TexasEd

Ok. Serious second thoughts now. Probably not going to get them. You all have bee very helpful.

Thanks for all the replies. I did not realize the squeaky noises were a problem. Would probably drive me crazy. My rear valance squeaks on every bump now and I hate it. is it the gasket or frame against the glass or is it the structure of the louvers?

There are two chin spoilers the cheap one in stock and the expensive on not in stock, $114 vs $362. Is one 3x better than the other one?

Can you give more detail about the vinyl? I was thinking that route might be a good one for a car that might go to a blackout hood and then back again later. Would have to use matte black vinyl and bet a pro shop to install it to look right. You'd have the raised edge but other than that it should look good.

I want the shop to repair my fender but they are asking for a replacement. I did find a dynacorn at CJPP (groan). I found a fender locally but the back side support structure was rusted. Mine is great except for the dent. I guess they could splice my undamage section to the old original one with bad door end but they are expense even when in not perfect shape. For the hinges I am going to buy the pins for both doors and see if they can be rebuilt first. I'm only worried about one of the passenger hinges being bad. If not rebuildable I will buy original used ones from WCCC. Thanks!

I'm thinking of adding the chin spoiler and Sport Slats (Rear Louvers) on my car but not the rear spoiler. Also might add a 70 grabber stripe. Looks like a 69 Boss 302 without the writing. I'm going with the NPD reproduction on the louvers. Since I am having my car painted I was thinking it might be good to have them fitted before they paint the car. I am having the rear glass taken out and reinstalled too so I don't know if that creates a problem later. It might be nice to save that $600 parts expense until later but then I would be drilling into a painted car. And then I've had the car since 85 and haven't put them on yet. Maybe I would not like driving with them after they are installed and then too late. What would you do?

My body shop wants me to try and get a replacement front passenger fender for my car. Which ones should I look for or avoid? Last I checked NPD was backordered but I checked today and in stock! https://www.npdlink.com/product/fender-front-rh/102205/204930 Hinges - same question. Do I need both hinges or just a new pin and bushings? The door does set in a rut when closing and does not close smoothly. Do you also replace the mounting bolts? - Hinges are Out of stock at NPD Thanks

The tree is gone now. Also adding bricks to widen the end of the driveway.

Yeah I did not list all the details but would pull the emblems and bumpers. Only the medallions and the trunk letters will go back on. Leaving fender emblems off. The engine and transmission are coming out. I listed that above. Not much acid damage. The engine bay will need to be degreased and power washed at minimum. I'll consider adding the engine bay stickers back afterwards. I'll stick with satin black in the engine bay. Don't care for the color matched bays on Mustangs.

I rolled it into a tree next to my driveway. Took me almost two weeks to go look at the damage. Cutting the tree down in a week or two. It is too close to the driveway now that we have a third driver in the house and was always a problem getting the Mustang out.

Thanks. The dash install would benefit from no glass as well. here are some pictures of what I need addressed I picked up a near perfect original door but hopefully can save the fender.

I bought the Classic Auto Air perfect fit kit and it looks pretty close to a factory air system when installed. https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/complete-ac-systems/1969-ford-mustang-air-conditioning-system/

Yep.

So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in. Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger. I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids. Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January. So excited. Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop. Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time. I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps. My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else. Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people. So share your stories, encouragement and advice. Drivetrain Plan: Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan: I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff. I could potentially do all the following Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!

Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums? I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc. Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed. You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install. None of those problems switching to manual discs. So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step. Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.

The sending unit is hard. I installed one in a tank before I put it in the car and it was difficult. Doing it under a car is harder. I developed a leak the second time I worked on the sending unit while the tank was in the car and made a huge mess. The hard part is keeping the flat washer flat as you place the sending unit on it and then tighten down the pressure ring. If you can do it out of the car I recommend that. A little petroleum jelly on the washer also helped to keep it in place.

Sorry so late on this but I think you could do it either way and there are pros and cons. Depends on what you are starting with. I thought that the engine block does not care which water pump you use but I'm no expert. You just have to be consistent on pump, radiator, brackets, etc. If you want it to look correct then passenger side. If you don't care and don't have a radiator, brackets or water pump yet then I would do it to the drivers side and get 70 brackets.

those assumptions get people all the time with cars this old and numerous previous owners. I need to go make a list of the mods I've made so when my kids are sorting it out after I've lost it they can figure it out.

I tried it with two tubes using dowels once and bolts another time. Both of them blew out sideways.

I'll just point out that using the tube without the applicator is just a pain in the ass.

Yep 8" vs 8.8" . they are not the same differential.

The panel was not tightened down during that, I was test fitting it. Yes, I am missing the screw. It looks better with the panel screwed down, the bottom is still a mess. Anyone have a pic showing how it fits under the sill plate?

Don't dim. https://www.customcarlight.com/ford/mp-6970-led-ga-xp-aqua-69-70-kit-mustang-gauge-led-lamps/ If I was doing it again I think I would get blue instead of Aqua.

All working now

No I was talking about the ground screw. I just wanted to make sure it was not wired to the chassis for ground. My gauges get good ground from the top two mounting screws. I think the plastic parts disintegrated from age. I did not replace them.