rwcstang

Couple of questions for you: What size diameters of those headers are those in the picture? 1 5/8 or 1 3/4? if you do not know the brand, get metal brush or something to scrub the flanges there may be a part number stamped on this will help you id in Summit or google if its ment for your application. Maybe not a requirement, but what are you current mods with the engine? from the looks of those pictures, it may be 1 5/8 header (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969) maybe 1 3/4? 1 5/8 will fit like a glove on my 393w, you can also try http://www.fordpowertrain.com/fpaindex/headers2.htm roughly 1k+ but there is a delay and he is working on a backlog of orders. Almost all owners on here use FPA or some other brand headman, JBA and Hooker headers. I use the original steering but there are some owners with unisteer that can help with your issue.

Thanks Ed, this is exactly what Im looking for! however the price is too high for some piece of metal, as ebay sells it for cheaper. Currently my driver side trim panel decided to crack and split in the middle, I was thinking of stripping it and fixing the crack with some JB Weld before it becomes two pieces.

Has anyone purchased these repop upper trim panels? Looks like NPD link doesn't sell them, CJ sells only the passenger side but no reviews, trying to stay away from CJPP. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292825604336?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

FYI to anyone debating a SOT CoilOver kit: SOT will be doing a price increase after their current stock is done. So best to pull the trigger now!

One thing I've noticed about the repops: the mounting screw holes are not positioned correctly for the molding to sit flush against the body. I've seen ppl re-drilling a new hole or removing material in the existing hole to make it sit flush. Even when flush, The repops tends to expand the window rail molding. I know a dremel tool can fix that and remove some material, only thing is I need to figure out how much material I need to remove. These molds are its not a major issue for me so I can live with it, but visually, it get be made to fit nicely with out any mods.

I believe you can, but its a matter of modifying the hydraulic line/couplers. I believe TCP sells two versions, one to retain your PS pump and the other is their aftermarket pump.

yes, I have a tko600, I originally had this installed in my old c4. when I converted to a manual it was an easy swap as I had a 157 flywheel.

Never used it, but something similiar, I have is" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-5055 also bought a starter heater wrap since I run long tube headers, never had an issue.

well good news from my engine builder, He was able to source a set of AFR 205s. so thats something off the waiting list of parts Im waiting for.

I have Street or Tracks front Coilover setup with stock power steering/spindles. Easy install, fun to drive! never went with a Rack and Pinion, because of Header selection, I Think TCP would be top tier kit to go with, other rack n pinion kits have mixed reviews.

yeah, I don't care much for the material, just as long as it doesn't crumble or melt under the sun, but if 3d model was dipped in chrome, I don't think it would be an issue.

thanks for the link, going to work with my Machine shop to confirm what CC heads they need.

exactly what Im dealing with now. would be great if I learned how to use CAD/3D print which I would make my own set. Im surprised Daniel Carpenter is not making these sets, Ebay sellers are inflating the price.

Looking for a pair of original QTR Moldings for a coupe, didn't like how the repops fit. Im also looking for the following: Driver side upper door cover plate for standard interior (where the innner window felt belt line mounts to) w/ alignment brackets.

yep, currently still awaiting for my AFR 205 heads to arrive. I was suppose to get it mid July and now its being pushed back to August. Kinda frustrating, but with this current buy out, I believe all production may have stopped. Most likely, all top tier heads will be pushed to be manufactured in a different state out of CA where it is cheaper or have it made in China as their low tier heads are being massed produced there. Currently looking at other options, i.e Trick Flow, but they are back ordered until October or next year. seems all Manufacturing are delayed until next year,

Yes, the kit came with everything, Im not too into wiring, however, the shop I installed it at had no issue and was a straight forward install since my wires were original and not touched/modified prior. definitely one of my favorite things about the car. I dont need to add any additional gauges like oil pressure, water temp, this gauge kit has everything that you need, the two LCD Displays helps alot when on the road, as I get an accurate reading. I highly recommend RTX to anyone who is debating about going with this kit.

