danno
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Posts posted by danno
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What is the seat in your photo? I looks perfect for working in a 69 stang
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I wonder if it would work to buy a cheap pay by the minute cell phone and plug it into the 12 volts and install maybe in the trunk. If you pay by the minute, buy the least minutes needed, and install it. Then is there a way for you to track the location of the cell phone hidden in the trunk of your car?
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33 minutes ago, Sal DiMauro said:Don't want to spend that type of money on a steering column , and I'm most likely going with a 13 inch wheel any way, just wanted to get some input on a after market column Thanks for the help i will keep you in mind if i do
I understand completely. Some really like the tilt-away or break-away feature only on original columns. It is very rare, only used in certain Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury cars between 1967 and 1969. The tilt away could not be used when the key switch was moved to the column in 1970.
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Over the years I have collected pieces of the tilt columns I have found at scrap yards. I might be able to put together a tilt colum for you, but these are worth a lot of money. The last one at West Coast Classic Cougar sold for $1600. You might give them a call to see if they have one. They had one last summer without the "breakaway" feature, I am not sure if they still have it.
Another option is there is a column from a 1968 thunderbird on ebay now. It is $400. It could work, the only issue is that it has the column shift features you could work around. I am not sure if the seller realizes it is a tilt column, but I know it is. it is at https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Thunderbird-Blue-Steering-Column-used-blue/183973213027?hash=item2ad5a87363%3Ag%3A-DoAAOSw2addjoxT&LH_ItemCondition=4
I will offer any help I can if you decide to go with original.
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The 69 had a 3 prong plug. I would think the 70 is the same. I think the resistor has 4 prongs, the 4th one goes to teh blower. So I think you are correct, the 4th prong goes to the blower motor.
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That is almost obscene to have the middle finger extended like that. It should not be done in a polite desert.
Midlife and Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
still available, price is now $900. If anyone is interested. I have no connection to the seller, but noticed it is for sale.
https://eauclaire.craigslist.org/pts/d/chippewa-falls-1969-mustang-gauge/7231510622.html
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The factory console had 3 wires. A black one that connects to a screw for ground, a blue black one for the ash tray light, and a blue white one for the cig lighter. The connect to connectors to the right of the wiper switch.
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Well, that is interesting. Also is your answer. The price came in the last line. Free was too good to believe, I was wondering what the catch was. I guess if you want security, that is it. I think most of us have other means of protection. The only way my car could be taken is by a tow truck, which is easy these days. I even have a system for carjacking. If you have the other protections so the only way it can be taken is with a tow truck, this would work.
Good theft insurance with real valuations also helps provide assurance. Stated value insurance could be an option? With stated value, you can get a higher value ( than what books say) to cover your added features. I had it for years, then I got Hagerty insurance.
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20 hours ago, Mike65 said:I have the same wheel as danno in my 69 Coupe that I got from him. I do not have cruise control so I am going to replace the horn pad with a standard black one. See attached link.
I might be able to get a standard black one. Check back in a few days.
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They look like great seats. Let us know if they work. Similiar uphostery to the original.
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Well, the question about budget needs to be asked. I was interested until I saw the price. About $2800, not including labor. Is that about correct?
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Yes, I call it a flextape, that is commonly used in teh electronics industry as a circuit board that is flexible.
The insulator I am referring to is between the circuit board and the gauges. You must have this on each gauge or you will fry things. However, it will not cause the LED's to not work. I would start by checking for voltage to the circuit board. I think it is the blue/red wire, the second from the end. Make sure you have 12 volts on this when the lights are on and everything else is off.
Do The gauges work? If they do, that tells me you have a ground connection. If they do not, then that could be the problem.
To rule out the LED as a potential problem , but you old light bulbs back in and try them.
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Did you blow the headlight switch when you were trying the foil idea? Disconnect teh instruments and see if the light on the heater controls works.
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I am wondering if the ground is good? Are you checking it with the panel screwed in and connected to chassis ground? Make sure the ground screw is in on the voltage regulator plate and also in the
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
There must be insulating pieces between the flextape and the gauges. If you do not have these, it will short the guages. I do not know if that could effect the lights. With it removed from the car, hook up 12 volts to the light connector pin and see if that allows it to work.
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You only had it for eight years? Yes, that 3 pin connector is attached to a ribbon cable to the potentiometer. I need to find someone who sees the value of something so unique. Maybe it is worth 10 cents (if I include the dime in the photo).
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The 3 pin connector shown on top of the ruler is about 0.5 inches wide. Much narrower than the standard 3 in a row connectors. Very unique. Have you ever seen anything like this?
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I came across an original 18A900 radio fader control wiring harness. I was at a scrap yard and noticed this on a 68 tbird, the same harness is in a 69 Mustang. It has the potentiometer for adjusting front to rear speaker volume. It includes 2 very unique connectors that I did not know were used in 1968 or 1969. The only person who might need this is someone doing a concours restoration. Does anyone think one of these would be of value to anyone on this forum?
I know, everyone wants photos... I am working on getting them.
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If nobody else wants this, I might pick it up, just as an investment. If I could buy it for under $1000, and sell for more, it might be worth it.
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8 hours ago, Alan_Mac said:If you want original its not a bad price. It looks to be in very good condition and the tach has been rebuilt. Might want to inquire on who and what was rebuilt. The price gone up considerably in the past 7 years!
Yes, they have gone up and will probably continue. When I see Mach 1's selling for the $50,000 to $100,000 range, it does not surprise me. How can you have a Mach without a tach? It should have been standard equipment on them.
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You need a new underdash harness and under hood harness to make this work. Existing harnesses can be converted, but it is some work to do it. I also understand they make an adapter kit to convert from regular to tach harness. That would not be too difficult.
What do you think of the price?
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1969 tach dash available
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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I just had a talk with the guy about it. He used to have a car that this came out of, and that car was sold many years ago. Unfortunately the unique wiring harnesses that go with the tack were sold with that car. He is going to put it on ebay motors soon, and raise the price. So if anyone wants this, jump on it now. Midlife can probably either modify your existing wire harnesses to accept it.
The price on ebay will probably be cosiderable more, because of the fees involved.