Powershift

From your description it sure sounds like a carb issue. There isn't much to the little Autolite 2100 carb. Just pull it, rebuild it, and see how it runs.

I'm running cut 620 springs in the front, for now. My rear tires are 285/40/17 and the fronts are 255/40/17. Tires are Nitto NT555. The wheels have a 4.5 backspace on the front, a 5 on the rear. I love the fit of the wheels and tires, and have zero rub issues.

If your not looking for a project car I would search places like Autotrader.com or similar sites. Most Fox vehicles on the forums (such as SVTPerformance.com) seem to be project cars of some sort. I've had about 12 Fox Stangs over the years, and the Mustang forums are the last place I would look for one.

I wasn't really liking how bright the new Le Carra steering wheel was, or the look of the wood wheel itself. It just didn't have the Trans Am look I was after, and the thin wood rim just didn't have the "race car feel" I wanted. So, I swapped out the wheel for a leather covered Le Carra. I also scuffed up the polished billet horn button, and shot it with some SEM black paint. I also upgraded the starter with a high torque mini unit from Powermaster, along with upgrading the starter wiring. The original starter cranked pretty slow, and didn't sound too healthy.

Thats almost my exact combo... 17" V48... with 17X8 front, and 17X9 rear http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9925&page=5

Yep! That would help. I will be upgrading my cooling system with a new radiator, electric fan, and boxing in the radiator. Directing airflow is just as important as having a good fan and shroud.

Assuming your 2 core radiator is in good condition, and your electric fan works well.... box in the radiator to give the only path for air right through the radiator. Trans Am cars have the top of the grill area blocked off to keep the path of air into the radiator. Also, box in the sides and bottom better. Air acts like electricity, in that it takes the easiest path out. If you give it no choice on where to go... it will all go through the radiator.

Front Spindles are bigger on a '70. Different steering column too. I'm sure there are a few other mechanical differences.

You can even pick up a used, aluminum, aftermarket intake for really cheap. I can't see putting a heavy, more restrictive, factory intake on if you have the option to upgrade at the time of the swap. Unless you are specifically wanting NOS type parts, I understand. But, from the sounds of your current setup... you would benefit from a better intake. Hell, if we lived a little closer I'd sell you this one for about $50. It's a somewhat vintage 289/302 Weiand "Colt 65" intake.

You could always get a much better flowing, and lighter, aftermarket aluminum intake... and paint it to give it more of a factory appearance.

At least you got a few runs in before, and after, the hose was cut! Ha ha!

VERY good looking car!

That's not cruise control. That knob above my radio is for the Mach 1 sport lamps in the front grill. Sorry!

WOW..... this is one COOL build!! I have a Whippled '03 Cobra, and my '70 Mach 1. I would LOVE to have the power of my '03 in the Mach!

Nice! I'm down that way for car events pretty often. I'll PM you next time I know I will be in the LA area.

if you don't mind me asking, where are you located in Calif? I'm in Santa Maria.. about 50 miles north of Santa Barbara.

Yea, I'd say you have it turned the wrong way for sure. It should sit like mine...

How do you like the front belts? I will be doing the same, and would love to hear what you think of this kit.

Simpson race shoes.... size 10 $45 plus shipping

Thanks guys!! I really like how the car sits. The next round of mods will be brakes, subframe connectors, and a 5 speed swap.

HA HA! Thank you!!

Got a nice pic of my Mach 1 last night....

There really isn't too much to those little 2 barrel carbs. I would double check your float height adjustment first. There is also a quick way to see if your idle air mixture screw(s) are at the optimum level too. With the motor off, turn the mixture screw in all the way, counting how many turns it takes until it stops. If it takes say 2.5 turns before it stops, back it back out 2 turns. Next, hook up a tach lead to measure engine RPMs. It's best to have it in view as you work on the carb. Start the car, and slowly make adjustments to the mixture screw. Pay attention to if the engine RPMs increase, or decrease, as you make small adjustments. Leave the mixture screw at the highest idle point you can reach. Once you have done that, then adjust your idle speed screw on the throttle to set the proper idle RPM.

What type of carb? Sounds like maybe the float level is a bit high.

I think it looks perfect blue!! To me, the Eleanor theme cars are WAY over done. Seems to be one at every show I attend anymore.