this is the current set up I have: Brakes: I have an old brake kit called Vintage Venom 13" Cobra front and rear, they are no longer in business. however, running modern wheels you will need to run a spacer but that varies depending on if your brake setup retains the original track width. I've seen ppl use 1" - 1.5" spacers for the front and 1/2 spacers for the rear. again, I would take measurements before pulling the trigger. Wheels: 99-04 18x9/10 Fr500s from Americanmuscle.com 18x9: https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-fr500-style-solid-black-wheel-18x9-28474g94.html 18x10: https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-fr500-style-solid-black-wheel-18x10-rear-only-28477.html Tires: Bfgoodrich sport comp2 245/40/18 (Front) 275/40/18 - they are quite robust and might rub, so you might need to roll your fenders, after I did this it never gave me an issue. Since im going with more power with the 408w, ill be changing tires and going with Michelins SS or Falken azenis rt615k+ to get a little more grip. Good Luck with your build!

Im getting a 408w built est hp goal will be around 500hp. Im running truetrac ford 9" rear with a 28 spline. I will be running street performance tires. I just wanted to upgrade for peace of mind, my old 393w was cranking out 430hp (365 rwhp), which was fun and never had a problem with the drivetrain, but since more power is the goal now, Im afraid the stock axles will take a toll. I should've went with 31 spline rear end diff, but I had the opportunity to buy 28 spline TT for a good price. Im not drag racing it just the occasional spirited driving and autox.

Hello, hope everyone had a good 4th of July weekend. Anyone have any Axle brand recommendations? Currently have a truetrac 28 spline, and wanted to upgrade my old axles with something stronger. I was thinking about these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-a28-67must

Received an email from my Machine Shop that there is a delay in my heads. Air Flow Research Heads Announces Investment by Taglich Private Equity Air Flow Research is excited to announce that Taglich Private Equity, LLC (TPE) has acquired AFR. TPE is a lower middle-market PE firm that specializes in recapitalizations, management buyouts, and majority equity investments, targeting manufacturing, business services and consumer products companies. Taglich looks to partner with management teams that can take advantage of their expertise and background in order to optimize their company's growth potential and create long-term value. AFR’s management team and employees will continue to operate out of its Valencia, CA facility, continuing to provide high quality, performance cylinder heads, service, parts, and machining associated with the AFR brand. Nothing will change; it will be business as usual. As President, Board Member and significant investor, Rick will continue to be involved with the organization, ensuring the foundation that his family and employees have built over the past 50 years will flourish under TPE’s guidance. Taglich and AFR are excited about the growth prospects both organically and through future acquisitions of other aftermarket performance companies.

thats a a great looking Celica... it reminds me of the group b races in the 80's. Crazy the 90's JDM cars are going up in Value

do you mind sharing what relay or wire kit you used? I was thinking of using an external fuse box for these accessories. ---------- Also, side note pulled the trigger on FPA 1 5/8 - 1 3/4 stepped headers from Stan.

I agree anything around 200-340 tire treadwear should be good for the street. Unless you are using slicks, then something will break.

Haven't herd any issues with strange, I am on the fence with their axles. with my old 393w stroker, I was putting down 365hp with 400tq at the wheels I was running a tko600 with small bearing ford 9 with 3:50's, with 275 BFG Sport Comp2's. IMO as long as your tire tread is not too sticky I think the small bearing rear end will hold. Im getting a 408w built with afr205s and FPA Headers aswell, trying to get to 500hp mark. I think with the right tire tread and some upgraded axles the small bearing can hold without issue. For sure my brakes will need to be upgraded so that is on the list aswell.

I was at a crossroads as well, I wasn't sure if I wanted to re-upholster my seats or go a different route I almost ended up going with the following seats: https://corbeau.com/trailcat/, https://corbeau.com/baja-rs/ or https://www.sparcousa.com/product/r100 the only major issue I read about these aftermarket brand seats wasn't about the seats but the tracks and mounts had to be modified to the floor pan as they wouldn't bolt in, due to incorrect specs. Eventually there was a black friday sale and reupholstered the original seats.