buening

I made mine with an air cutoff tool, abrasive chop saw, and a drill, and it took quite awhile and had less than perfect edges. I wasn't being picky during fabrication though, so that may have been part of it. A band saw will make things go quicker but the slotted holes would still need a cutoff tool or angle grinder with cutoff disc. For me its not about time = money, its about honing my skills and spending time in the garage. It also took me three times as long in total since I had to recreate the wheel (measurements and CAD/PDF drawings) I now own a Powermatic 143 bandsaw and Evolution Rage 2 chop saw, so metalworking goes a bit faster now :)

Thanks! Of all the pictures I have collected, none had the rear interior removed. I noticed the holes in the brackets are in the center on that pic, whereas mine are in an upper corner. If the fiberglass quarter trim ends up being off, I may position it and redrill holes in those brackets so it all fits up nicely. I kind of wonder if that wasn't what the factory did anyways.

Yeah if I push the trim towards the sail panel, the gasket is in the way. Not by a little, but by a lot thus why I wondered if it tucked between the gasket and the sail panel. The brackets could indeed be installed upside down. Anything is possible with this PO. Anyone have any pics of the backseat area with these clips exposed so I could compare? Not sure, guess its possible! It'd have to be a pretty thin gasket for as much as this thing interferes. I still need to get out there with my fiberglass panels to see how they fit. Cold, snow, work, and kids have prevented this from happening. Thanks for the ideas guys! I might also pull the part numbers from these hockey trim pieces and make sure they are correct for my application.

One could smoke the lens if LED strip is used, which would hide the colored or clear lens in the black spoiler. The fiber optic effect may have pretty limited brightness, might be something you test out in a black-painted 2x4 or something easy to construct.

Something like this but on a 70 spoiler? I think with the right execution it could look nice. On a stock car, probably not but on a car with modern touches I think it would work pretty well. The toughest part would be getting the wiring slot drilled over to the pedestals and then down through the pedestals....assuming you wanted the wiring hidden. Not sure how that would work with the pedestal hinges either.

Was that painted black? I recall them being white.

Not sure what is going on then. I don't think the mounting brackets adjust and all holes match up, its just the end seems too long. Its probably 1/2" too long :( Guess I will get out the fiberglass panels and see how the screw holes line up with the hockey trim installed. I hate to trim an OEM piece down but its all I can think of right now. Thoughts?

That is the harness clip. You need the whole switch, and look to see if the clip has two or three pins. I seem to recall the tilt switch being different than the door ajar switches

Anyone? Fold down rear seat setups have the same trim. If anyone could look at their car and let me know that would be awesome

Hey all, I got the rear glass installed finally and am reassembling the back interior. I have the package tray and sail panels installed and am trying to install the hockey trim. I'm using original hockey trim pieces (my car came with vinyl wrapped pieces of cardboard) and it just doesn't seem to be lining up. Its as if the end that curves up is too long, so I'm wondering if the hockey trim needs tucked between the sail panel and the window gasket? Pics are attached, but is kind of a hard area to get a good angle to show what I mean. In the first picture you can see a scuff mark on the weatherstripping where the hockey trim touched it when I was fitting it up. I have the front two screws installed by the way.

4" razor scraper blade in vice grips gets my suggestion. Tap it in with a hammer, and then use muscle or tap it with a hammer around the perimeter to cut through the gasket/sealer. You can get a scraper blade from Lowes or Menards pretty cheap, and they are thicker than your typical razor blades. Similar to a putty knife thickness, but with a razor edge to help cut through that crap. I've used it before on separating glass and plexiglass bonded around the perimeter with clear caulk. Using the putty knife makes it too easy to try prying the pan off, which only bends the flanges and makes sealing it back up a nightmare.

