LiLMike

Good to know guys. The shop I mentioned was the one that built it. That is why I was confused. He said Mercon VI but I read on the Ford Parts site to use Motorcraft Mercon V. I going to assume that Ford knows what they are talking about. I do have the Red Eagle clutches in my tranny.

I have a brand new 4R70W that I am putting into my 69 Mach1. What ATF should I use and how much. This includes the torque converter also. I have read that Mercon V is recommended but the transmission shop mentioned Mercon 6. Also what are your thoughts about synthetic?

Be carefull, the aftermarket A/C units have a different size cutout in the dash which I believe is smaller than stock. Check the A/C unit you want to purchase first. It's easy to cut out the correct size opening for the center vent.

I went with New Vintage gauges. They look great but the way they mount sucks!!! It was very difficult to get them in and lined up straight. If I had it to do over again, would go with Dakota digital gauges. They make a real nice looking analog gauge and it is easier to mount.

Like 69volunteer, I bought an AAW wiring harness before I knew about Randy. I have put in a 120 amp alt, electric fans and power amp for the radio. I wanted the extra power so the alt was necessary. If I had it to do over again I would have gone with painless. Reason being is that painless uses the stock color coded wires where as AAW just picks their own.

Mike, how long is it when folded up? Do you have a spare in your trunk?

I have a 69 Mach1, I'm guessing the 70 is the same. Mine is all apart and in the shop but I need the width of the back seat and trunk.Trying to get a pop up canopy for car shows and they fold up to about 43 - 46 inches. Not sure if I would have room to put it in the trunk or lay it in the back seat.

I had the same problem with a 70 Mach1 years ago only all my lights flickered and went out. It turned out to be a faulty connector going to the dimmer switch.

I ordered these from Summit; http://m.summitracing.com/parts/QTP-QTEC50CP They seem to be a better quality than the summit brand. Not installed yet but I will connect them to my FPA headers and fabricate a short turn down. I want them to stay tucked under the car and not show.

I made an immediate 90* turn coming out of the firewall and went into the fender just under the hood hinge. I covered the wires in that braded split sleeve wire loom and then ran all my wires in the fender in conduit. I did this so the wires would not get damaged from anything the tire tread throws out. I did this on both sides so I have all the wires out of sight under the hood except for the dizzy wires and such.

CJ Pony has repop vents. I ordered a set and sent them back. They are cheap lightweight Chinese crap with just silver paint instead of plastic chrome plating. That is why I decided to rebuild mine.

I refurbished mine as described above. I used the felt side of the Velcro. I just cut it to fit. Only problem I had was when assembled them, the felt was too tight. I used an old beard trimmer and shaved the felt down after installing it in the vent. Placed the balls back in and it works great. Nice tight fit but you can still move them with little effort.

All great advice here, especially Barnett. I think with keeping things simple and the cost down, I'll do as Mikestang suggested and just replace the intake and carb. With this motor what torque converter and gears should I be looking at?

Looks like building my 351w is more expensive than I thought.

Thank you for the concerns about my mother. It just is going to cost more than I anticipated getting her qualified for Medicaid. I totaled up what Barnett listed and it comes to around $4000. For $4500 I could get the 393 stroker with the RPM intake and 750 cfm carb. I could leave the rest of the motor as is, change the torque converter and put gears in. That may be a cheaper way to go or at least have more horsepower for just a little more money. I wouldn’t need an overdrive tranny or worry about the power brakes. If I just went with the motor as is and just swap out the intake and carb (what Mikestang suggested) what stall speed would I need and what gears would be best. I would like it to be drivable on the interstate.

Well, due to life and some financial burdens (my mother has to go into a nursing home among other things) I can't swing the new motor that you all have helped me plan out. However I can do some work on my existing motor that will fit into my budget. I have a pretty much stock 351w with a Performer intake. If I do a mild performance rebuild on it I can keep my FMX transmission and upgrade my rear end. That will keep me within a budget and still get some performance results out of my Mustang. First off I thought about going with a top end kit. Edelbrock p/n 2092 http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2092 Then I can rebuild my FMX with the shift kit, band and clutches that Barnett suggested in a previous post. I could still go with the FPA headers and dana trutrac rear end. Keeping the FMX and stock converter I thought I could go with 3:25 gears (The stock gears are 3:00 I think, not sure). In my head this will be somewhat performance enhanced and still be lots cheaper than going with that 393 stroker we were discussing.. What do you guys think?

Great idea....I think I'll do just that. Guess I'll check into the recommended intakes now.

I think I'll go with the Howards p/n 220525-10. You sold me Barnett...LOL I like the reviews and write ups on it also. Should I put in new lifters? Just seems like I shouldn't use the old lifters on a new cam.

You are correct Barnett, the heads are Dart Iron eagle cast heads. Got the thumbs up for the Howards cam. He said I could go up to a 620 lift.

It has dart heads is all I know. Not sure of which ones. He is checking with the engine builder on that Howards cam you suggested. Can't get a compression test due to the fact that the motor sits in this van style box truck. No room to get to the plugs with a tester. I'll see if I can find out which dart heads are used.

Yes, it already has the link bar lifters.

The motor is exactly as I described. The guy that owns it has my car now in his shop. He got out of the concrete business and opened up his car shop about yeas ago. He has done car work t his house for about 5 years before that. I talked to the guy who ilt the motor. He owns Champion Engine builders here in Indiana. I will be putting in a 4r70w tranny with 3:73 gears. I'm actually looking for an aggressive idle and quick throttle response.

I was trying to save on space. I know the one listed is a little large. It's just getting crowded in there plus I'm thinking of going with a hydrotech brake system and not sure if the pressure from the stock pump will be enough.

Sounds like I should rethink the intake manifold. I'll do some more research. As for the cam, why the bad reviews on the thumper? I'm not worried about the vacuum since I decided to go aggressive on the cam and go with the Hydrotech brake booster. That is the one running off of hydraulics from the power steering pump rather than vacuum. Yes, I have power rakes. This is why I posted the subject about power steering pump upgrades. Thanks for the heads up RSMach1. And yes Mike, don't want to do a lot of tuning...I want to be like that Ronco baker oven thingy...Set it and forget it!