Phils69

I have always wanted the red also. Hopefully mine will be getting the much needed body and paint work this spring. I guess I'll go back with the original white mach1 scheme. I'm torn about that as I'm planning on keeping it until I'm pushing up daisies though. I will say you don't see as many white Mach 1's out there. Thinking about going with the Ford performance white on mine but I love the red along with the rear window treatment and front spoiler.

We need the troll hunter round these parts

Are you running the stock point setup?

I know. Just meeting his criteria

That's the way to accurately check your hp. 3200 lb car and your pushing 540hp. Man it comed off the line like a raped ape. Gotta love that converter and Trans lock.

If you just want loud cut the muffler off

What kind of compression are you running?

Hey that's smoking fast in any car let alone a 69. I'd have a very high pucker factor running mid 10's for sure. Are you satisfied with it or do you want to break into the 9's after roll upgrade and front susp?

You will be knocking on the 9 sec door soon. That's all motor right?

Gotta love that 1.4 60', that's getting off the line in a hurry. U got a roll cage in their?

Yea I thought the mini looking starter began when the 5.0 started in 87 but his pics looked like the old style. Probaly just loaded wrong pic in their system. It works so I'm a happy camper at the moment other than the friggin rain is making me ditch the dyno trip.

Did you find out what was causing the screech?

Don't think I'll make it to the dyno today as its raining like crazy here this am. Maybe it'll clear up later but there is a 70% chance. I got some great gas milage Thursday night. Had to get a tow from work as my steed's starter decided it had enough on my first trip there. I had the later style small starter and the guy had a time looking up a car to match. He got the P/N from a 95 Mustang with a 351? I did not know there was such a thing. You guys ever heard of a 351 in a stang in 95? I googled and found the 95 Saleen came with one but I can't see that Ford did. Anywho, I got a Bosch reman from Napa and she is good to go again.

Check your level as you should when hot. The oil should not be that high on your tube to leak there. Maybe too much in there?

Could be where the tube connection is. That's what it looks like in the pic but it could have puked also as Bruce said.

I am running a Windsor with a c4. FPA works well and still looks good after 6 years. Pricey but worth it IMO. Let me know if you want some pics.

I thought the 275/60's I just put on would make the car stick pretty good on the street. That torque will just break em loose too easy in first. I was playing over the weekend and once the initial shift to second settled down it would grip and pull like hell. I agree a lower hp car set up right would beat me out of the hole every time with fighting the wheel spin. I'd like to try the caltracs to see if would help with the launch bite. Anything over 3/4 throttle in first is waiting time right now and I have not learned the sweet spot yet to ride that line. I've heard the track will definetly have a better grip. Kind of scared about really hooking it the first time and finding parts on the ground though. Can't wait

Me and Ed spoke about what the end result I was looking for and he built the cam for a power band from 2500 to 6k. I guess I'll set it at 6k and see what happens. Looking forward to it.

i have googled and have found a few people with faulty switches. One guy took one apart and said it very cheaply made. it looks like people ditch the switch from the kit and add a better one. I have one on the way from an electric vehicle parts supplier and will try it next week. I have called Comp on the issue and they say to return the whole kit for an exchange. I dont want to tear it all back out just for the switch. If it is something else that is the issue I am stumped. Its a simple relay working it. Power goes in and energizes the switch which closes the contact to conect the neg from the switch to the motor negative. its getting the power to the relay and the relay is energizing showing continuity between the switch input and pump negative output so I am sure the relay is working. It's gotta be the switch as far as I can tell. I will post the results whe I get the next switch in. Thanks

I had the 408 built about 6 years ago but just upgraded the cam and heads recently. I had a new driveshaft made and installed with new u joints. I had bought a loop then also but never put it on. Haven't seen it in years. I'll jack it up and double check that everything is tight bore I go. Don't know if I can get a loop here in time. Sure hop I don't have to work on Saturday so I can get this done. I'd like to go to a .355 gear rear but will have to run it thru a calculator to see the rpm difference at cruising.

I would like to getting the wide ban gauge in the near future. I'm doing a 3 pull for $50 so it's not dropping too much on the trip.

I'm thinking about opening up the rev limiter for the session. The valve train is built for rpm with Scorpian rockers and morel link bar lifters. Man you think the .6 lift is a small cam? I know the gear is low but with no OD I'm sticking with it. Just a weekend toy not a drag car setup so I'm hitting the strip to just have some fun on a test and tune day. Thanks for the reply

I am heading to the dyno for the first time to see where my A/F ratio is and if the stock mechanical fuel pump can keep up with the combo. I am running a Carter pump but have lost the info on it since the original build 6 years ago. Can you guys give me some pointers on dos and donts for my first time dyno runs? I'm not looking for an all out #'s run just want to make sure the a/f ratio is safe before the maiden drag strip run next month. I've got my rev limiter set at 5500 right now, should I leave it there or raise it? Built for a weekend driver. Combo below. Car: 69 Mustang 3200 lbs 408w at 10.3:1. Cast crank, forged rods and pistons AFR 205 renegades 58cc FTI cam .598 intake .587 exhaust duration 230 and 242 @ 111 deg Weiand stealth intake. Plenum cut down for cross flow and ported Holley 750dp C4 tranny with 2800 stall 9" rear with 3.25 28" tire Long tube headers 2.5" exhaust

The switch only has one connection on it and it is screwed to the chassis directly with the engine ground harness. If I disconnect the switch from the relay and hook that relay point to a ground it runs continuously. The switch is trying to work as it should just pumping to 5 hg of vacuum instead of 22. I have triple checked the wiring but it just looks like another bad switch. I've ordered a different brand of switch this time and will try it when it get here.

Update. The switch was bad also. I ordered a new switch, same kind that came with the kit. I hooked it up yesterday and it worked, switched pump on at 15 and cut it off at 22. I went for a test ride today and it was pumping up only to 5 and cutting the pump off. I'm kind of wondering if it's something with the wiring that's causing the switch to go bad but I dont see it. The switch is closed and sends a neg ground to relay when it is below the vacuum set point. Once the vacuum required is met the switch opens and breaks the negative ground ,cutting the path for the pump neg ground. I have it wired just like I posted before with the two relays. Do you guys see anything not right here or am just getting some bad switches? I came across an electric vehicle forum on my many google searches about this and most there seem to use a Square D commercial switch which is quite expensive. I disconnected the pump today and installed a vacuum canister and it's working quite well. It loses the power assist sitting at a stoplight but during normal brake application it works good. I'd like to get the switch working but one more bad switch and I'm going to return this kit to sender. Any ideas?