Patriotgamez

Did the 70 vert have seat risers that tied together over the tranny hump?

That looks like one of those explosionproof bell housings, you will void the certification on it if you modify it. Consider dimpling the primary. If your not gonna race or don't care about bellhousing integrity then do whatever.

That's about how far apart I spaced my holes when I did the floor... which is better then what the factory did. You look at a lot of the other builds and they have twice that many! Is it over cautious? added strength/rigidity? or the notion that the next poor bastard to replace the floor will lose his mind drilling out welds?

A new perspective on loong tube headers

Nice job Grampa, your son now has a mobile panty dropper. My first 10 cars were less then $300...seriously affected my SWAG as a teen.

I gotta get some flush tail lights...are those dark or light smoke?

Great idea, I cant tell but are all the metal pieces grounded...with wire? or just the middle piece?

Yup, I had to modify the firewall just like RPM shows...swapping pedals is a chore. Might as well do the bushings or better yet switch to roller bearing when changing out pedal

Are you swapping the camshaft before installing the motor?

OMG just saw price of GV...what is the advantage of going GV vs. a built OD tranny?

Gear Vendors is gonna be able to handle the power in this?

It's true men are visual creatures...and this is top notch car porn. Can't wait to see/hear this sexy beast launch!

JK...just trolled your Youtube channel to see your a laser tech geek. On the other hand a modern MADMAX Stang would definitely have lasers.

Where are the lasers? are they in the hood scoop?

Driver has a mullet...betcha

Has anyone used these yet? Other then adding a resistor it seems like a good choice. http://www.amazon.com/JLC-Filament-PLASMA-Light-Bulbs/dp/B00ATGP0JQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1418517312&sr=1-1&keywords=1157+plasma+led+lights#customerReviews There is a pretty good comparison of Plasma LED vs LED vs Incandescent on the WCC site.

Why don't more technical threads have this kind of banter...wait...this is a technical thread right? :batman:

Granted it was wet, but I'm sure ginger was texting his buddies about the awesome sausage fest they were planning that night...when all of the sudden the center divider crept up under Mom's wagon and left it in its current condition.

Me being sarcastic... http://lmgtfy.com/?q=images+of+1969+mustang+coupe+with+side+scoops

Remove the antenna and patch the hole, nobody listens to the radio anymore:wheelchair:

Yeah it's probably a BOP axle ...

What appears to be a ford 9" separates on launch. Assume there was a drive shaft loop or the third member (what was left of it) would have beat the snot out of the bottom of this car.

I have a D4 Block with a forged Eagle crank, no clearance required.

7900-184 is the part# for the BB brackets, I had to buy them...they're not cheap $229. Also need a .90 inch spacer for the drivers side bracket which is not replaceable, they want $60 for that...made my own. Like I said, your intermediate shaft will lower as the rack lowers so check clearances and shaft length.

You could also use the big block mounting brackets for the TCP R&P, it will clear pan easily. But it will change the geometry of your intermediate steering shaft which may cause issues with headers or your Zbar if you have one.