My guess is you have the Sears aftermarket cruise control kit installed on your car. If you need a new bellows due to the broken chain, you can get a new kit (appears to be missing turn signal stalk) here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Sears-Cruise-Control-Speed-Control-Kit-Missing-Control-Box-/281252469696?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417bf41bc0&vxp=mtr They pop up on Ebay every once in awhile. These were pretty common and popular back in the day. I think Dana made them for Sears. Below are a few more pictures of the original kit:

It appears aftermarket to me based on the bellows and the turn signal stalk. Do you have a servo on the passenger side of the engine bay like shown below?

Correction, I used wood blocks at the end. See attached. Now that I own a welder, it would have welded plates because the allthread wanted to spin (thus the two vice grips holding the all thread. It was a two handed operation, but with welded plates it becomes one-handed. BTW it started to bend in the picture because I reached the point where it wouldn't move any more because the motor mounts were restricting more movement. With adjustable motor mounts, I loosened them up and got it to spread to the correct width without any bending of the allthread.

I've used two sections of all-thread with a coupler nut in the middle. You can use anything from wood or steel plate at the end, you just have to make sure it doesn't slide due to the curve of the towers. When I pushed mine out it was for a monte carlo bar, and I had the shock tower caps removed and the shock top pushed down so that I could use the back edge of the shock tower hole for the brace of my steel plate that was welded to the all-thread.

Nice work! I was emailed a jpeg (see attached reduced file, I have the larger version that can't be uploaded due to size) from someone who did something similar from their 70 mach wiring harnesses. They added helpful notes like connector colors and colored the lines to match the wire colors. Might be something to consider if you do the 69 diagram

Smart thinking on stealing the fox brackets! Car is coming along nicely!!!

You can get the SN95 Hydroboosts fairly cheap. You will have to make an angled bracket for the firewall IIRC. http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-04-01-03-Mustang-Cobra-Brake-Booster-Hydraboost-Hydroboost-Master-Cylinder-/370983320381?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5660543b3d&vxp=mtr

Flange may have been a poor choice of words. The point which the wheelhouse overhang/lip meets the rear floorboards. Mine rubs at this point. It appears you cut this portion and moved it inwards.

I don't think pie cutting will solve all the issues, as you are still restricted by the location of the welded flange. Here is a pic of mine before and after the BFH in the front lower inner wheelhouse. My immense amount of clearance to the leaf springs My wheels are 17x10.5 Bullitts from American Muscle with 6.8" backspace and 1/2" wheel spacer (net 6.3" backspace) with Sumitomo HTR Z 315/35/17. My car is not exactly lowered to the point where I want it (see below), but I do have rubbing in that same location shown above when going around a curve.

:lol: Yeah they can be a bit harsh if its a newb question. If it is in regards to bracing, they may be a bit more lenient.

Mike, you may want to install the instrument cluster and clock panel to make sure it clears that bar. I'm not sure what your plans are for them, but it looks like the gauges may be in the way of that bar.

I'm not aware of any from the vendors. The picture I used was from an older Ebay auction, and they pop up every once in awhile on there. I simply used my original as a template and drilled holes in the aftermarket one. I believe there are indeed cutouts in the stainless weatherstrip retainer. BTW the rubber coating on the NPD ones that I installed has already separated at the tip after less than a year from being installed. I will be trying the plastidip idea to see how long it lasts. I may end up with the same issue but will try numerous coats.

Good info Buckeye. I don't have the manuals so I wasn't sure. Another tip on these, if the originals have the coating missing like in the pic above and you are concerned with originality you can dip the originals in Plastidip (after derusting it). The originals had a more glossy rubber coating, but Plastidip finish is fairly close and you retain the original shape/contours of the guides.

I recalled a bookmark I had to an article on the roof rail w/s, and noticed in the pictures they also show a guide towards the rear of the window, in which my car has neither. Guess I have some investigating to do! Its possible the PO took the rear one and mounted it towards at the front. Hopefully others can shed more light on this. The pic below shows the guide just in front of the taper of the window. My car has one on the outside as well further down....it may be where his arm is blocking. Not a detail I've looked at in awhile on my car. It also shows the up close pic of the original guide at the rear of the window. Notice how it is fully rounded and not flat at the end like I mentioned? http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0911_how_to_restore_weatherstrip/