sixt9stang

Welp. My taxes are done and it wasn't pretty. Looks like I will be bringing my extra crank to the machine shop to have things re-balanced and this will be more of a budget build. I would still like to use the trick flow heads. I will have to see if my Speed Pro pistons will work with them in case I need different pistons before balancing. I might even have to use my old heads and just put better springs on them but I don't want to. Then in the future I am thinking I will grab the 351 and slowly acquire parts to build that. Someday :(

Ya. The VIN has the H for the 351. I haven't seen the door tag yet so I don't know what all the options it had yet. It did have the factory disc brakes but so does my coupe so that probably isn't that special. I was hoping to look at the rest of the parts Thursday or Friday but we had a major snowstorm on Thursday and I couldn't get a hold of him on Friday unfortunately.

Thanks Mike. Kind of what I was starting to think too. Will know what I am doing probably later this week.

Haha. You guys are probably right. I should just stick whatever money and time I would into this into my current car. I really wish he didn't cut it all apart since I have seen much more rust.

Yep. Would need wheel wells and at least part of the quarters. What do you think? Is it worth saving? Or would it be worth picking up the shell and suspension if I can get it cheap enough and then parting out what is decent on the car and keeping the 9 inch and suspension for my car? I figure since it isn't a Mach1 or anything more rare than a fastback it wouldn't be too huge of an issue if it didn't get restored. I know that it can definitely be restored but I don't know if I have the skills, time, and money at this time to pull it off.

https://imgur.com/a/vO1S8Wl Pictures from this weekend. I have to go look at the other parts the guy has. I think he had the front clip removed because he thought he needed to for the Mustang ll style suspension. He was going to put a 460 in it that was bored out and stuff. He said he wanted to take it to the drag strip once in a while.

I talked with the guy a bit more. He has floor plans, firewall and front aprons new. He also has the original hood, fenders, and original seats. I don't know about the rest of the interior.. I have seen the hood and that is in good shape. He said the fenders would need work. I was thinking 2,000 for the shell and all the metal. I guess he also purchased a Mustang II style front suspension kit for it and also some type of new rear suspension but he didn't know what brand. I mentioned TCP and he thought it was maybe from them. Considering their front suspension kit is 3,000 or more I told him I would mostly be interested in the shell. Don't think I could swing 5,000 or more to get everything he has.

Found a person selling a '69 fastback shell mid project. He doesn't have the engine or tranny. He bought a front and rear suspension kit to go with it and has some new metal like the floor and front aprons.

That is another thought too. Main reason for using the 302 is that I have a block ready to go plus I have other things like headers and intake. Although I may switch to a different intake since it is just the Edelbrock Performer. And I don't know if my headers will clear the 4r70w transmission that I am going to be installing at the same time. I would basically be saving the money of have the 351 block machined. My father in law has a 351 in a pickup that is just sitting that I may be able to grab but it is as 86 or something around that year so a non roller block.

Good to know. Thanks. I will check with the machine shop when I talk to them about my plans once I figure out finances. I always thought the idea of turning the 302 into a 347 would be making it too strung out or unreliable but I guess tons of people have done it at this point with good results.

Definitely thought about it but figured with the 332 kit I wouldn't need to worry about notching the cylinders for the rod clearance. Am I making too big of deal about that? I have never had to do that before. I will check out the trick flow heads. I also decided that once I figure out the rotating assembly I will probably go with the one Howards cam you suggested a while back: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-221275-12/overview/make/ford I guess I didn't think about it but if I go with the increased displacement would that cam still work well? Thanks for your expertise.

Just a quick update. I am waiting to see how bad my taxes turn out. Depending on how that goes I am either going to bring my extra crank in to be turned and balanced with my existing rods and pistons. Or if I don't have to pay in that much I might get a full Eagle rotating assembly and stroke the engine to 332. If I am able to afford the new assembly I am going to go with the AFR185 heads instead of the AFR165 heads. My goal is to do the rotating assembly so that I can run the larger heads. This way if I ever move to a 351 engine I can use the heads on that engine. I think the 165's would be too small for a 351. At least in a performance app. And thanks for reminding me about the harmonic balancer and flex plate. I need to get both new.

If I knew how much data the site uses I could probably figure out a rough estimate of what it would cost to host in AWS or Azure. I hate the idea of losing so much knowledge on a forum like this one. I don't know how much money the site brings in from ads but I would guess it would not be enough to pay for it's own virtual machine.

Thanks for trying. Hope nothing happened to him. When you mentioned email I remembered that I had emailed him a couple of times also so I am going to try those addresses too.

Before the forum crash a while back there was a guy named Larry that had the username 69Gmachine that was on here a lot. Does anyone know how to get a hold of him? I was talking with him back then about suspension and brakes and would like to see if he is still making parts. This is his Cardomain page: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2387156/1969-ford-mustang/

Sorry I don't have specific help but maybe the guys at Modern Driveline can help you. http://www.moderndriveline.com

Interesting. Did not know that. Right now I am planning on bringing it into the shop and having them take a look. Right now the worst part is where the rear main seal would ride. I know there are repair sleeves that can be installed in that but I don't know if they are prone to leaking.

about 2 years.

I do have another crank but this one was balanced with my rods and pistons so I would have to get everything rebalanced.

Sounds like a plan.

Apparently when I got my crank back from the machine shop the plastic bag wasn't sealed that well and some moisture got in there. Here is a pic. I was starting to clean it with some steel wool but figured I would see if people thought it was shot or should maybe be turned .020 under. It is currently turned .010 under.

My car is a factory disc car. Let me know if you need anymore pictures.

The e-street price is for 2. I am thinking of going with them. Might be worth the $700 or so more to step up to the AFR 165 heads.

Best of luck!

I think the cheapest and best upgrade is the Explorer rearend. The Jeg's rearend is $1200. I am sure you can find an Explorer rearend and have it. Uult how you want for less than that.