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Where are you located? ..John

Looking great Vic! I sent you a pm last week. John

Hope it works out for you...

Hello GearHeadPeter: This might be a long shot but last year i ran into the same problem locating a set and came across this fellow through a friend that was looking for a set for his 70 cougar. He had a bunch of them in stock at that time. I just checked my Paypal and sent him $137 US for it at the time. Was sent promptly and it's installed on the car now and looks great. I can't recall the brand but it is the same one that West Coast Classic Cougars sells. You might want to try him. His name is Paul Willson and the email address i sent the paypal payment to is pbw3952@verison.net Hope you have some success there. Best regards...John

Very nice Jesse!

Thanks jjstang. I figured i'd give it a shot and it works well. Regards...John

Hey aslanefe. Thanks for the response. Funny, while i was waiting for you to get back to me i was wondering what else could be done...cut / reweld the tubes or shim those C brackets..lol. But i wasn't thinking of just doing it to one bolt only on each c channel bracket. I'll certainly give that a try and report back. Cheers! John

Backed my 69 fastback out of my garage one day. Young fella walks by and says " Hey nice Camaro". Get outta here kid! John

Hello aslanefe: Sorry for the delay..Was getting a 63 Fairlane ready for sale as well as trying to sell/dispose of some of my friends stuff that recently passed away. Back at the convert today for a bit and i took a few pics. I removed the vertical run at the front. The lower bracket was pulled inward as far as it could go with the tab that holds the little nut in, touching the outer door skin. So i cut off roughly 3/8" of that tab as it protrudes past the acutal base of the run. Still not enough. I took a few pics to show the front of the glass touching and pressing in on the glass while the rear of the door and glass is still open. What mods did you do to yours? The drivers side is not as bad but certainly not right. Thanks for any help/suggestions you can provide. Regards..John

Hello aslanefe. Yes, my door glass is bolt in. Just outside blowing snow right now :( but will post some pics after if you still need them. Back outside..later! Thanks...John

Well before i post any pics i'll update. Had my bodyman friend stop by today. He was baffled why the window was tilted in so far but we did manage to make a little headway. Facing the passenger door i noticed that the lower left was sticking out a bit and therefore the upper right inward ( that's my problem area)...so we tweaked the door out a tad on the upper right which, while latched on the striker, moved the bottom left inward a tad. So gains were made there. But the problem still exists. I had the doors fitted perfectly before the car went to paint but the shop painted the car in pieces which of course is what i wanted. Ridge ...Just to see if your 'slotting' suggestion would work i removed the bolt at the bottom of the door which held the forward vertical run. With it completely removed i can only get it maybe a 1/8" of an inch outward until the square frame on the bottom of the tube hits the outside shell...so slotting it won't work on this door at least. Seeing the sliding nut is at its' maximum travel my plan is to cut off the protruding portion of the 'cage' part where the nut slides as the nut is at its' maximum in the opposite end.. Then fold down the tab..in essence shortening the slot where travel isn't required. Aslanefe...i'll post pics of the window before and after the mod. I'll keep this thread updated and thanks to everyone for their suggestions. Best regards...John

Will do aslanefe. John

Was wondering about that Ridge. Did u ever consider cutting the tube at the bottom and moving it inwards then rewelding?

Well, i have to resurrect this thread. Not for the door weatherstrip but the a pillar weatherstrip. These weatherstrips have been on backorder due to covid and they finally arrived. The weatherstrip goes from the top of the A pillar where it meets the convertible top ws. Down the door opening and fastens at the bottom. The weatherstrip is has a metal 'frame' covered by rubber with two locating tabs that go into slots in the A pillar. These do line up on this car. Most of the screws holes in the new weatherstrip do line up with the holes in the A pillar that secured the original weatherstrip. Now here's the problem? With the window rolled down or even part way down the door closes fine although a bit springy when you open it because of the new door ws. However, once the glass is rolled all the way up, upon closing the door the top of the glass comes into contact with the A pillar weatherstrip well before the door closes. I loosened the the two bolts at the bottom and this allowed me to pull the vertical slides inward which tilts the top of the glass outwards. Ford refers to this as the " tumblehome adjustment". The bottom of the vertical slides mount onto a bracket that has a square nut that slides inside a slotted cage. The sliders are adjusted inwards at their maximum but the glass still touches the weatherstrip first and putting pressure on the door seems like it is going to pop the hinges off...lots of tension. Has anyone run into this before? Everything is lubed up...correct 70 regulators...no binding ..windows go up and down smoothly....been fighting with it for couple of days. Oh...passenger door is original, drivers side is dynacorn...same problem with both. Thanks...John

These are the upper stop limit brackets. ..John

That's a great illustration Rich. Thank you so much! As you say...clarifies a lot. Regards...John

Thanks Rich: Not sure what the difference would be between B on the top left and B on the top right? I had seen this diagram on my microfiche but again wasn't sure which diagram would apply. The B on the left has a washer above and below the belt whereas the far right b diagram has one small washer under the buckle. Where the confusion lies is that i have 7 of those small washers..lol...and i'm a bit of a collector so i could have thrown extras in the box with the ones i took off...Or...i'm missing one. I think i had extras. The rear ones aren't required to pivot and therefore should only...i think ..have one washer under the buckle as the bolt does not have a shoulder. Thanks for the response! Regards..John

The rear seat belt bolts are shorter than the front bolts and have the same thick washer. The front ones have the rubber washer whereas the rear has a serrated reddish washer. Does this washer go under the big bolt and on top of the big washer or underneath the big washer. The rear short bolts ive noticed has an "A" stamped on the head whereas the fronts are stamped "B". Thanks...John

I'm doing that exact thing right now. I left it folded up over the pinch weld on this 70 convert while trial fitting the new sill plates and they will keep it down tight and secure. As above do not cut it short. Once the footwell portion settles down in place it will have to pull that extra from somewhere. Better have the extra under the sill IMO.....John

With the tanks we installed Kris we installed a quality ( if there's such a thing .lol) sending unit and had no issues whatsoever with the factory gauge. On other ones aftermarket gauges were installed and worked great and were accurate as well. ...John

Kris.. my son has a shop building custom vehicles and he shys away from the in line electric pump. Most are noisy and run hotter due to the fact that they are not submerged in fuel like the intank one. He sticks with sniper...great tech support...and in comparision with the FI Tech comes with everything you need. Fi Tech if i recall was sort of a'la'carte as far as the necessary brackets, studs etc. whereas it all came with the Holley. However that may have changed....He usually orders his exact fit tanks from Tanks Inc. ....John

Thanks Midlife. We're always searching for simple solutions to our mustang problems. Regards....John

A couple of the rubbers were missing from the window limiting stops so i went and bought a selection of vacuum caps at my local supplier. After matching the cap to the bracket i sprayed it with a little silicone and then warmed it with my heatgun. They fit quite tightly as the heat allows it to stretch and then constrict when cool. Probably will outlast the car. In the pic the original is in the middle and the ones on either side of it are the ones i did. . In my opinion its better than wrapping tape around it. Hope this helps someone who runs into this situation. John

Sorry for the delay guys...put my back out working on this beast and hobbling around in the shop today. What i found was this: I removed the glass again...none of the rollers were broken but they were certainly wobbling around on the swedged post. As the post is countersunk in the roller somewhat, i taped two small washers over the post so the post/washers would contact my steel workbench rather than the nylon roller. I then peened the other side over again with a flat punch to tighten it up...that certainly did the trick. Appreciated everyones' input for sure. Onto the next problem once my back is up to it...lol. Thanks..John

Aslanefe: sounds good. Ill pm u. Thanks..John