Phils69

Bear in mind these are over 10 years old at least.

I can't help with the clearance pic right now, the engine is out of the car at the moment. I bought my headers a long time ago so I am sure the price would not be relevant any more. Should be on their website?

I just made one location point top and bottom. I mocked up the ride height and had the eyes of the shock at a length of 14" when I tacked the brackets on. Hindsight I would have added a couple more points on the lower for adjustment. I'm going to try it where it sits and let everything settle in then make changes from there.

Thanks for the concern and info. Judging from the first pic I can see why you guys were bringing the safety concerns up and rightly so. How about the spring question I had? Any thoughts?

The car is being supported on a rotisserie as you can see in the background below. The blocks were being used to represent ride height not to support the car when I’m under it. Jack stands were used as well

I have the suspension bolted in and the ride height where it was before the 4 link swap. I have the coil spring adjuster near the bottom to get the height correct with the 200lb springs. I guess I will try it here when I get the car back together but if I dropped to 150lb springs I would probaly have the ability to drop the rear height a little If I wanted right?

I have the AFR205'S as well along with the FPA headers and like Alan everything fits at stock mount height. I went with the Stealth intake with the middle divider blended down and a custom cam and convertor. It makes more power than I need for sure but I don't know if it would hit the HP goals you stated, never had it on a dyno.

The DS501'S I ordered came with the COM8T-102PK bearing mounts. Did you guys use the optional thrust bearing kit, P/N 7888-109, for making adjusting the coil spring adjustments easier?

Thats what I was thinking of doing with the cross bar. Thanks for the help!

Bob, You wouldn't have any pics on what your top bracket looks like for the coilover and where its attached do you? I have bought a pc of tubing and am thinking of attching it to both inner frames and building a bracket off it for each side? That looks like what some kits do.

Understood. I just want to make sure I am in the ballpark the first shot at it. Do you run a QA1 shock as well? I was thinking of getting theirs as a set?

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll pull my receipts and see what springs I have on the front then go from there.

I am ready to order the rear shocks/springs for the four link rear suspension I am installing. I need to know what what lb spring works good on our cars for street driving. Does anyone know the car weight on the front and rear? If anyone has some suggestions it would be appreciated.

Nice looking setuo Vicfreg

Here is what I have made to raise the lower arm well higher than the pic. It will tie the front in near where the existing leaf spring bolt point is but drop thye arm until it it level to ride height per the instructions. It will use the 1/2" bolt thru the leaf spring point and the front will be welded to the bottom of the rear torque box. I made a bracket for the rear that will have a pin in it to locate and center itself off the existing leaf spring bracket on the axle. It will use a 5/8-11 bolt through the axle bracket and the original u-bolts to the axle. I just feel better with this stuff up higher near the subframe brackets. Please forgive the welds, I'm definetly not a pro lol. Any thoughts?

Looks like the pic I had added wasn't showing up. I added it again.

I wish that was my garage. It is a belated friends. He was a good guy.

Thanks guys. I am not a fabricator by any means but necessity is the mother of invention as they say. My neighbor did the welding so that sure helped.

I pulled my mock setup out but here is a pic of the setup assembled to a rear clip. The kit I have is a generic less the shocks but on any car the lower control arm from the center of the axle would be the same distance I am thinking. Looks like the kit is designed for a crossmember style front support for the lower arms. I am going to make a bracket to move the lower control arm over closer to the axle and tie the front connection point in near where the existing front leaf spring bracket is. I have decided to keep the bracket from the kit that holds the lower ar and sway bar, going to cut off the bottom and make that just the sway bar bracket.

I am starting to mock up my generic triangulated four link rear suspension and I am not happy with the ground clearance I am seeing. It looks like I would have only 5" under the front lower control arms to ground. I guess this is normal from a lot of the pics I am seeing online. I think I am going to make some brackets to raise it on the same plane as my Global West subframe connectors. I just don't like the idea of something hanging that low in front of the rear axle. Am I freaking out for nothing??

Finished the front traction box repair. I am happy with the way it turned out. One less weak point on the car.

I would go local like I did before. I used a guy that some friends recommended and could not be more satisfied. He is a small father/son shop and has helped me out a lot. He even came to my home for the first start on my engine after I installed it. Having said that a friend totally switched to crate morors at his shop.

I had planned to remove the subframe connectors and add a welded to floor design but decided against it. I had to sit the car down off the rotisserie temporarily so I put it on jack stands. The rear was supported at the rear of the subframe connectors and the very front of the frame by the radiator. I noticed that on the left front there was a 1/4" gap between the frame and the jack stand when I rested it on the stands. If the car is that stiff to hold itself up like that there is no way I am cutting off those Global West subframe connectors. I am going to replace the torque box and a couple of other small issues then do the rear suspension. I have already bought the generic rear suspension kit but there will be some trial and error adapting it, should be fun though and I'll surely learn a lot.

I am getting a little closer to finishing up the front torque box replacement. I had my neighbor (frame/body guy)come by yesterday to see what I needed to do next. He said drill 5/16" holes in the replacement panel where the original spot welds were. That way we can fill them in with weld and make it look as stock as possible. He also said where there are gaps put in a 5/16" self tapping screw to pull it up tight and we will fill the holes in after welding. This may be common knowledge to you guys but I wanted to pass it along in case someone like me is doing research on replacing the torque box.