rchappelear

etch primed with new door shells

Purchased my dream car in 2009, 1969 mustang fastback. I posted a "wanted" posting on craigslist for a good project car. I had a guy respond from the dead middle of kansas saying he had a rust free 69 for sale. He sent me around 120 photos of the car and really was a rust free car. Their were a few areas that needed work, like the passenger side rear fender. Someone in the past must have rubbed up against something and dented the quarter. I have since sent it out to media blasters, had it etch primed, sheet metal work done, Linex undercoating sprayed on, rebuilt the 9 rear end and powder coated. Currently i have it in the body shop to get the engine bay sprayed semi gloss black and the rest of the body work/paint finished. here is some of my photos.

This is a basic 1969 mustang 9 inch rear end. No "N" on the casing :( So what is the big deal between a 28 and a 31 spline.... You would think the 28 would have bigger and thicker teeth than a 31 spline.

delivered the housing and drive shaft to the powder coaters today. About 3 days they will have it done... I'll post photos. So i was thinking, is it really worth the money to upgrade to the cast iron strange nodular housing over the stock iron housing. do you think i should just keep the stock housing .. will it be enough

engine blocks are cast and have alot of "texture" to the painted surface. This can be good for the paint to have a "bite" but can be a weakness hiding dirt and grease. I would get a stiff brush and really work in the degreaser, make sure you scrub over and over. i would also look at the prep chemicals that Eastwood carries to prep the cast iron to accept the high temp paint. PREP will determine how long the paint last, also a good quality paint.

the media blasters charged $50 (full rear end ) the powder coaters are charging for a satin black finish $150 (housing only)

media blasters finished up today, but to late in the day to get to the powder coaters. I really wish that this unit wasn't so pitted, but what can i say for a 40 year old piece metal. was able take apart the center section and found out that it is not a posi and is also a 28 spline axle. I really am thinking of going the 31 spline axles, a cast iron nodular center section (thank you for your suggestions), true trac, and 3.89 gears opinions?

i am also torn between the Strange aluminum center or spend the money on powder coating and rebuilding the original one i have....

So i sent off my 69 9" rear end to the media blasters. SHould be done tomorrow. I need to disassemble the drums, center section and axles before delivering to get powder coat. Satin black is the color i am going with on the housing. Don't know what color, if not the same, for the center section. I may want to go with a strange nodular aluminum. Also the drive shaft is getting blasted, dunno if i should get it powder coated as well... Can i reassemble this rear end with out the drums so i can get it back to a rolling chassis for paint?

So i have a 351w that i am attaching a T5 transmission to. ... What teeth 28oz flywheel should be used? 157 or 164

what type of stroker kit would you suggest for my 1969 351w block. I like the idea of a 427w but have heard that it is not good for high revs due to the long bottom stroke. Alot of people say the 408w is your best bet. Also what company would you suggest, ie probe, scat, eagle etc.

So i have a friend that has an 1968 falcon but doesn't drive it around due to it having drum brakes. He does not think it is safe, and will only take it out with his family once he has disk brakes installed... I know what your all thinking, and have tried to convince him other wise... so i came across a set of power disk brake setup off a 1969 cougar, do these interchange?

now that is a product i would buy!

So i actually have alot of experience with sound systems and am excited to give you some advice. I would say to run your power wire on the passenger side (since the battery is located on this side) of the car along with the blue remote turn on wire. Run the RCA cables on the drivers side. The reason you would want to do this is, the electrical current emitted by the power wires will interfere with the sound signal transmitted to the amp. You could always run the power wire down the passenger side under the car. and enter into the trunk area through the trunk floor drop off area. If you go this route please use flexible electrical tubing. also use a rubber grommet where you drill your hole that the power wire will enter the car. (over time the vibrations from everyday driving will cause the metal to cut through the power wire jacket and cause the wire to ground... not good) Use the right size power wire, no such thing as too big. 4ga will handle most applications fine. make sure you have as short of ground as possible 1-2ft. This is a DC and provides much more power and current to the amp. (remember the car is on big negative ground terminal.) Also where your attach your ground wire you should scuff the paint off the metal so you have a good metal to metal contact. (if this isn't done their maybe other problems that could arrise) mark sure your power wire fuse is as close to the batter as possible, in case there is a short the fuse will pop sooner and not be able to reach your amp. also make sure your fuse holder has all the rubber o rings and is secured to the engine compartment. do not hook up the power wire and fuse till everything is hooked up and ready to be played. (these are a few tips to follow, learned the hard way by me of course) Now to the firewall question. If you go inside through the firewall on the passengerside keep as close to the door jam area. i would think that you would have enough room to miss the heater box fresh air vent (remember to use a rubber/plastic grommet in your hole you drilled). run the power cable & remote turn on wire along the floor board /rocker connection. you can use electrical tape to help hold in place, but once the carpet is back down and kick panel, scuff plate, and rear panel is reinstalled you shouldn't need anything to keep it in place. route it around the tire wheel and back to the truck. do the same with the RCA cable from the head unit, just on the driverside. please let me know if you have any other questions that i can help you with the stereo

nothing... i think because of how cheap a new replacement windshield cost... now if it was NOS then you may get some good cash for that.

probably the most cost effective way of repair, is a replacement panel... $300 for a set of repops vs $500-600 for re covering these door (to make it look good).

i know that most dipsticks i have ever pulled out have a bit of a catch to them before they slide out. Maybe you should look at a new stick or both a new tube and stick. sure they cannot be that much at the auto parts store. Also it is only held on by one bolt and the base of the tube slides out (with a little bit of force)

so i have been thinking long and hard how i would want to undercoat my 69 fastback. I would like to do the Line-x spray in bed liner under and the outside of the aprons. after talking with the Line-x guys they said that they could spay this paint like stuff to keep the coating cleaner. What do you all think of using spray in bedliner?

Great title :) does the dip stick seem to "latch" when pushed in the sleeve? kinda like a pressure fit)

don't know much about these, but have seen them on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-70-Mustang-Headlight-Bucket-Fender-Extension-Repair-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa094583aQQitemZ320521656378QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories or you can just keep an eye out for a bucket with the tab, probably spend around $100-$150 for a good one

i originally was planning on using the factory jute padding for my roof, but have decided to go with dynamat xtreme. i don't think their is much to worry about on slipping off. if you go to the website and read about maximum temp ... i am sure it has been tested in extreme temps. (or call the company your going to use and asked them directly)

I have a A/C car as well and have thought long and hard about the direction i would want to go. MODERN!!! 1) you can have your A/C serviced anywhere 2) less drag on your engine 3) less space taken up and less weight 4) easier repairs if it breaks down on you 5) if you buy a new system you probably get a warranty (original as is) 6) better cooling If you don't have the stock A/C set up I have made templates that you can fit over a non-A/C lower dash and cut out with a dremel and fit stock vents in your car to keep a more original appearance. (I have had two a/c lowers that were rusty, and a perfect non a/c lower dash.. so i made a template for each side, cut out with a dremel and smoothed the edges with dremel grinding bit.. the stock vents fit like a glove and are in the correct locations. If you want me to send you a set of templates let me know)

i saw in a magazine an advertisement for a rack n pin set up and it stated that they used an 99-04 escort (don't quote me on the year but in that time frame). The only issue i would want to address is the escort is a lighter car than the older 69 mustangs. I have also heard of people using a chevy beretta... I think that these racks are fat and you may have clearance issues or header heat problems.

Armond~ wow that must have cost and arm and a leg for a NOS rim blow wheel !!!

that is alot of money for a repop! when you can send an original off to be restored ... complete resto for around $800