of boxes and lids make for 6 differently identified units for a range of other applications. Speed Sensor this actually is often confused with a cruise control part. It mounts inline on a two piece speedometer cable, it also has a two wire plug coming out of it. Ford part number D0AF-9E731-A. Thermal Switch this measures temperatures and only engages the modulator system on, at temperatures above 58°F. Ford part number D0AF—12A164-B. For a 1970 Mercury Cougar or Ford Mustang the black module box will 'cut in' at speeds of approximately 23 mph and 'cut out' when speeds fall below 18 mph, provided that ambient temperatures are about 58°F.

Looks like a truck / passenger car motor to me with the plain 390 heads. That's a giant paperweight.

Dash pad has been replaced with a new Ford tooling one. Can't wait for the car to get back so I can get these parts back on it. May be in October/November timeframe. I'll consider myself lucky if it gets back before Christmas. The marti report / color / options are definitely what drew me to this car. Had to be something, because with the shape the body was in on this car, it just about met the crusher. The new seats look great and are pretty close to the original - I will say for now they are a little hard. I've sat in the seats with the bolsters and they're nice (just as hard) and I was tempted to get those. But this car, outside of the transmission and rear end, will be original down to the hubcaps - at least until I change my mind and put magnums on. Uh , it feels so long ago that I was scraping away that foam insulation.. Bad memories... But underneath it was surprisingly solid outside of some quarter sized holes in the outer wheelhouses. Since I'm doing full quarters though, they will be replaced anyway. Sometimes I feel like I'm building up a dynacorn shell, but I'm glad I'm able to retain as much of the original car as possible, while still having a car that's free of rust and straight.

You don't have to mod the trans tunnel for a T5, just for the TKO. That said, you will be lucky if you make it out of the driveway with that T5 behind a 390 big block. You really need to go TKO for the FE. The hp / tq ratings for any T5 (z spec, cobra, world class) are nowhere near the levels (particularly torque) that your 390 will put out.

The new one-piece floor is in. Car is on its way back from near-oblivion. Note to self, do not buy a car from Michigan, no matter how long the Marti report is!

Looks great. I heat mine in the oven (10 mins~) and then scrape and apply aircraft remover for the stubborn glue. I also pre-cut some small holes under the emblem area so you can push the trapped air out. It's all under the emblem which has holes for the studs anyway.