Patriotgamez

http://www.andrewsmach1.com/pages/mustangresto/doorhinges/doorhingerepair.html A pretty good guide to self repair, I would personally stop short of welding a hole that wasn't true and opt for a good used hinge.

If your hinge is true and shows little sign of wear, a new pin (especially the top one) is a cheap fix and will usually fix a sagging door.

If you like flames...check this out

I'm digg'n your VW bus! Is it a 21 or 23 window?

I think most of the TBI systems mount on a square bore. I have the Atomic from MSD. I like how the system can manage the fuel, air spark with the addition of an ignition box.

Kind of an illusion...here is mine at 45 degree

That doesn't look like a 45 degree angle? Is it mounted flush/flat to the top of the frame rail?

Quote from Keith Craft "There are several ways to build a 427C.I. stroker 351W engine. Will you use a stock block or aftermarket block. If you use stock block you have to use a 4.187 stroke with a 4.030 bore, with the aftermarket block you can go 4.125 stroke and a 4.000 stroke. The larger bore and the 4.000 stroke works great. We have built these with 10.75 compression that run on pump gas and make over 600HP with 575 to 600ft/bls torque. The main thing is how much do you want to spend. The stock block way I recommend a 408 or 410 or a 418 which has a 4.100 stroke. We just finished a 4.100 stroke 4.30 bore 351W for a customer that made 600HP and 575ft/bls torque. this engine was done with a __af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html"]Ford Racing sportsman block, hydralic roller and will run on pump gas. This engine ran about 11,500.00 of the dyno. We do 408/410 stroker that make 525HP and 550ft/bls torque for about 5500.00. These 351W are the best buy going for performance for the dollar. Oh they will aslo turn 8000rpm's with a solid roller if that is what a guy wants. The pin does not go into the oil ring on any of these combinations and oil usage is not a problem. We have been doing these for over 10 years with great succes. Good luck, Keith Craft"

Why chose when you can have both! Cleavor!

If you go in any farther then that, I would recommend trimming the flange on the rubber bump stop that is facing the wheel well

If your considering Modern Driveline for the tranny they also make (in my opinion) the best Hydraulic Clutch system (TO Bearing style especially) to retrofit this Generation Mustang. A couple screws to mount the bracket to the firewall and actuator goes out the existing hole where the factory clutch linkage would normally go. Pricey, but will alleviate most of your fitment issues.

The video was a comparison of dual plane and single plane intakes, but when they tested the dual plane intakes (multiple models) they determined that milling the divider in the dual plane and/or adding a spacer resulted in better bottom end torque numbers. The test was on a SBC but I assume doing the same to a SBF would yield similar results... So milling my RPM Air Gap Intake for my 351W would make my very hungry cam happy but I would rather get some feedback...especially if somebody has already done this. Like I said before, I don't have the room to add a spacer and want to get the best numbers that I can for my combination. Not sure why the 302 intake came milled from the factory and the 351W did not? Must be a pretty good reason and is why I am hesitant to carve up a $475 piece of aluminum

FORDREVHEAD has them for $30 shipped (depending on your location) send him a PM.

Has anyone milled the divider plenum on their 351W RPM air gap intake like the factory did on the RPM airgap Intake for the 302? yeah...I saw the carjunkie video and that is what prompted this inquiry (even though their test was on a 302) I know adding a square bore spacer would essentially allow crossflow between the plenums, but I don't have the clearance for that.

PM sent

Dizzy sold. open to offers on anything still listed prior to going to ebay

Heads, Intake and third member sold, everything else is going to ebay in a week. Starting........now

I was also considering the delete of the cowl vent...still thinking about how to reintegrate the windshield washer? Surface mount like the late gen Mustangs or incorporate into the wiper arm...

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It's hard to tell in the pics...but did you have to move or modify the driver's side tie-down to sneak the exhaust by?

Has anyone ever seen this installed? I assume it installs vertically? I have mixed feeling about this, but since nothing under my hood is stock and there is no room for a traditional reservoir I may consider it...or just go without washer fluid http://www.karmustang.com/product.php?productid=16537&cat=274&page=2

MSD Digital 6A Ignition Controller 6201 Brand new in sealed box $145 +ship http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-6201/overview/

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Will the shifter and linkage work with a traditional 4 speed Toploader or is it specific to this tranny? It had a Hurst T-handle on it from PO

19 3/4"H X 25 1/4"W used Griffin aluminum radiator, very minor fin damage. No leaks, flows well and includes upper and lower hose for 351W $75